belizeanbus

Hello all... I'm working my way through my first subaru overhaul... (EA82, 1992 Loyale non-turbo). Those of you who have seen the other posts of mine mine might know I'm struggling still with a stubborn cam pulley bolt, but I'm confident that I'll overcome the obstacle on my next day off and be ready to replace the HEAD GASKETS. My question is this: do the head gaskets go on bare, and just get torqued into place, or are they supposed to be coated with some kind of sealant (rtv?)? Next in line would be the valve cover gaskets and the grommets that accompany them. What do these need to be coated with? Thanks for helping a novice fumble through this. belizeanbus

Thanks for the advice: The bolt out tool is great. works wonders... highly recommended, given that a lot of my work on old Soob's has involved bolts that have the consistency of butter. I got all the bolts out but one. It's stripped too badly for the Bolt-Outs to grab onto. Can't get them with vice grips either. Even tried JBWelding an old socket onto the bolt, but it wouldn't hold. So, I was thinking... I've seen in the auto parts store a tool to get a bolt out if the head has broken off. It involves drilling into the center of it, and then inserting a drill bit like thing that grabs it from the inside. Anyone know what I'm talking about? Had any luck using this thing? I still have hopes of getting this thing apart, so I don't want to do anything that is going to damage the cam. But I figured that if I could drill right into the stripped head, it just might work...? Thanks all, belizeanbus

I've got my EA82 resting on a bucket in my driveway. I'm trying to replace the cam seals. I started with removing the three bolts that hold on the cam pulleys. I got one of the bolts off of each side. The heads of the bolts stripped on the other two. Even after a generous wash-down with penetrating lubricant. My question: What now? How can I get those last two off and replace them and get my soob back on the road? Belizeanbus

Hi all. I'm beginning my first EA82 overhaul. I have never in my life used an engine hoist, but right now I have one in my driveway and I'm bit perplexed about what comes next. So, the engine is about as dismantled as it could be... all of the injection gear has been removed. It's basically the block, heads, water pump and oil pump. I was looking for a good place to hook the hoist, and for some reason expected there to be something obvious. But I don't see it. The hoist I have to use for this job doesn't have one of those balancing things I've seen at the auto parts store... it just has a chain and a single hook. It seems the hook is not going to grab the engine anywhere. Does one just get some heavy chain and wrap it under the engine, hook it to the hoist and lift? Or is there a method to this, involving proper places to hook into in order to avoid damaging the engine? Thanks belizeanbus

Thanks for the info. I checked the suggested site and the engine removal article is not there...(at least I can't seem to find it). So, I figured I'd bring this one back to the top to see if any one online today has the engine removal article saved. I know how to approach it, since I've done and oil pan gasket with the engine in the car, but a step by step for disconnecting hoses and electrical is what I'm after. Anyone have that article? Thanks, belizeanbus

hello out there in subaru land... a couple of questions regarding a big project that will begin tomorrow: 1. Does anyone have a link to the disappeared USRM engine (EA82) removal article? I recall seeing it and thinking it was straightforward and would be an immense help, but I never copied it,...just figured it would always be there. Now, I'm looking at my Chilton's, and it just doesn't have that same effect. If anyone has it saved in their computer somewhere and could email it to me, that would be awesome as well. 2. The planned proceedure will be a reseal on an EA82 from a 92 loyale. I had to take the radiator out last weekend and then I just figured that while I'm at it, I may as well do my best to rejuvenate the engine (which has 210,000 miles on it). Anyway, on a couple of occasions recently when my wife was driving it, after a long haul...say an hour on the highway, it would cut out on her. That's to say, when she stopped somewhere, it would either die, or when she went to start again after a short break, it just wouldn't stay running. Give it an hour, and it would start as good as new. She also mentioned that the last few times she drove it, it was pretty gutless off the line with the A/C on. Fine with it off. Any ideas what the cause might be? While I'm doing my best to make her like new, I figure I should cover all my bases. Thanks.

Thanks all... another success with your help... I drove her hard on mountain roads for about a half an hour and she didn't even start to heat up.

