emmli Posted December 14, 2005 Share Posted December 14, 2005 I am trying to replace the valve cover gaskets in my 98 subaru wagon, and I could use a little advice. Is there enough clearance after removing the bolts with the engine still in the car or should I go ahead and take it out to do this ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sid_vicious Posted December 14, 2005 Share Posted December 14, 2005 I am trying to replace the valve cover gaskets in my 98 subaru wagon, and I could use a little advice. Is there enough clearance after removing the bolts with the engine still in the car or should I go ahead and take it out to do this ? You can do it with the engine in the car, no problem. You may want to find a ratcheting wrench for the bolts, as clearance is likely to be too tight for a ratchet and socket. You'll also need to remove a couple items like the air filter housing and I think maybe the windshield washer fluid reservoir. Minor items like that. Remember to replace the sealing bolt washers and spark plug seals, and don't over torque the bolts upon reinstallation. I think maximum is something to the tune of 48 in-lbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
syphon Posted December 14, 2005 Share Posted December 14, 2005 I can't imagine you'd have to take the engine out just to do valve cover gaskets. I've only done them on an EA82, but the bolts were maybe 1.5-2" long... plenty of room to do it with the engine still in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwatt Posted December 14, 2005 Share Posted December 14, 2005 I am trying to replace the valve cover gaskets in my 98 subaru wagon, and I could use a little advice. Is there enough clearance after removing the bolts with the engine still in the car or should I go ahead and take it out to do this ? What Sid Viscious mentioned is important: you need to remove the air filter housing, mass air flow sensor and air intake duct from the passenger-side of the engine compartment. You'll also need to remove the windshield washer tank AND the fuel filter bracket from the driver's side strut tower---that enables you to get your hands and arms down into the engine compartment without getting all cut up by the fuel filter bracket. And definately have a 10mm ratcheting wrench on hand for the lower bolts on each cam cover. Those lower bolts are accessed easily from under the car, but the rear-most lower bolts do require that ratchet wrench. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emmli Posted December 15, 2005 Author Share Posted December 15, 2005 Thanks guys the advice really helps ,I didnt want to start on it and then run into problems later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setright Posted December 15, 2005 Share Posted December 15, 2005 What they said..... ..and, don't forget that you also have access from below. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwatt Posted December 15, 2005 Share Posted December 15, 2005 Thanks guys the advice really helps ,I didnt want to start on it and then run into problems later. One last thing I just remembered: the cam covers tend to become "stuck" to the cylinder heads. Resist the temptation to "pry" them loose, because you'll gouge up the aluminum. After all of the bolts are loosened and you've moved the spark plug wires up and out of the way, just gently bump the covers with a small plastic or rubber hammer from underneath----that'll jar them loose. When the valve covers come loose, they'll leak a small amount of engine oil that was sitting inside them. So before you start, prepare your garage/driveway for that leak with old newpaper or whatever....... Oh, yeh, there's something else. When re-installing spark plug wire boots back onto the spark plugs, don't force the boots back into the spark plug "wells". Just slowly guide them into each spark plug well---it can be a little frustrating because of tight clearance. Once each plug wire boot is inside the plug well, you have to firmly snap the boot onto the plug. If you don't hear a positive "click", the boot is not seated thoroughly onto the plug. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtsmiths Posted December 15, 2005 Share Posted December 15, 2005 Me too, me too ... 2000 Leg. I got all the gaskets, plug seals and grommets so I could do mine when I redid the plugs & wires after work Monday night.. I ended up not doing it yet, 'cause we needed the car in the morning, and I didn't want to start something that would take all night. On the drivers side. Does the oil filler tower come off with the valve cover, it sure looks like it. Also, it looks like there's one bolt through the T-belt cover on the PAX side, but not on the drivers side. Am I seeing everything, yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a97obw Posted December 16, 2005 Share Posted December 16, 2005 If it's the 4 cam 2.5 engine you better make note of where some gasket sealant material was used around the corners of the semi-circular areas over the cam housings, and put a dab of it on your new gaskets before you install the valve covers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwatt Posted December 16, 2005 Share Posted December 16, 2005 Me too, me too ... 2000 Leg. I got all the gaskets, plug seals and grommets so I could do mine when I redid the plugs & wires after work Monday night.. I ended up not doing it yet, 'cause we needed the car in the morning, and I didn't want to start something that would take all night. On the drivers side. Does the oil filler tower come off with the valve cover, it sure looks like it. Also, it looks like there's one bolt through the T-belt cover on the PAX side, but not on the drivers side. Am I seeing everything, yet? Oh, yeh, yeh.....and one more thing.....(I promise I'll shut up now) Oil filler pipe is retained to driver's side cam cover with one bolt---it's kinda' buried down low so you have to look around to spot it. There's an "O" ring that seals the filler pipe into the rocker cover. None of the timing belt cover bolts attach to the cam covers, although one or two do butt up against the passenger side cover.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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