belizeanbus

What does code 6 mean??? My engine control unit on my loyale flashes six short. I checked the manual, and six is not listed as a code. Is this meaningless, or is it telling me something? Oh, it's an ea82, spfi, 1992, manual. belizeanbus

Did you replace the entire distributor, or just the rotor? Disty's are pricey!!! belizeanbus

Thanks for the advice. I tested the resistance on the injector and it is within the bounds set out by the manual. I then tested the other end with a test light, and it does not light up on either of the two sides (ports, leads, wires, I don't know what you call them) when cranking the engine... so I gess this means that there is no power getting to the injector. The wire goes into a great big wire harness... from there I don't know where it goes. All fuses under the dash are good. Any other thoughts...? belizeanbus

I don't know much about electricity. let me just begin by getting that right out in the open. I've fumbled my way threw a few problems already with a multimeter i picked up awhile back. I've been troubleshooting a loyale, ea82 spfi that won't start after putting in a rebuilt engine. some might recognize my plight from the other threads on the topic. I've got spark. I don't have gas though, and I'm not sure why. When I turn the key to the on position, I don't hear the hum of the fuel pump. When I crank it, my meter reads 8.8-9.0 Volts. Is this what should be going to the pump? I was thinking it should be 12. What could cause this? belizeanbus

Well,... so far I get no noise out of that fuel pump. Tried connecting the green connectors under the hood. Tried listening with the key truned on. Nothing. So, I disconnected the connection at the fuel pump and tested it with a multimeter both with the key on and with someone inside turning it over. Nothing shows up on the meter. So,... I've checked the fuses. they're all good. What is this about a fusible link under the passenger side dash? What else is there for me to check out? thanks fo all the advice.

Sounds strange, but when I disconnected the fuel pump and tried starting it with some gas poured in the intake, it fired up and ran okay for a few seconds - better than when I did it with the pump connected. Maybe it was just coincidental. I checked the current at the fuel pump with a multimeter (ignition on, disconnected the connection and tested) and found no juice getting though... Hmmm... Ideas?

Yes, it's SPFI. Tried this trick, and the engine almost fires up... get a lot further than just turning the key at any rate. So, I assume the problem is fuel delivery. Any advice on where to go from here? I've checked all fuses, and the fuel pump is indeed connected. Chilton's says to tun on the ignition and listen for the pump to make some noise. I don't know how audible this should be, but I don't hear anything. does this mean it's time for a new pump? Thing is, the car ran fine before the rebuild.... thanks for any advice...

I just put a rebuilt EA82 into my Loyale and can't get it to fire up. I've checked the spark, and double-checked the timing. All seems to be in order. I want to check that it's getting fuel, but I don't know how to decipher the injector. Seems from other postings on the board that the first step is to put some fuel directly into the injector and see if it will start. Where? Do you have to depressurize the system first? Is this just a matter of pulling off the fuel line and putting fuel there? Sorry if this is a little basic. When I replaced the engine, I avoided fooling with the injection system for a reason (I have no idea how to work with it....-I guess this is my chance to learn. thanks belizeanbus

NoahDL88: Thanks for the offer. Don't feel the need to interupt the family gathering just to help a board member...I'm sure I'll get this thing figured out one way or another. But, if you feel like getting away, the assistance would definitely help... We're actually having a bit of get together here in the mountains saturday evening,... you're more than welcome any time. PM me if you'd like. belizeanbus

Negative... Sorry if this is a lame question, but, how??? And what does it mean if I am not? Bad coil? Bad distributor?

I was hoping there would be no hangups after coming this far. I rebuilt an EA82 and put it in my Loyale... I went to start it, and it just turned over and over. My first assumption was...timing problem. So, I went over that again and again. I 've aligned the distributor with the #1 cylinder at 0 TDC, and I've tried it at 8 BTDC at the suggestion of the board. I've tried it again and again and I'm certain I've got the firing order correct. No dice. I'm fairly certain it's not the timing belts, because I've done that job multiple times. I think I've got it down. The engine turns over with no problem, so the only thing I can think of is that it is not getting gas. I don't see why it wouldn't since I left the injection system intact. Anyone have any ideas? I'm anxious to get this thing on the road... belizeanbus

How do you know where the #1 wire goes on the distributor cap? I realize that it's best to not remove everything all at once, but when I was pulling the engine, the wires got hung up and I had to repidly remove them. That leaves me with no wires attached, and so no reference for where to attach the wires now. belizeanbus

