belizeanbus

Greetings all: I need to smog my 90 Loyale in California. Does anyone know if a CEL that comes on makes for an automatic failure. The CEL is coming on intermittantly, and I haven't yet checked the code. Thanks. belizeanbus

Greetings: My wife and I have an 06 Forester. I just noticed the other day that one of my front tires is worn badly on the inside edge. The car feels like it is perfectly well aligned. I was a bit dismayed because I have had it in the dealership for all scheduled maintenance and it's only got 20K miles. I think this is too quick to be going through tires (especially when they have been rotated). Any thoughts? To be honest, since this is our newest car, I have not done much maintenance nor poking around, so I don't know if the camber is adjustable/could be an issue.... It could, I suppose be our driving habits. We live up 30 miles of very windy mountain road. Still, it seems too soon to be replacing tires. Since I obviously have to replace at least a couple of tires, does anyone have any advice? Do you prefer the OEM tires that came on it, or have you had better experience with others? Thanks, belizeanbus

Greetings all: I am experiencing a lot of smoke off the engine block on my Loyale when I shut it down. I suspect that there is a coolant leak somewhere, but I am not sure. The engine has plenty of power. At the end of a run that gets the engine nice and warm, when I shut it down, white smoke drifts off the passenger side of the engine for a few minutes. I have noticed some light pooling of coolant in the depression next to the spark plug on the back of the passenger side. I have no idea how to trace a coolant leak. Any ideas? I have stared at the engine while it is running, and can't see anything. Likewise after I shut it down. All I can really tell is that the problem is on the passenger side. Thanks for any and all ideas. belizeanbus

As far as replacement windshields go, are there differences in quality? In other words, do all replacement windshields meet the same standards as far as safety goes? I have some nasty scratches, deep enough to catch a fingernail in, on my Forester's windshield. Since we are on the subject, does anyone have a rough idea of what the replacement should cost installed? And finally, are dealers an option for windshields? At least that way I would know the replacement was the same as the one the car came with. Thanks, belizeanbus

Greetings: I normally spend my time in the Older Generation forum, looking for tips on my EA82's. Nowadays, my wife drives a 2006 Forester. We've had it for a year and really dig it. It's a non-turbo. Most of it's time on the road is spent on steep curvy mountain roads, or out on the highway. It's basically our road-travelling car. Does anyone have any experience with the K&N Typhoon on this vehicle or engine? The thought of getting some more horsepower and maybe more mpg really appeals to me. I'd be particularly interested in how it performs on uphill runs versus simple pick-up. Thanks, belizeanbus

If it's that simple, sign me up! I think I follow the description, but if you could post a picture, that would be great. Thanks.

So, I ordered a CCR engine and finally it's in my 90 Loyale. I've heard nothing but great things about these engines, and certainly don't want to imply anything to the contrary in this thread... I'm just looking to troubleshoot. So, as I say, the engine is in, along with a new clutch, and the car runs great and feels nice. I've put probably a few hundred miles on it. The run between home on the mountain and town in the flats is 50 miles, half of it running 75-ish on a freeway, and the other half climbing from sea level to 6000 feet on a windy road. On the first run up the mountain, about half way up, I felt a very brief slight loss of power and looked out the back window and saw a HUGE cloud of white smoke. It disappeared as soon as it arrived. I regained power after like a 2 second lapse and made it the rest of the way home. But I was perplexed. A few days later, I was making the same run, and at right about the same spot, the same thing happened. Now, we novice mechanics like to make a big deal about coincidences that probably make no mechanical sense..., but yesterday, after having made a long and hard highway run of about an hour and half, I was on my way up the mountain, and it happened again. In the same exact spot as the first two times. What's different about the spot? Nothing really. It's about a 270 degree turn on a pretty hard uphill, but nothing abnormal for the road. I ride it hard there. I'm likely in 3rd, pushing 4000 rpms. So, I really want to get to the bottom of whether or not something is quirky with this engine. As I said, it otherwise feels fine. I never experince this when accelerating to get on the freeway or running at high speeds. When I first ran it after install, it made a lot of clacking noise, kind of a more Volkswagen-esque sound than I'm used to, but it quieted down as I broke the motor in. A more knowledgable acquaintance said that was to be expected. I've never really broken in a rebuilt motor before. Is this behavior normal? Should I be concerned? It doesn't bother me too much, but I hate it when there is someone behind me getting pissed because they are quite literally getting smoked by a Loyale. belizeanbus

