belizeanbus

Greetings all: I need to smog my 90 Loyale in California. Does anyone know if a CEL that comes on makes for an automatic failure. The CEL is coming on intermittantly, and I haven't yet checked the code. Thanks. belizeanbus

Greetings: My wife and I have an 06 Forester. I just noticed the other day that one of my front tires is worn badly on the inside edge. The car feels like it is perfectly well aligned. I was a bit dismayed because I have had it in the dealership for all scheduled maintenance and it's only got 20K miles. I think this is too quick to be going through tires (especially when they have been rotated). Any thoughts? To be honest, since this is our newest car, I have not done much maintenance nor poking around, so I don't know if the camber is adjustable/could be an issue.... It could, I suppose be our driving habits. We live up 30 miles of very windy mountain road. Still, it seems too soon to be replacing tires. Since I obviously have to replace at least a couple of tires, does anyone have any advice? Do you prefer the OEM tires that came on it, or have you had better experience with others? Thanks, belizeanbus

Greetings all: I am experiencing a lot of smoke off the engine block on my Loyale when I shut it down. I suspect that there is a coolant leak somewhere, but I am not sure. The engine has plenty of power. At the end of a run that gets the engine nice and warm, when I shut it down, white smoke drifts off the passenger side of the engine for a few minutes. I have noticed some light pooling of coolant in the depression next to the spark plug on the back of the passenger side. I have no idea how to trace a coolant leak. Any ideas? I have stared at the engine while it is running, and can't see anything. Likewise after I shut it down. All I can really tell is that the problem is on the passenger side. Thanks for any and all ideas. belizeanbus

As far as replacement windshields go, are there differences in quality? In other words, do all replacement windshields meet the same standards as far as safety goes? I have some nasty scratches, deep enough to catch a fingernail in, on my Forester's windshield. Since we are on the subject, does anyone have a rough idea of what the replacement should cost installed? And finally, are dealers an option for windshields? At least that way I would know the replacement was the same as the one the car came with. Thanks, belizeanbus

Greetings: I normally spend my time in the Older Generation forum, looking for tips on my EA82's. Nowadays, my wife drives a 2006 Forester. We've had it for a year and really dig it. It's a non-turbo. Most of it's time on the road is spent on steep curvy mountain roads, or out on the highway. It's basically our road-travelling car. Does anyone have any experience with the K&N Typhoon on this vehicle or engine? The thought of getting some more horsepower and maybe more mpg really appeals to me. I'd be particularly interested in how it performs on uphill runs versus simple pick-up. Thanks, belizeanbus

If it's that simple, sign me up! I think I follow the description, but if you could post a picture, that would be great. Thanks.

So, I ordered a CCR engine and finally it's in my 90 Loyale. I've heard nothing but great things about these engines, and certainly don't want to imply anything to the contrary in this thread... I'm just looking to troubleshoot. So, as I say, the engine is in, along with a new clutch, and the car runs great and feels nice. I've put probably a few hundred miles on it. The run between home on the mountain and town in the flats is 50 miles, half of it running 75-ish on a freeway, and the other half climbing from sea level to 6000 feet on a windy road. On the first run up the mountain, about half way up, I felt a very brief slight loss of power and looked out the back window and saw a HUGE cloud of white smoke. It disappeared as soon as it arrived. I regained power after like a 2 second lapse and made it the rest of the way home. But I was perplexed. A few days later, I was making the same run, and at right about the same spot, the same thing happened. Now, we novice mechanics like to make a big deal about coincidences that probably make no mechanical sense..., but yesterday, after having made a long and hard highway run of about an hour and half, I was on my way up the mountain, and it happened again. In the same exact spot as the first two times. What's different about the spot? Nothing really. It's about a 270 degree turn on a pretty hard uphill, but nothing abnormal for the road. I ride it hard there. I'm likely in 3rd, pushing 4000 rpms. So, I really want to get to the bottom of whether or not something is quirky with this engine. As I said, it otherwise feels fine. I never experince this when accelerating to get on the freeway or running at high speeds. When I first ran it after install, it made a lot of clacking noise, kind of a more Volkswagen-esque sound than I'm used to, but it quieted down as I broke the motor in. A more knowledgable acquaintance said that was to be expected. I've never really broken in a rebuilt motor before. Is this behavior normal? Should I be concerned? It doesn't bother me too much, but I hate it when there is someone behind me getting pissed because they are quite literally getting smoked by a Loyale. belizeanbus

When I did this, I got a bolt just a little bit longer (not sure how much) and was able to grab some thread. I've since put another 15-20 thousand miles on the engine and it's still holding up. If you do this, though, just be careful how much torque you lay on it. Try not to over-do it. Those bolts really don't need all that much torque. And if you are guesstimating without a torque wrench, it might be easy to ruin whtever threads you can grab onto. I contemplated the heli-coil route at the time. It' pricey, so I would recommend trying bolts first, since they are cheap. I think the heli-coil set up will put you back about $40-ish, unless you already have what you need. The next problem is going to be accessing the area to drill. Unless you have the engine out of the car, or the cam towers off, this is going to require some work. Good luck!