Okay...almost there... I have two cars with their radiators removed. 90 and 92 loyales, non-turbo... The 90 is the one running hot. It's radiator is pretty banged up. I see that on the 92 (which has A/C), there is a radiator looking thing in front of the actual radiator (excuse my ignorance here...looks like a radiator, but without cap and hoses running to it...closer to the bumper). The 90 doesn't have it. Since I have two nearly identical cars, it's a great learning tool, but I get a little nervous when I discover parts that one has and the other doesn't... You see my dilemma... before I continue with the radiator swap, what is this thing, and should the 90 (which has no A/C) have one? thanks again...

Both are manuals, though I have my suspicions based upon some of the many surprises I've found by working on the 90 that it is a composite of parts from several vehicles. Thanks for the info...

Hello all... I recently posted regarding my 90 loyale getting a little too hot when she's working hard, and the concensus was that I might need a radiator replacement. I have another Loyale...a 92, so I figured before dipping into my wallet, I'd just swap the radiators and see if that solved the problem. I was just getting started and I noticed a difference between the radiators (I figured they'd be identical). The 90 (the one that likes to run hot) has these two tubes coming out the driver's side, toward the battery. One is just below the radiator cap, and the other further down. They are maybe a couple of inches long. They have brass-looking tips, and they were covered with this cracked and aging rubber that makes me think they used to be hooked up to something. What are they? Should they be connected somewhere? The 90 has no A/C. The 92 does have A/C. I don't know if this makes a difference, but the 92 does not have the same tubes, so I'm not sure if a swap is still the way to go. any ideas? thanks.

There's a lot in the forum on hood release problems that involve broken clables. How about this one... After having my 92 loyale towed awhile back, I noticed that the driver wasn't all that careful, and aside from wrapping my front license plate around my bumber, when I went to pop the hood, well, it wouldn't pop. But the cable is intact. If someone sits inside and pulls the release, you can lift the hood slightly, then open the latch and raise the hood. Why doesn't it pop up anymore...? Can I fix it? Is it related to the tow truck ride? Thanks all...

I'd like to bring this thread back to life, if I could... I don't know much about radiators, so I'm looking for some advice about where to go with this one... Haven't looked into it yet, but since we have two soobs around here, I guess I could swap radiators without too much work and see if that is indeed the problem. Then the one that ends up with the bad radiator can get the new one... But... Is a new one necessary? Can radiators be repaired, and is this what a "rod-out" is? Are Junk Yard radiators worth the effort (how would you know a good one from a bad one)? I've only gotten one price so far on a new one and it's $250-ish. Always looking to save some cash... Thanks

My 1990 Loyale heats up in ways that don't make sense... Usually I can drive long distances at a nice speed and there are no problems. Sometimes going up a steep grade or winding it out in a low gear sends the temp gauge up very close to redline. Just last weekend, I was driving home from a place about five miles down the road, and a thousand feet down in elevation. I was sort of cruising the winding road. I probably never took it above 3rd gear, and likely not higher than 3000rpms. It almost redlined in the few minutes getting from there to here. I recently replaced the thermostat, and the last time a mechanic was involved, he checked the radiator and found no leaks/problems. What should I be looking for? Water pump? Why is this thing getting so hot? Thanks...

Greetings all... This will be my first post on the new generation board. My wife and I were just at a dealership looking into our first new Scoob: a 2006 Forester. The 2005's are still available, so we're tossing that idea around as well. I asked my marginally competent salesman what changes had been done to the engine between models and he said there were no changes whatsoever. So then he gave us factory brochures from the two years, and a quick glance shows that the 2006 has more horsepower, which makes me think that those engines can't really be exactly the same after all... anybody know what's been done? And, I know there has been some debate regarding the new models on this site already, but now that they are on the street, if anyone has any insight (i.e. is in the process of buying, or has already acquired a 2006) it would be welcome. Thanks

If there were any board members in the Idyllwild area, I'd feel I owed you all a beer. You're advice saved my soob... and I was about to throw in the towel. So, the passenger side timing belt had about a five inch stretch with no teeth. None. I put the new belt on on the side of the road (a first for me), and drove away with no problems... Took me more time than I thought it would though,... My other scoob doesn't have an A/C. So, getting at the timing belts is pretty straight forward. This one, however, has what I guess is the a/c compressor next to the alternator. It has a shaft that sticks out with a fan attached. It's sort of in the way of everything. Is there an easy way to get this out of the way, or do you just work around it? I tried loosening the bolts that hold that fan on, to get it out of the way, but it just wanted to spin. I ended up doing the job with the fan in the way, but I didn't have to swap the drivers side belt, which may have been more of a problem. Once again, thanks all...