When I did this, I got a bolt just a little bit longer (not sure how much) and was able to grab some thread. I've since put another 15-20 thousand miles on the engine and it's still holding up. If you do this, though, just be careful how much torque you lay on it. Try not to over-do it. Those bolts really don't need all that much torque. And if you are guesstimating without a torque wrench, it might be easy to ruin whtever threads you can grab onto. I contemplated the heli-coil route at the time. It' pricey, so I would recommend trying bolts first, since they are cheap. I think the heli-coil set up will put you back about $40-ish, unless you already have what you need. The next problem is going to be accessing the area to drill. Unless you have the engine out of the car, or the cam towers off, this is going to require some work. Good luck!

I've been where you're at and in my case, a longer bolt solved my problem. You might look into that before trying heli-coils. Also, be careful with the oil pump bolts. Torque only to spec (an inch-pound torque wrench might make these jobs go a bit smoother). I haven't actually stripped these myself, but I did once snap one of the bolts during an install. Good luck! belizeanbus

It hasn't been run for more than about 15 minutes total since the new gaskets were installed. How long will it put out white smoke if it is just burning off the residual?

well, I've had mutliple problems with this '92 EA82, and I seem to be taking care of them one by one. The one that still has me stumped is the white smoke issue. When I start the engine, I get white smoke out the tailpipe. I tightened down the intake manifold (which has new OEM gaskets) and the problem disappeared. That was after an afternoon of troubleshooting, when the engine had been running a bit, off and on. This weekend I fired it up after taking care of an oil leak, and it's pushing white smoke out the back again. Also, it apprears that smoke is rising out from under the hood as well. What I suspect this means is that coolant is leaking out of the manifold and spilling on the engine, where it is burning, hence the white smoke under the hood? I have no signs of overheating and I am trying to rule out a headgasket issue. Any wise words? As always, thanks, belizeanbus

Thanks for the tip. I think I'm working with two different issues here. I think the first one was solved with your advice. I re-torqued the intake manifold on that side, and I am no longer burning coolant. However, what is leaking from below is definitely oil. Looks upon further inspection that it is coming from the valve cover gasket. All five bolts are properly torqued. I wonder what the problem is. I tried tightening them a bit beyond spec, and that had no effect. Basically, there is a steady stream of oil once the engine gets running. Comes out of the back, below the disty, and collects on the sheet metal plate that separates the head from the axle. I'd say it would put out a good quart every couple of minutes if left to run. When the engine is shut off, it continues to drain for about 30 seconds. Is there that much oil going under that valve covers? I wonder if I am not missing the source of the oil. Does anyone use these fluorescent additives for tracing oil leaks with any success? I think my next step is to replace the valve cover gasket, but this one was a new OEM, so I am still a bit confused... belizeanbus

Thanks for all of the suggestions... Not sure if I should post a new thread, but it's all related, so I'll try here first. Does anyone have any idea what the issue I am up against is (the reason for wanting to get at the heads while in the car in the first place)? When I fire this thing up and let her run a bit, she starts billowing white smoke (coolant, I surmise), and there is a very obvious leak coming from the driver side cylinder head. My first guess was that the small o-ring was not doing its job. I think it is VERY unlikely that I forgot it when reassembling, but I guess it could always have fallen un-noticed when I was putting it all together. Next guess: the head is not properly torqued, and I can just go in that far, and re-torque them. I can't think of any other explanation, and I'm not even sure that the two symptoms are related. Any educated guesses? thanks, belizeanbus

Is it possible to get the driver's side head off without removing the EA82 from my Loyale? It looks cramped on that side. I haven't taken much time for troubleshooting yet, but my newly installed motor was pouring oil in a steady stream from that side, and I wonder if that little o-ring between the head and the cam tower didn't slip out during reassambly...If I get that far, and can't find the problem, I may have to take off the head for a new gasket (it's also blowing white smoke after it's been running a bit)... Any suggestions? belizeanbus