rol1

The er27 would make more sense, as there are plenty to pick from, but there's only 1 er33 from a SVX that has been sitting open to the elements. The intake has been split and the injectors are gone. I might take it apart just to look. Are there any versions of the xt6's er27s that have fancy options? Special heads? Injectors? I can choose from a half a dozen xt's for parts. But it would sure look nice with that huge er33 intake looking at me when I pop the hood. make that eg33

Before you get vicious with it get some Justice Bros.'s, JB80, like the can says "Twice as good as the other stuff" really. Spray the nut down and take a long punch or screwdriver and give it a sharp rap. Not enough to bend metal, don't bugger-up the threads. Then come back a hour or two later and give it a try. Best stuff I've ever used, better than liquid wrench and wd40. Oh yeah, if you have tried wd40, squirt it off with some breake cleaner, then use the JB80.

Sounds like the distributer out 180 degrees as described in the ea82 performance article. Could the previous people have had it out and put it back backwards? And now you've replaced the ecu but its still 180 out?

I have read that the er27 is a 82 with 2 extra cylinders, and that it bolts onto the ea82's trannie? If the ej22 will bolt on with an adapter plate, does that mean a er33 will bolt to the same adapter plate?

I think the hovercraft people with universial hovercraft plans that use a ea81 suggest using a ford escort distributer with regular points so to do away with the more complicated edi. Some of the people who fly Subarus', I'm not sure if its the ea81, 82, or ej, use a 2 barrel rockchester for the increased demand for fuel flying.

Cool, checked the solinoids I had and all but one were bad, and it was the one with broken plastic. Hit the Jyard after work and found 2 with 36.2 ohms. No more code problems. Thanks

So how can replacing the egr valve have fixed the CEL as reported in other threads?

So when the solinoid is bad the egr valve is open all the time?

I have the "code 34" and was wondering how the code is detected as an error? I can see that the computer could tell that the solinoid has been activated and closes the valve, (is the solinoid valve normally closed or open?) but how could the computer know if the egr valve is open or closed? There aren't any wires to the egr valve. The solinoids in the pic-a-part lets me blow thru them, and the one on my 92 Loyale w/3sp-at flows free too. Does that mean that it is closed when power is applied? I have replaced it with a good clean looking one from the yard but I don't think the old one is bad. Is a code 34 the egr valve remaining open? Is it plugged up? Built up so it can't close? I have pulled a few off the cars in the junkyard to look at and kept the clearest/cleanest one to trade with mine. Is this likely to fix the code 34? Is there more/anything else, to replace for this system/error other than the solinoid and the valve? And higuys. I found this group looking for info on my new-to-me 92 Loyale. Now I have even more questions, too.

If the nut stripped the threads then there is very little holding it on, and that will easily strip more or completely. Without threads the cotter pin would be the only thing holding the wheel on (well maybe the pad carriers for the breaks), and that has to deal the extra thick washer's extra pressure against the cotter pin and any bumps will really load on the pressure. You better make a phone call. NOW!!