True, she leaks like an undermaintained subaru with 210,000 miles, but that's the way she was when I got her (which wasn't long ago). Had an overhaul planned, but haven't gotten there yet. I check the oil everytime I drive it, and it's got plenty in it now. Oil pressure has always been normal.

Thanks for the good words... I've replaced timing belts before, but never had one break on me... I figured I'd hear a loud noise or something. And I've heard of people driving on less than 4 cylinders, so I was a little thrown off by the fact that it wouldn't start initially. I'll double-check which cylinders were lacking compression...though the mechanic did say that one had none, and the other had a little....???? Anyway, now I have a bit of hope... I should be able to cruise down to smog-land (Riverside) with tools enough to have a crack at it this weekend, if indeed the problematic cylinders are on the passenger side. Lastly, are all in favor of scrapping the timing belt covers, or do they help prolong the life of the belts?

The story of a 92 Loyale... Just the other day I was on my way from my home in Idyllwild, CA, far up in the San Jacinto Mountains... I was headed for Riverside and on to the Ontario ariport to see a close friend off to another continent for good. My wife was getting more and more ill, the result of an ill-fated and disastrous trip to southern Mexico we had just returned from. After pulling off the highway and feeling terrible for her as she vomited everything she had inside, we got back on the road...she insisted on seeing our close friend off. So, about five miles further, I notice the car losing power at high RPMs. I'd downshift and gun it for a hill, and after a certain point, maybe 3000 RPM, the engine would just get loud and have no more power. When I finally made it to my exit, I stopped and when I took off, it was really lagging. She died at the next light. Turned over fine, but wouldn't grab. So far, this was not one of my best days... So, we call a tow truck, and get her to a shop, because I'm now about 50 miles from home. It was night, so we left it. Next day I stop by and try my luck with the ignition. She started fine, but the whole engine shook, and made a sort of high-pitched grinding sound. Mechanic checked her out and found no compression on two cylinders. What happened? Blew a head gasket? Why would it not start the night before? It certainly didn't overheat. Any attempts at explanations are welcome. The sad part is that I never liked the idea of sending a Scoob to the junkyard. But, now with the vehicle undrivable and so far from home, it may be my only option... I certainly won't pay a mechanic for an overhaul, and the cost of a tow up the mountain might be more than the car would be worth running. So: I've posted signs around my small town to see if anyone with atruck would be willing to tow the car home for less than say a hundred bucks, but I'm not hopeful. If anyone out there knows someone in SoCal or the desert that could, let me know. Otherwise, if anyone in the area wants to pick up the Loyale for not much cash, to rebuild/save from the bone yard, PM me. I know this last part likely belongs in the marketplace, and I'll post it there once I give up entirely. Right now, I'm still looking for explanations and some way to possibly save the car. She's a nice one...right at home next to our other loyale, and was always a pleasure to drive. Thanks all

This should be simple, but I don't know where to begin. I have this 92 Loyale, a high mileage job that I'm trying to bring back to life. It's got electric locks and windows, whch I'd rather do without, but I'm stuck with them now. When I got the car, the only window that worked with the driver door switch was the driver door window. Fine. Also, not only does the door lock switch not do anything, but it strangely doesn't offer any resistance ( I'm talking physical not electrical). It just sort of flops up and down, doesn't really feel like a lock switch should - almost like it's not connected to anything (I haven't taken the panels off yet...just looking for a better plan before beginning). So, I understand that there's this relay under the passenger seat, which may be the cause of all of this. But what I didn't get from my search here on the forum, is what am I looking for...? Should I be testing resistance? Should I just replace the switch? Is there a common problem with these things? Advice...please...lay on the advice...

Question for you all... I noticed that the outer edge of the rear passenger side tire on my 4wd EA82 Loyale is wearing faster than the rest of the tire... This might sound like I don't know what I'm talking about (and I don't), but I've always associated alignment with the front end. Is my problem with the rear alignment? Does it need to go to the tire shop for alignment? Or can this be fixed by loosening those 3 bolts I've read about on the "toe?" and adjusting the angle? If so, is there a way to know when it's right, before putting it back together and driving it? Thanks...