I've been where you're at and in my case, a longer bolt solved my problem. You might look into that before trying heli-coils. Also, be careful with the oil pump bolts. Torque only to spec (an inch-pound torque wrench might make these jobs go a bit smoother). I haven't actually stripped these myself, but I did once snap one of the bolts during an install. Good luck! belizeanbus

It hasn't been run for more than about 15 minutes total since the new gaskets were installed. How long will it put out white smoke if it is just burning off the residual?

well, I've had mutliple problems with this '92 EA82, and I seem to be taking care of them one by one. The one that still has me stumped is the white smoke issue. When I start the engine, I get white smoke out the tailpipe. I tightened down the intake manifold (which has new OEM gaskets) and the problem disappeared. That was after an afternoon of troubleshooting, when the engine had been running a bit, off and on. This weekend I fired it up after taking care of an oil leak, and it's pushing white smoke out the back again. Also, it apprears that smoke is rising out from under the hood as well. What I suspect this means is that coolant is leaking out of the manifold and spilling on the engine, where it is burning, hence the white smoke under the hood? I have no signs of overheating and I am trying to rule out a headgasket issue. Any wise words? As always, thanks, belizeanbus

Thanks for the tip. I think I'm working with two different issues here. I think the first one was solved with your advice. I re-torqued the intake manifold on that side, and I am no longer burning coolant. However, what is leaking from below is definitely oil. Looks upon further inspection that it is coming from the valve cover gasket. All five bolts are properly torqued. I wonder what the problem is. I tried tightening them a bit beyond spec, and that had no effect. Basically, there is a steady stream of oil once the engine gets running. Comes out of the back, below the disty, and collects on the sheet metal plate that separates the head from the axle. I'd say it would put out a good quart every couple of minutes if left to run. When the engine is shut off, it continues to drain for about 30 seconds. Is there that much oil going under that valve covers? I wonder if I am not missing the source of the oil. Does anyone use these fluorescent additives for tracing oil leaks with any success? I think my next step is to replace the valve cover gasket, but this one was a new OEM, so I am still a bit confused... belizeanbus

Thanks for all of the suggestions... Not sure if I should post a new thread, but it's all related, so I'll try here first. Does anyone have any idea what the issue I am up against is (the reason for wanting to get at the heads while in the car in the first place)? When I fire this thing up and let her run a bit, she starts billowing white smoke (coolant, I surmise), and there is a very obvious leak coming from the driver side cylinder head. My first guess was that the small o-ring was not doing its job. I think it is VERY unlikely that I forgot it when reassembling, but I guess it could always have fallen un-noticed when I was putting it all together. Next guess: the head is not properly torqued, and I can just go in that far, and re-torque them. I can't think of any other explanation, and I'm not even sure that the two symptoms are related. Any educated guesses? thanks, belizeanbus

Is it possible to get the driver's side head off without removing the EA82 from my Loyale? It looks cramped on that side. I haven't taken much time for troubleshooting yet, but my newly installed motor was pouring oil in a steady stream from that side, and I wonder if that little o-ring between the head and the cam tower didn't slip out during reassambly...If I get that far, and can't find the problem, I may have to take off the head for a new gasket (it's also blowing white smoke after it's been running a bit)... Any suggestions? belizeanbus

So, I'm looking for an opinion about clutches. I am installing a CCR engine from Colorado in my wife's beloved Loyale. We are trying to go top-notch, so we can have a good solid runner for many years to come. My dealer wants $310 for the complete clutch kit. I know lots of folks have an aversion toward dealers, but I actually have a very good relationship with the folks at my local place, and the few extra dollars I give them always seem to be well worth it. So, I looked at the PartsBin.com and found a kit for $180 amd it ways Japan(OEM). First question, is it really the same clutch that the Soob dealer is selling (since it is advertised as OEM)? Next, assuming I don't want to pull the engine to do another clutch job anytime soon, would you all recommend just paying the extra hundred bucks, or is the cheaper one of equal quality? The advice is much appreciated belizeanbus

