dmcdlrn Posted November 17, 2005 Share Posted November 17, 2005 Ok, so since I got the car the check engine light has been on. I tried the method in my haynes manual to read codes, I have read that entire huge thread that somebody on here pointed me to last time I asked about this, and tried what it said, but I cannot for the life of me get it to spit out any codes. I figure I must be doing something wrong, so is there anybody with a 93 wagon 4wd 5 spd that might be able to tell me something that I'm missing? It almost seems like it allready has the testing wires plugged in cause it flashes the code for car type as soon as I turn the key to on. Also I am having trouble with power, it has a spot on the pedal at the beginning of acceleration up for each gear where it acts like it is all choked out or something, and when I let off it will go. Immediately your all going to say timing although I have checked this and it is dead on, but I don't know how to disable any computer related timing things, and was wondering if perhaps it was stuck in diag. mode and the car wasn't adjusting timing for me causing it to be a dog. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hooziewhatsit Posted November 17, 2005 Share Posted November 17, 2005 the dead spot makes me think there's a problem with the TPS (throttle position sensor) To read the codes, connect the white connectors under the hood near the wiper motor, and count the long/short pulses from the LED on the ECU under the steering column. Another thing you can do is connect only the greens, and go for a drive. If the CEL comes on solid, find a good place to pull over and read the codes off the LED. If it flashes, go home and unplug the greens, the ECU didn't find any codes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stephenw22 Posted November 17, 2005 Share Posted November 17, 2005 Just so I'm understanding perfectly, this is for a '93 loyale, right? Have you found the green (test) and white (read) connectors? How (exactly, and I mean, exactly) are you trying to read codes? I just want to make sure I completely and perfectly understand the situation. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmcdlrn Posted November 17, 2005 Author Share Posted November 17, 2005 Yes, it is a 93 Loyale. I looked under the hood and found a green connector that had 1 wire which I thought was supposed to have 2. I don't remember a white connector, and I don't remember being anything to connect them to either. Under the dash there is a brown 2 wire, and I think a white 2 wire plugged to another white 2 wire... the book says that I'm supposed to unplug those 2 white ones or something?? I can't remember well cause that was like a month ago now. The car is an early 93, think it was made end of 92, its a 5 spd selectable 4wd wagon. 160K on it. I have contemplated that tps, but don't want to go changing anything off till I can find the code... part swapping for trouble shooting gets expensive quick... somthing I don't want to get into on this winter car. THanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmcdlrn Posted November 18, 2005 Author Share Posted November 18, 2005 wait a minute... so there should be 2 greens and 2 whites under the hood that are disconnected at all times? I think I had some connected or something when I got it... I'll have to check. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmcdlrn Posted November 18, 2005 Author Share Posted November 18, 2005 ok, the greens were definitely connected... and I found two single wire whites stuck in different places under stuff there that were not connected. Should I disconnect the greens? From what I understood of timing... the greens would bypass the computer controlled timing correction which would cause really crappy acceleration I would imagine... I just plugged those two whites together and unplugged the greens and turned the key on and it flashed 35 at me which is purge control solenoid valve. But I drove it into the garage with the greens and whites disconnected and the check engine light was on immediately instead of usually it takes 3 or 4 minutes of driving to come on... I am really confused by if the greens should be hooked up normal or what. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hooziewhatsit Posted November 18, 2005 Share Posted November 18, 2005 for normal driving, nothing should be connected (greens & whites under the hood). Leave the ones under the dash alone. I think the reason why the CEL came on immediately instead of after a few minutes is: with the greens connected (which they were) the car does a diagnostic on each thing that could cause a code. This usually takes a few minutes. With the greens disconnected it saw immediately that the PCS is bad, and turned on the CEL. I'd probably connect just the greens, go for a drive, and when the CEL comes on steady, read the codes right then. Then disconnect the greens and head home. oh yea, and about the TPS, mine was not throwing a code for it, but after replacing it I got rid of my slow speed stumbling/fluttering issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmcdlrn Posted November 18, 2005 Author Share Posted November 18, 2005 Well my purge solinoid is broken visibly... the nipple was snapped off and somebody glued it back on. I figured out why when I called the parts stores... you can't find em and to order it was alot. Would anybody have a junker that I could buy one off of? I'm going to check junk yards later today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msteel Posted November 19, 2005 Share Posted November 19, 2005 I have a used but working solenoid here in SC if you can't find any closer. PM me if you need it. Vacuum solenoids can also be repaired as follows: find a hollow metal cylinder with an inside diameter similar to the inside of the plastic nipple. My father in law used a roll pin. I used the hollow center pin from an RCA audio connector. Then drill out the nipple a little bit so the metal piece will just fit inside. Then glue the plastic and the metal will take most (who knows, maybe all) of the strain. The 4WD solenoid my father in law repaired is still going more than 7 years later. Unfortunately the one I repaired was found to be defective electrically, so I bought a parts car and got some other needed parts at the same time... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hooziewhatsit Posted November 19, 2005 Share Posted November 19, 2005 Well my purge solinoid is broken visibly... the nipple was snapped off and somebody glued it back on. I figured out why when I called the parts stores... you can't find em and to order it was alot. Would anybody have a junker that I could buy one off of? I'm going to check junk yards later today. while that definitely qualifies as broken, it still may or may not be broken as considered by the computer. If you have an ohm-meter, test the resistance between the two terminals in the plug. It should be around 35ish ohms. If it's open (no connection, infinite resistance) then the coil is bad and needs to be replaced. You can also connect 12v to the two terminals (after unplugging it) and seeing if it 'clicks.' If it clicks, it's good, no click = broken. Just something to check before you try to repair the broken nipple... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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