amartin

I need to replace the backing plates for L/R rear drums in my new/used 1997 legacy brighton last 8 vin V730 1933. The dealer said they cost $55 each. I'm wondering if the backing plates from another year/model can be substituted. Anybody have experience with this? Thanks

moosens is right - you can also find right part at rockauto.com. about $110. Thanks moosens for writeup on core swap - worked very nicely for me and i rebuilt the heater box as well with new foam parts

on www.rockauto.com: 1987 GL10 1.8L 1781cc H4 MFITurbo (4) Airtex Part # E8312 $119.79 Acdelco Part # EP185 $141.79

Think I'll yank it apart during xmas and see which ones are really bad and either replace those or aftermarket the fix with bolts and other generic nylon 'T' bushings......

I got my stuff from Advance Auto 2 yrs ago. Pipes pretty inexpensive but watch out for the $$ for front converter - mine was over $250.00. Also be careful of manifold studs as they are backing out. If you see metal shavings coming out with them, better get yourself a tap and die kit - I had to. Don't forget manifold metal gaskets and bolts (dealer only), O2 sensor (aftermarket)

If it is the fan pack resistor, they are available for about $29.00 at rockauto.com. I have a 1987 gl wagon w/167k and have been in and around the machine quite a bit. Just replaced the heater core - makes a person mental. Refurbed the heater box gaskets while I was at it.

I have an oem parts list of my 5 spd shift system (2wd) and there are a bunch of bushings I would like to replace. Unfortunately, the dealer wants over $100 for 10 nylon bushings. Do you have any idea where I can get the dimensions of the bushings for a 1987 gl 5spd 2wd before I tear my only transportation apart or where I can get the bushings at a reasonable price? thanks much

Hello Subarian - To piggy back on this conversation - I have an oem parts list of my 5 spd shift system (2wd) and there are a bunch of bushings I would like to replace. Unfortunately, the dealer wants over $150 for 10 nylon bushings. Do you have any idea where I can get the dimensions of the bushings for a 1987 gl 5spd 2wd before I tear ny only transportation apart or where I can get the bushings at a reasonable price? thanks much

Moosens -great story on htr core replacement. I read the entire progression leading up to your working on it and it was great. I have 87 gl wagon at 170k and will do same thing and had a couple questions - I figured i'll replace dash lights while the thing is partially removed - do you know where the specs for these are or am i just too lazy to find them? Also - temp control slider got stuck with ice (yes ice) 10 years ago and the wife forced the slider to work - so for 10 years the silder know has about 1/4" of tangential play in it - any guess as to what it might be or what I should be ready for to try to fix it? And - last question - anything else you can think of to PM in the dash while its backside is hanging out? thanks a million for trailblazing

I'm fairly new also, but can help in some areas: I will defer to those that have greater expertise in this area, but: I have had reasonable luck at geeting new/reman parts from RockAuto.com, as well as the local Advanced auto parts, and even Pep Boys for generic items. Some things like manifold studs and gaskets i'll buy at the dealer. Yeah - I know the wiring diagrams are weird.

Well, on to my next adventure with my original 87 GL wagon...... I decided to replace the gas pump in my trusty 168k wagon because there was a bit of a stumble at all speeds if lightly pressing the accelerator - so I went to my local store and they asked the the usual - type of car, year, fwd, etc so I gave the this information: 1987 subaru gl wagon, fwd, 1.8L, non turbocharged, 5 speed, and then he asked THE question: Is it fuel injected or does it have a carburetor? Knowing that the roo has 'SPFI', but also has a carburetor, I told him it had a carburetor, and he gave me an aftermarket pump, and I was on my way. I looked at the pump, and noticed the psi was 2.5 --> 5.0, but thought someone else knows better, and installed it. Well, now I can really tell that there is not enough gas to the carb! I called the parts store, and they will take the pump back, but I want to make sure I put the right type back on. My questions (which you have help me with admirably in the past) are: - Is my roo considered 'fuel injected'? - what should be the psi developed by the gas pump (not in my haynes) - is there a decently priced aftermarket pump (universal or otherwise) that I can find through 'advanced auto parts'? - Is there a pump vendor I should stay away from? - the wires available to the old pump are red and dark blue. Is the red positive? I want to keep my roo as long as I can, but have to watch the $$ invested! Thank you all for your input

Right - one does not adjust hydraulic lifter lash. ok so i dont know what i am talking about - won't be the first time. Observations: took roo out on road after oil change - without sea foam - tapping disappeared. BUT i noticed that coolant guage is now not working - something else to track down...... thanks for all your help

What do you all think of atf instead of sea foam?

Great. I will try some sea foam but i'm a little bit of a stickler and will probably want to adjust the lash also. BTW - I found out that the crackly finish on the oil filter is apparently the result of a new formulation the mfr is using - my other roo's filter is the same way!