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EA81 hatch, more questions


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Few more questions...

 

Current car is an 86 EA81 4wd hatch, 4sp d/r, etc etc.

 

Parts car is an 83 EA81 2wd wagon, 5sp, burnt motor.

 

A few things I'd like to learn before 8am morrow morning:

 

A) Steering column swap... the ignition/turn signal dealie is totally ripped out, replaced by dime-store ignition switch held to the underside of the column by electrical tape. looking to take the one from the wagon and throw it in the hatch. Multiple things to think about: what do i need to replace? how far down do i have to unbolt/unhook/remove to get it to swap? anything i need to look out for? special tools, problems/complications that may arise?

 

B) Axles. The front right axle is missing a boot on the tranny side of things. Starting to click. I'd like to swap out axles, because the ones in the wagon are still almost new. However, the right-hand axle on the wagon has worn splines on the wheel side of things, due to a stripped rotor/other problems. Biggie question: Can I take the driver-side axle off the wagon and have it go into the passenger of the hatch with no issues? not sure if cv's are directional or whatnot, don't see what it wouldn't go though.

 

B1) Axles. The rear left axle is also missing a boot, on the wheel side of things. Not making any noise that i can hear. How long can it last like that? I plan on replacing the axles anyway, but if i can get away with running it on the street for another month or so without it dying on me, it'd certainly help my checkbook a bit.

 

C) Shifter feel. Is there a bushing kit for this? the 4sp is so sloppy that i cannot tell by feel if it is in gear or not, i have to try to move it in and out of gear. At times it will not disengage out of fourth, making starting a ***************, in 4lo with lots of clutch burnage. Is it cable operated? or rods? More of an annoyance, not as big an issue as the axles/column, but it'd be nice to fix.

 

D) Clutch. Last Q, I swear it. Whats it take to do a bloody clutch swap? never done any *serious* work on a car before, however, i am very mechanically inclined, but I am lacking in large tools. Would I be better off letting a shop do it? or is just a simple 'jack car up, drop tranny, throw it in, replace, lower, drive'? It runs, it drives beautifully, just has very little clutch left... any pressure at all on the pedal, and it slips. Very annoying.

 

Sorry for the constant, lengthy, 'help me i'm an idiot' posts, and I just wanted to thank those who have helped out, you've been a great help, and I hope to pick your brains further, for quite some time. Any help is a great help.

 

Chris

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B1,

 

You most certainly can get more than a month out of your rear cv as is.

How much you drive and where will have an effect on it. I think if you keep an eye on it and listen for clicking you could postpone that particular repair.

 

Having said that, there are those on the board that say that repair can be done in 10-15 minutes. If you have a donor car you will get the feel for the work as you remove it off the donor. You'll be able to do the install even quicker on the driver vehicle.

 

I have a (non-subie) car that has had a torn boot for 3 years now. It still doesn't click or make noise...and it still needs replacing...:rolleyes:

 

Good Luck,

Glenn

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welcome aboard comrade

 

B) Axles are interchangeable so there should be no issue in putting the driver's side on the passenger side.

 

C) Shifter slop can be a PITA. Here is a link http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/USRM2/mick-usrm/transmission/shift-linkage/shift-linkage-slop-fix.html to one way of fixing it. If you want an extreme way that is super crisp let me know. boswan2001(at)yahoo(dot)com

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Mine often won't come out of 4th, either if it is in gear when I stop. Try going to neutral or downshifting around 20 MPH. That works for me. Much slower and it sticks in gear. Try shutting off the engine and/or playing with the 4wd selector if you do get caught stopped in 4th. Russell

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A) Steering column swap...

possiblly a steering wheel puller will be needed. but pretty basic after that never taken out the whole deal before but its all straight forward everything is of course metric. I have no idea if the swap you want to do will work however.

 

 

B1)The rear left axle is also missing a boot....

most welded diff. guys run with one axle on the street, dont worry about it even if it explodes you got time, till you want to use your 4wd.

 

C) Shifter feel. change the fluid and if you want to get into things follow the link.

 

D) Clutch. pulling the engine might be easier... if you pull the engine you can do it easily by hand with help, and change some leak prone gaskets in the process.

 

 

I think I stopped the engine once in 4th gear cant imagine why though!:cool:

 

:)

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