More news on the rebuild that seems to never end. EA82: I removed it, replaced head gaskets, and basically everything else. Returned it to the car and it wouldn't start. Traced the problem to a dead fuel pump, and this weekend finally got her to fire up. Now,... a new problem. She runs fine for a few minutes then starts putting out clouds of white smoke... I searched in the internet and people say that she's must be burning oil (whitish-blue smoke - mine seems white), so I figured maybe she is burning off the assembly lube etc. Then I was walking around the vehicle looking for a problem and there is a steady stream of oil coming down the driver's side, looks to be underneath the disty, maybe the valve cover gasket... Any ideas... I replaced all seals/gaskets with OEM and torqued everything to spec. But this doesn't look good. Please send your thoughts. In the meantime, I'll be hoping I don't have to pull that engien again. belizeanbus

Bump. I’m beginning to think my problem here is rare and cryptic. Bummer. How about helping me with my logic??? This is the first time I do any real troubleshooting, and in my attempt to rationalize the car, I may be overlooking something. Last weekend, I went through and completely redid the timing belts and the disty installation to make sure there was nothing off. I get it to start for a few seconds when there is gas poured into the injector. I am assuming because of this that all of the connections I made in reinstalling the engine are fine. Because it runs. I could be wrong though… I get a clicking from the injector with the green test connectors connected and the key on. I get no sound at the fuel pump. I am assuming that my problem is that the fuel pump is not moving the fuel to the injector. I have no codes and no blown fuses. Could the Engine Control Unit be bad? Is there a way to reset it…something like inserting a paperclip??? I also detect no 12V surge at the fuel pump harness with the green connectors hooked up and the key on. Has anyone ever had to trace this back to its source? What is the source? How do I get there? I’ve got some sun meting the snow, so I may be able to work on it this weekend. Your advice is appreciated. belizeanbus

With the green test connectors connected, and the key 'on,' I get the clicking under the hood (presumably the injector???) at about a 4 second interval. I get no noise from the fuel pump. When I disconnect the harness at the pump and attach the multimeter, I get no voltage surge coinciding with the pulses I hear under the hood. The reading on the meter jumps around a bit, but stays close to zero, and this is not timed with the pulsing under the hood... just random. This is the only multimeter I've ever used, and it's a craftman, so I figure I can trust the results. Any ideas where to go next??? A bit more info: I had problems with the ECU once before. It was in another Soob, and that car kept throwing the CEL, and since the problem wouldn't go away, I swapped brains between the two cars and they both ran fine. This car has the problematic one, though. I didn't think this could be the problem, since I can get it to run with fuel in the injector. Could the ECU be not sending a signal to the fuel pump? Anyone know? It also throws a 6 code, which hoozie or someone else on the board (can't remember off hand) told me was normal. As for Miles suggestion, if I'm getting no power to the pump, I assume the ground is not the issue, right? Well, I'll try anything at this point. How do i do it? Jam a wire into the harness, and tie it off on the frame? Thanks all, belizeanbus

Hi all... I'm still trying to diagnose an EA82 SPFI install that I cannot get to run. I finally found a day to devote to it, and I'm having no luck. I poured fresh gas in the injector, and jumped it off my truck becuase the battery is getting a little weak from sitting. It turns over and over and then finally fires up. I can rev it all I want for about 4 seconds and it actually sounds like a functional engine. then the gas is gone and she dies. So, I know I have spark and of course air. So, I'm thinking about my fuel system. I didn't disconnect any of the fuel lines during the engine swap. So, I took a multi meter to the electrical harness at the fuel pump. I have been trying to hear if that thing makes any noise when I turn on the ignition, but it makes not a sound. So, I'm checking to see if it is getting juice. I don't know much about using the meters, so I turn it to DC Voltage, and I checked it across the poles of the battery just to make sure I was in the right mode. Gave me a reading of about 13.3. I guess that's about right. I put the little tester needles in the harness, and turn on the ignition and I get nothing to go on. The meter is all over the place. Goes from 6 to 2 to -2 and back again. Won't stay still, but it certainly doesn't go to 12, which is what I was looking for. Anyone have ideas? By the way, if you can tell me what to check, please give me a little description of where to find it, my lingo is not so good, especieally with all of these fusible links and various harnesses. Thanks as always belizeanbus

