Hello All.

As a new member, and a relatively new (used) RU owner, I sense that this site will be a great resource. While I have very much enjoyed driving the forester for the past eight months, I am tiring of noises.

The latest seems to be a diff or bearing problem. Just had the diff fluids replaced at a lube shop and now I have a droning sound (sounds front and rear) that seem to peak at around 3000 rpm in third. The noise persists when coasting out of gear, and sounds like an invasion of baritone mosquitos. I did not notice this noise prior to the fluid change. There is no evidence of leaking fluid on the housings.

The swerve test doesn't seem to affect the niose/pitch. If this is a bearing problem, it sounds ulike the grinding that I have experienced in other vehicles with front bearing failure.

I also have squeaking brakes (new rotors and pads all around). Usually rear. Can bearing falure cause brake noise (when brakes not applied?)

With only 45000 miles on the vehicle, I am surprised to have these problems. Then again, I was surprised to have to replace the CAT in a vehicle with such low mileage.

Any suggestions to prepare me for a trip to the dealer?

Thanks,

Few Questions, since I can't touch, feel or hear this vehicle:

 

Did this make noise before the fluid changes?

 

Auto or 5 speed?

 

It is possible that it is an Automatic and they drained both the Tranny fluid and front differential and ONLY refilled the tranny fliud, leaving the front differential dry. There are 2 dipsticks on the AWD Automatic that must be filled.

It is a 5 speed

There was no noise before fluid change, which has me wondering if it was done properly.

They also changed the gearbox fluid.

I would check the level of the tranny gear oil. Small dipstick st the rear of the engine on the passenger side. WAY down. You might have to use a flashlight and push some wires out of the way to see it.

 

After that I would remove the top plug on the rear differential and use my finger to feel if there is enough gear oil in there.

If all the fluids are correct, you may have a failed bearing in the tranny, differential or even a rear wheel bearing gone bad.

Ferret -

 

Thanks for your posts. I would never have located that dipstick - hidden behind wires as you suggested. After a miracle of contortion, I have discovered that the fluid there is full and clean. Same for the differentials.

 

Xing fingers that it is a wheel bearing problem... seems as if this would be the least-worst case scenario.

 

Cheers,

Hello All.

As a new member, and a relatively new (used) RU owner, I sense that this site will be a great resource. While I have very much enjoyed driving the forester for the past eight months, I am tiring of noises.

The latest seems to be a diff or bearing problem. Just had the diff fluids replaced at a lube shop and now I have a droning sound (sounds front and rear) that seem to peak at around 3000 rpm in third. The noise persists when coasting out of gear, and sounds like an invasion of baritone mosquitos. I did not notice this noise prior to the fluid change. There is no evidence of leaking fluid on the housings.

The swerve test doesn't seem to affect the niose/pitch. If this is a bearing problem, it sounds ulike the grinding that I have experienced in other vehicles with front bearing failure.

I also have squeaking brakes (new rotors and pads all around). Usually rear. Can bearing falure cause brake noise (when brakes not applied?)

With only 45000 miles on the vehicle, I am surprised to have these problems. Then again, I was surprised to have to replace the CAT in a vehicle with such low mileage.

Any suggestions to prepare me for a trip to the dealer?

Thanks,

 

 

Ok the cat should have been covered under the 100K mile emissions warrenty

 

Noisey brake pads could be several things, all not the cars fault.there is a anti-squeel shim that goes behind the pad, sometimes it is left out. Could be non OE brake pads, or a harder brake pad then OE, or an off brand (i buy bendix with no problems)

 

i dont see what year thiis is. Foresters had weak rear whell bearings (do a search) and th fix seems to be to replace them with legacy wheel bearings.

 

merry christmas

 

 

nipper

Ok the cat should have been covered under the 100K mile emissions warrenty. One bad tank of gas can kill a cat.

Noisey brake pads could be several things, all not the cars fault.there is a anti-squeel shim that goes behind the pad, sometimes it is left out. Could be non OE brake pads, or a harder brake pad then OE, or an off brand (i buy bendix with no problems)

 

What model is this ? Foresters have weak wheelbearings if its a forester

 

merry christmas

Squealing brakes: i had non-OEM pads put on my Legacy, which squealed ALL the time, and truth be told they squealed less when the brake pedal was down. The cure is OEM and the shim they come with. Can't get the shim without getting pads, too. I tried.

 

Wheelbearings: I test drove a Forester with horrible bearings. My Legacy bearings went bad. Bad bearings are bad bearings and just have to be dealt with. Get the cone-shaped bearings used in Legacies. Someone said the new Forester bearings are also cone-shaped. Go cone! Woo-hoo!

 

Oxy sensor: do a little investigating and try to figure out what made the cat fail. That seems awfully early. Foresters have O2 sensor problems which the folks on the board can explain better than i can. Seems the front sensor is too exposed to the elements. You might want to see if a failing sensor (but not yet failed so no CEL) could have contributed to the cat.

Oil overfill can also kill a cat, or gas that was mixed with leaded for some reason or had high sulfur content. As far as the emissions warranty--dunno if the 100k US would cover you as presumably you are in Canada, having your car serviced at a Canadian dealer. (Are there 45K miles or 45K km on the car...and was the car originally sold in Canada?)

Squealing brakes: i had non-OEM pads put on my Legacy, which squealed ALL the time, and truth be told they squealed less when the brake pedal was down. The cure is OEM and the shim they come with. Can't get the shim without getting pads, too. I tried.

 

Wheelbearings: I test drove a Forester with horrible bearings. My Legacy bearings went bad. Bad bearings are bad bearings and just have to be dealt with. Get the cone-shaped bearings used in Legacies. Someone said the new Forester bearings are also cone-shaped. Go cone! Woo-hoo!

 

Oxy sensor: do a little investigating and try to figure out what made the cat fail. That seems awfully early. Foresters have O2 sensor problems which the folks on the board can explain better than i can. Seems the front sensor is too exposed to the elements. You might want to see if a failing sensor (but not yet failed so no CEL) could have contributed to the cat.

 

Sounds like you have been through the brake issue -- they sqeal less when applied.....next time I will hold out for OEM, or bendix as has been recommended.

As for the bearings (if that is the issue), I will ensure that they are replaced with the legacy parts. The 'go-cone' humour will assist while paying the bill.

Re the sensor, I will ask if it can be tested. I won't be a happy camper if I have to have the CAT replaced again.

Thanks

Oil overfill can also kill a cat, or gas that was mixed with leaded for some reason or had high sulfur content. As far as the emissions warranty--dunno if the 100k US would cover you as presumably you are in Canada, having your car serviced at a Canadian dealer. (Are there 45K miles or 45K km on the car...and was the car originally sold in Canada?)

 

Subaru Canada warranty did cover the CAT (just under the five year emissions limit) at 45000 miles (about 65000 kms).

Seems early for a CAT failure.

As suggested, I will look into the 02 sensor to rule it out. Seems fragile. I put 200000 miles on a mazda pick-up, and drove the last 70000 with a shot sensor. It passed emissions tests with flying colours.

Once I get the bugs out of this RU, I'm sure I'll be happy. Already amazed that I got a five foot soaker tub and 72 inch glass slider doors into it with the hatch closed.

Thanks for the reply.