Anyone have a simple method for installing the distributor in an EA82, setting the timing, and getting all the wires lined up correctly? I just installed my rebuilt engine and followed the Chilton's instructions. I went to fire it up, and it just turned over and over. My assumption is that the timing is not right (or the spark plug wires are out of sequence). I checked the way the wires are laid out on my other loyale, and it's different from what the chilton's says. This was my approach. Remove #1 spark plug, and turn the crank until feeling air escape. Then proceed to "0" as marked on the flywheel (TDC). Next, I lined up the marks on the shaft of the disty and installed it. Finally, I wired the spark plugs from the disty as the book said. This seems correct... please let me know if I've missed anything. Basically, what was different on my other loyale is that the spark plug wires were all one off... in other words where the book says #1 should go is actually one ahead (assuming clockwise rotation looking down) from the way it's wired on the other soob... So is there any way to know for sure where the #1 wire goes, and how to proceed after that? Thanks all, belizeanbus

Another day...maybe someone has another suggestion...? I checked the alignment with the clutch alignment tool. It's fine. Checked the bearing against the old one. Same size. I put the engine back in this morning... same thing. Gets about 3/4 inch from joining and then stops. Nothing I do can get it together. The motor mounts even make it into place, and if I lower the tranny and the engine, they stay apart. Looks like the engine is pushing the tranny back. And it seems like it's the gear that comes forward out of the tranny. because when I put a bolt through one side and tighten a bit, the other side separates more. I was thinking the teeth of the gear weren't lining up properly. I can't think of anything else that could be blocking that thing. I'll be taking it out to check it one more time. Any ideas? belizeanbus

Thanks for the quick responses... I did use the alignment tool, so I figure everything is lined up. I'm going to give it another shot tomorrow. Something wasn't right today, it was hanging up. What about aligning the teeth of the gear from the tranny with the engine??? Is that ever a problem? belizeanbus

Okay,...this one might be another dumb one, but here goes... I'm trying to install a rebuilt ea82 into a loyale, manual transmission. I took it out, so I fugured I could get it back in. The manual, and every place else I've checked seem to make it sound pretty simple... jack up the tranny a bit, angle the engine slightly as its dangling from the hoist, and they should slide right together. No such luck. I spent an hour or so, trying to line things up. I'd get the bolts through the holes on the tranny part way, and then the whole thing would stop, as though something were blocking it. I figured the teeth weren't lining up as they went into the engine, so I'd back it away, twist the crank a bit, then go for it again. Nope. The closest it will get is about three quarters of an inch from joining up with the tranny. I tried all manner of wiggling, shaking, shoving, the engine, and it won't go. I ended up taking it back out and setting it on the ground, so I could have a go at it tomorrow. My question... are there any tricks out there to get these things to line up? Should they really go together easily of they are properly lined up? I was almost thinking of just trying to get the studs through far enough to then start cranking them down to bring the engine and the tranny together, but that's seemed a little extreme... belizeanbus

Trying to get a new clutch installed on my loyale. The clutch came as a kit, along with the throwout bearing. Before this rebuild began, the loy had 210K miles, and it would make a hell fo a noise from the clutch when you put the pedal in, a symptom that I narrowed down as a bad throwout bearing. So, I take off the old bearing, and there is only one clip holding it on, a bent heavy guage wire sort of thing. Apparently there should be two, though I don't know if this had anything to do with the noise I was experiencing. My question is, should they be made of wire, because the photo in chilton's looks like a more sturdy. Or is this some sort of home made jimmy rig? Next, where do I get replacements. My clutch kit did not include them. belizeanbus

'Evening... I was looking for the amount of torque to lay onto the oil pump on my EA82 when attaching it to the block. I found that my chilton's simply says to "intall it onto the cylinder block." No specs included. In the section on 2.5L, it says 56 in. lbs. is the way to go. Does anyone know the proper amount to torque this thing down? or should I go with 56? Thanks belizeanbus

I hope this description makes sense... I was cleaning the grime and left over head gasket material from one of the heads on my EA82. I was getting some of the charred carbon out of the depression where the valves are seated and then I noticed a little crack connecting the two valves. Both cylinders have them. I already torqued the other head to the engine, but I don't recall them being the same way. Is this line normal? In other words, is it where the metal was cast or something like that? Or is this the kind of crack that should tell me to shop around for a new head? I don't know all that much about engines, but I did build a VW engine some time ago that had a cracked head, and the crack went all the way through. In this case, there is just a line visible between the vavle seats and the rest of the head seems solid. thanks in advance belizeanbus