Well, I'm bringing this one back to the top of the list, if for no other reason than to say that it does not appear to be the disty. I found a supposedly good used one at a JY, and installed it. Same problem as before. I don't have much time to spend on the car these days, so any leads the experts out there can give would be awesome. To recap, I rebuilt the EA82 down to the headgaskets, put a new clutch and reinstalled, and since then it has not moved. I've rechecked all my electrical connections and they seem in place. I checked for spark. I have spark. It looks to me that there is a problem getting fuel into the system. I was hoping that if the crank angle sensor was bad, it would be what was interrupting the signal to the fuel pump and not allowing for fuel to flow. I think it's a fuel problem because when I pour gas in the injector I can get it to run for, oh, about 3 seconds. Now... If anyone has any magical tests/cures, I'm certainly not in love with this fuel system theory, so by all means, share your wisdom. If not, what would you do if your were hunting for the culprit int he fuel system? Check the electrical harness first? Should be 12V with ignition on or with engine turning over? Intermittent, or steady? My logic is troubling me... although I think the fuel system in the culprit, I don't really see how removing the engine would trigger a perfectly functioning system to go down. At any rate, the car's been sitting for almost 6 mos. now and I'm about to throw in the towel on this one. If anyone is in the area and can lend a hand, I'll certainly buy the beer. Thanks, belizeanbus

Wow... thanks everyone for the good discussion... I have a few things to check once the weekend comes around before going for a new disty. I want to make sure that the fuel pump is functioning properly, double check timing and all electrical connections. Then I'll start looking for a replacement distributor. Bummer is, I have one in another Soob, but it's parked at my folk's place, a few hundred miles away. I'll likely post on the marketplace in case anyone has a functional extra or is parting out a car... Thanks again for the good discussion... I'll be getting back to it once the wekend rolls around. belizeanbus

A question about the functioning of the crank angle sensor… I got this from a previous thread: “The disty is the crank angle sensor which tells the ECU that the engine is turning, which cyl is firing and what RPM. So we know the ECU is getting in put from the crank angle sensor because it is out putting to the coil.” My issue is a rebuilt engine I just installed and cannot get to start. Actually, I installed it about a month ago and then got tied up with some home repairs and the holidays and now I’m ready to take another stab at it. It has been suggested that the crank angle sensor may have gone bad/gotten corroded during the downtime of the engine rebuild, so my questions involve how to troubleshoot this thing… If the crank angle sensor is not communicating with the ECU, will it throw a code? Or will it throw a code only if you can get the engine to run? Will the fuel pump work if the crank angle sensor is not functioning? Will you have spark if the crank angle sensor is not functioning? If I understand the previous thread right, no CAS = no coil = no spark??? FYI, it’s a 1992 EA82 SPFI non-turbo. If I recall where I left off, I had spark and could get it to run for a few seconds with fuel poured into the injector. I’m getting no codes telling me anything is wrong… It turns over fine, belts are not broken… that’s the background. Now how do I rule the disty out as the problem? thanks

Just need to clarify that my disty is being inserted properly... Manual says (in a nutshell) find TDC on #1 cylinder, then go 8 degrees BTDC, then line up the marks on the disty and insert it. My question is this: when inserting it, it rotates backward a bit owing to the slant of the gear. So... do I advance it a bit, so the marks line up after it is in. Or do I line it up and then insert it, so that by rotating backward it would be properly aligned? Also,...will misalignment cause the engine to run rough, or to not run at all? thanks.

Okay... rechecked the fusable links... this time I get twelve volts on both of them, but the other side is not zero... more like 3. This is with the key off. Does this mean anything??? Further, is there a way to check the disty in relation to the injector...? Spark is fine, and as I said, I connected a test light to the wire harness that connects directly to the injector but got no light from either post while cranking the engine... The car never had a problem before the rebuild (aside from gushing out oil). Never a dead battery...nothing. It still turns over fine, so it seems that the alt and the starter must be okay...? But something is certainly wrong. It'll run briefly if I pour fuel in the injector (for about 3 seconds...) Thanks for all the time and thoughts... you all have helped immensely on numerous occasions...!

maybe I'm on to something here. There are 2 green fusible links in the box attached to the coolant reservoir. I tested them with a voltmeter and got some strange numbers that do not mean much to me... here goes: On the front one, with the ground from voltmeter touching metal, I get 7V and 6V respectively off the two posts. When I measure between the two posts I get 7.8. The back one (closest to driver), I get 5 and 4 (roughly), when ground, and when measuring between it shoots up to 122. That doesn't mean much to me, but in the process I saw a sign of life... when the key is in the on position (not cranking), there is no clicking from the injector. However, if I disconnect the front green fusible link, it begins to click. Disconnecting the second does not have the same effect. Does this mean anything to anyone???