So I searched around a bit, and I haven't found the exact answer I'm looking for, though I'm sure it's in the vault somewhere... One of my Subaru's...an EA82 that my wife drives leaks too much oil. I've replaced cam seals and the oil pan seal, both of which helped but didn't solve the problem. it seems to get worse by the day...or maybe just as the weather warms up. Now that it's decent weather for working on a project, I'm thinking of pulling the engine out and taking my time re-sealing it. What should I do to it to ensure a smooth running vehicle for a decent amount of time in the future...? I have no reason to think the head-gasket(s) are blown, so I'm not sure about taking it down that far. It runs strong, but then I guess I might not know if a head gasket was problematic. I'm thinking... cam seals (again), oil pan (again...didn't seal well with my Napa replacement), front and rear main, valve cover seals, new seals in the oil pump, new water pump. Anything else? Come to think of it, do I need to pull the engine out for all of this...? Granted the oil pan is a bit of a hassle when it's in the car.... Suggestions please... for myself and posterity... Thanks all...

In repsonse to the above... how would you know if you had fried your computer? Next... perhaps someone could explain the solution I have found to my 92 thowing the 34 (EGR) code... I swapped computers between my 90 and my 92 and now both are happy. No codes. The computers have different part numbers on them, which I could report if anyone is interested. I initially put the 90 one on the 92 (the car which had been throwing the code and on which I had replaced the EGR Solenoid). The previous EGR Solenoid really was bad... I checked the resistence... The codes disappeared and that was that. I figured if the 92 one, which had been throwing the code, in the other car it would still throw the 34 code, no matter what the condition of the the EGR circuit.... But it works fine... So yeah... I can't explain it but maybe someone else can... And now I'm thinking, maybe the the 90 one (which is now on the 92) is fried and that's why it's throwing no code... so, how would I know?

That last response has a couple of the type of answers I'm looking for. Thanks... Perhaps someone could spare a moment for a couple more or less inane questions... 1. where is the computer located? Is it in the engine compartment or is it the "box" under the dash that flashes codes? 2. how to unplug the cel? 3. What should a used 'puter cost... I was just researching some other threads and was seeing some big numbers being thrown around... I'll check the marketplace and the local boneyards, but I'd like to have an idea going in... First, I'll just swap them between cars to see if that solves it... Both are SPFI, one '90 and one '92. the '92 is throwing the code.

Well, if anyone is going to trace this problem back to the ECU, please share what you learn. In this case, I swapped the EGR Solenoids between my two loyales. They both work in one, but the other throws code 34 with either. The resistor idea is a good one, but that leaves the Solenoid unplugged and non-functional... which I would assume might lead to some performance issues and maybe emissions problems that would keep it from passing smog... am I right? I don't know much about auto electrics... What about leaving the green wires connected? Under the hood, by the hinge, there are four wires, two with white connectors and two with green. With the green ones connected, the check engine light seems to stay off. Is there a problem with just leaving these connected? Any other interesting ideas are certainly welcome. Thanks.

Nice to see another Californian on the board to sympathize with me over the EGR stuff. So, the thing is, I don't much care about the CEL being on, but this is a new-to-me Soob, and it passes emissions just fine on all counts but one. Here in Cali they fail you if the CEL is on. So: can you trick the system? I notice that one of the sets of wires that is used for code reading/resetting the CEL, if left connected, shuts down the CEL when the car is running. Can I just plug them together and head to the smog-shop? Or are they on to that trick? The resistence of the the EGR Solenoid that was on there originally was way off. Obviously bad. Seems it had been swapped out before, because of a jimmied electrical connection. The new EGR Solenoid (used actually), I didn't test the resistence on, though I'll get to this as soon as I don't have 45 thousand things to do (can't wait for the weekend). It kept the light off at first though... now it comes right on everytime she's started. I prefer a simpler solution to trying solenoid after solenoid until one works. That's a lot of cash to be throwing here and there. But one way or another I need to get this thing to pass smog. belizeanbus