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I'm about to do the 120K maintenance on my 1996 Impreza Wagon 2.2l and have a couple of questions.

 

1. Do the camshaft sprockets have to be removed to remove the water pump or the oil pump? The manual says yes but I'm not to sure.

 

2. Without the special tool, could a strap wrench be used to hold the camshaft sprockets (possibly used with an old timing belt)?

 

3. When I changed my timing belt at 60k (4 years ago) I bought a new timing belt tensioner in case I needed to replace it. I didn't use it and it has remained in it's original packing (box and plastic bag) and stored inside. Any views if it would still be good. Not sure why it wouldn't.

 

4. Shouldn't the crankshaft bolt be torqued to about 125-130 ft-lb vs 69-76 ft-lb per the manual?

 

Thanks,

Dave

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1. Do the camshaft sprockets have to be removed to remove the water pump or the oil pump? The manual says yes but I'm not to sure.

Shouldn't have to remove them unless they really are in the way.

2. Without the special tool, could a strap wrench be used to hold the camshaft sprockets (possibly used with an old timing belt)?

There is a small plastic cover where the motor and the transmission meet on the right side (not the side the starter is). Jam a big screwdriver into one of the slots as you try to wrench the bolt off. Never used a strap wrench, but it might work.

3. When I changed my timing belt at 60k (4 years ago) I bought a new timing belt tensioner in case I needed to replace it. I didn't use it and it has remained in it's original packing (box and plastic bag) and stored inside. Any views if it would still be good. Not sure why it wouldn't.

Should be good - not like milk or cheese.

4. Shouldn't the crankshaft bolt be torqued to about 125-130 ft-lb vs 69-76 ft-lb per the manual?

Uhhh......I think I've used 125 the whole time.

But be careful listening to me. This is my idea of 135,000 mile maintenance::-p

2035802_75.jpg

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Do the camshaft sprockets have to be removed to remove the water pump or the oil pump?
definitely not for water/oil pump. remove those for the cam seals only
2. Without the special tool, could a strap wrench be used to hold the camshaft sprockets (possibly used with an old timing belt)?

yes, but i would refrain from the strap method and others... works sometimes, not others. if you do try it and it's not coming, don't force it. the best method i know of - if you remove the valve covers (really easy) there's a square notch on the camshaft that you can get a wrench around to keep the camshaft from spinning. this is the least risky method in my oppinion. i've damaged cam sprockets, cap carrier caps and timing covers trying other methods before i knew about the cam having the notched area on it. for some reason those cam sprocket bolts can be very hard to get off, never had any problems with older subaru's (which i've done more of), only the 2.2 liter motors.
3. When I changed my timing belt at 60k (4 years ago) I bought a new timing belt tensioner in case I needed to replace it. I didn't use it and it has remained in it's original packing (box and plastic bag) and stored inside. Any views if it would still be good.
yes, use it. i would definitely install the new one now, it will be fine. forget which type you have, but i would extend/retract it a couple times to free it up and get any internal grease spread around.
4. Shouldn't the crankshaft bolt be torqued to about 125-130 ft-lb vs 69-76 ft-lb per the manual?
others here will be more certain, but 69 is too light in my oppinion. you're in luck though because the crank is iron so crank away, you won't strip the threads like in the rest of the block that's aluminum. i use a 1/2" drive and a 3 foot breaker bar and put alot of stank on it. i don't use a torque wrench here, i just crank the doodads out of it. like i said, it's iron and it won't strip...at least the 50 or so times i've done it it hasn't stripped. you don't want the crank pulley coming loose, be sure it's tight and then check it again before you start the car.
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There is a small plastic cover where the motor and the transmission meet on the right side (not the side the starter is). Jam a big screwdriver into one of the slots as you try to wrench the bolt off. Never used a strap wrench, but it might work.

 

this requires having a timing belt installed. i wouldn't do it this way, but it could work if the timing belt holds. i've had them rip and/or slip over the teeth on the cam. not ideal for an interference engine, though it's doubtful it would hurt anything i'm not keen on all that stress on the timing components maybe that's just a personal issue. on a manual trans you can put the car in gear and that will keep the motor from turning over (hopefully). it'll start moving if the bolts don't give. i use a socket extension, i don't trust a screwdriver not to break, but i don't know the quality of my screwdrivers! but i only do this to loosen the crank pulley bolt not the cam bolts.

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