Greetings all... So, how do I get to the front main seal on my EA82 (1992)? I have the front of the engine stripped down. I am at the gear-like pulleys that come off the front of the crankshaft. They do not want to come off when I pull them, and it looks as though there is a pin or something down the shaft that holds these on. Do I need a special tool here, or should these pull off? I assume that once they are off, it's just a matter of jimmying out the seal with a screwdriver or something and replacing it. Thanks for the help. belizeanbus

Thanks for all the responses... What is the general concensus on retorquing the bolts that hold the heads on? My Chilton's doesn't mention it. Is this standard proceedure? I would assume that the bolts are somewhat accessible with the engine in the car...belizeanbus

So my 1992 EA82 is about to have its cam towers (if that is indeed the appropriate term for them) reattached. The heads are on and torqued to spec. I've been waiting on that little o-ring that's on the inside of the cam tower, and now that it has arrived, I can proceed. Here's my concerns... I was told previously to seal them to the heads with anaerobic sealant, and that there is no gasket. On the edge of the cam tower that joins with the head, there is an indentation running all the way around the edge, parallel to the edge. It was filled with a rubbery substance, which I removed. I assume since there is no gasket that this is a remnant of the anaerobic sealant. So... is this where I apply this sealant? I ask because after I did a not so perfect job on an oil pan gasket last year, my follow up questions led to a discussion of just how much RTV was necessary. I guess if I had had a better understanding at that point, I might have a few less drops of oil on my driveway. So...the anaerobic sealant...it goes in the little chasm, or not? How much is enough? Next... I believe that those four little teeter-totter type things that fell out when I removed the cam tower are caller rockers???? I read a couple of forums saying to, on the one hand, grease them well, and on the other, coat them with vasoline to get them to stay in place long enough for installation. What's the proceedure here...? Do I grease, then vasoline? Is vasoline good enough. Should I coat the cam in oil before putting on the valve cover gaskets? As always, thanks for having patience with the novices. This thing will be back on the road soon. I can feel it. belizeanbus

Well, I'm no expert, so let's wait till some of the gurus reply... What I can say is that my 92 loyale did a very similar thing a few months back. My problem was a broken passenger side timing belt. If you have any more details, they would probably be helpful. Mine went like this: Driving down the highway, I noticed a loss of power. When I got to an exit and came to a complete stop, it died. It would turn over, and sounded like it wanted to start, but couldn't. Someone here suggested I check the t-belt, and it was right on. It's a relatively simple repair. I'm no mechanic, but I replaced it with the car parked on an empty side street in a couple of hours. Hope this helps.

I'm midway through an EA82 rebuild. Let me note that it's my first, so excuse any dumb questions. I have the heads off. The area where the head gasket had contact is filthy. On both the head side, and the block side. I've been working the head all afternoon with degreaser and a wire brush. Does this have to be clean down to the shiny metal to install the new gasket? If so, it's a chore. Next question: the walls of the cylinders (down to where the pistons are, which is as far as I can see) are caked with what I would call a thick grimey oily substance. Is this normal, or a sign of problems? The engine had 210K. should I just clean is out with a rag? Lastly, (for now...) is there a gasket that separates the head and the cam tower? I don't know if these are just degraded, but it looks like there was only some gooey gasket-type material in between...the kind of thing that comes in a tube... Oh, and one more thing, when it comes to the oil pan and the water pump, the manual lists some torque specs that are quite low...like 4 and 7 lb-ft. My wrench doesn't go that low. I was at a tool store recently and didn't see one either. Do you all do these to spec, or just sort of tighten them till they are tight? Thanks again... with any luck we'll be good as new before the snows arrive. belizeanbus

Hello all... this is the next of many posts as I work my way through an EA82 rebuild. Anyone who recognizes this from the other posts might be relieved to know, as I am, that I got the stripped bolts out of the cams and the pulleys are off and I'm ready to get at the head gaskets et cetera. What's hanging me up now is that I have removed all of the bolts holding on the water pump and the thing won't budge. Like it's cemented into place. I have a new one to relace it with, but, man, even with leverage, if I grab ahold of the end of that thing and try pulling in any direction, it just won't move. My next idea would be to try to wedge somthing in where the seal is and pry it. Logic tells me that's not such a good idea. I need the next one to seal well too. I there a trick to this? belizeanbus