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2 issues with my 99 Forester


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Issue 1:

 

Engine hesitates at idle. I've replaced the o2 sensor, reset ECU and had carbon deposits removed from the engine. Still hesitates at idle! Any ideas what I should do/check?

 

Issue 2:

 

The switch that adjusts the air flow of the climate control doesn't seem to work very well. When it's set to bi-level, some air comes through the dashboard vents. If it's set to dashboard vents, some air comes out of the windshield vent. Is there a way to fix this?

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How many K on this car?

Issue 1

Has the air flow meter recall been done ? Look for a blue paint mark on the top screw that holds the air flow meter in the air intake housing

If it doesn't , get your vin and call the dealer and get them to check for any outstaning recalls

If its a high miler the TPS may have a "dead spot" in it

Issue 2

There are cables that adjust the vent door on both sides of the heater matrix . The one on the left does the vent mode and the one on the right does the hot/cold

Try adjusting the cable up or down the holder on the side of the heater matrix untill it correspond with the selected level

 

Hope that helps

SEA#3

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Actually, it's now 3-issues (although it could be related to #1):

 

A short history: The car has 140,000 kilometers (which is about 87,000 miles) on it. I don't know too much about fixing cars except that I hate having to repair them. I bought the car used from my local Subaru dealer. They did all the maintenence on the car before I purchased it. I thought it would make sense to continue with them since they knew the car. As well, they've done all my oil changes and never indicated anything was wrong.

 

This other day, I was in need of an oil change and didn't want to wait for an appointment so I went to Pennziol for 20-minute job. Turns out my oil is burning - the level was really low and my car doesn't leak - it must be burning! Not once has Subaru ever indicated there was a problem with the oil.

 

Does this just sort of happen or does it take a long time with small indicators along the way?

 

What do I do about burning oil?

 

Some follow-up regarding issue 1:

 

I should have mentioned, the dealer changed the wires and plugs because I was complaining about the hesitation after they replaced my transmission (a totally different goose-chase). They indicated there was a trouble code that indicated cylinder 3 was misfiring and a bad o2 sensor. They determined that it needed to have the carbon cleaned off the engine components and replaced the noted parts.

 

 

I'm starting to miss my old 92 maxima that only needed new brakes, muffler and oil changes.

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Could be a lot of thing. Have you tried/checked:

Throttle cleaning (careful)?

Knock sensor?

Ground issue?

Fuel pressure?

Quality of spark (plugs/wires/coil)?

Misfires?

 

 

How do I check the knock sensor, grounding issues and fuel pressure?

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I thought it would make sense to continue with them since they knew the car.

I used to trust the dealership near my house in Detroit the same way. No-a-a, my friend. The bulk of my experiences indicated my car was no different than any others and the mechanics there are jobbers who may or may not be actual Subie afficianados.

 

 

 

they replaced my transmission (a totally different goose-chase).

I may be in the market for a new tranny (170k mi and making horrific noises on decel). How much should I expect to spend?

 

They indicated there was a trouble code that indicated cylinder 3 was misfiring

I pulled the same code three days ago. My motor ticks, too, though. I compression tested it and it's way low (like 60psi). I'm convinced I've burned up a valve or re-blown my head gasket. Any suggestions anyone?

 

They determined that it needed to have the carbon cleaned off the engine components and replaced the noted parts.

I'm running Lucas engine treatment in the hopes this might be the problem, but I'm not optimistic.

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they replaced my transmission (a totally different goose-chase).

 

I may be in the market for a new tranny (170k mi and making horrific noises on decel). How much should I expect to spend?]

 

My tranny was under warranty, however, it was quite a fight to get them to acknowledge it. I brought it in with 5-days left on the warranty complaining about the tranny. They changed the fluid and said everything is fine. It wasn't.

 

I brought it back a few weeks later and they said "Sorry Sir, you need a new transmission. Given we just sold you the car 2-months ago, we're willing to give you the transmission at cost."

 

I asked what's that worth and he said $3500.00!!! Then he said, that's a good price because is regualarly $5200 taxes included.

 

Ouch! That's when I said that they need to review what just happened because the optics look terrible.

 

Two weeks later they complied and changed the tranny under warranty.

They indicated there was a trouble code that indicated cylinder 3 was misfiring

 

I pulled the same code three days ago. My motor ticks, too, though. I compression tested it and it's way low (like 60psi). I'm convinced I've burned up a valve or re-blown my head gasket. Any suggestions anyone?]

 

When they diagnosed this, they told me to change the spark plugs and everything should be good. You have me concerned. Perhaps I need a new compression test.

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New development! First, the ticking . . .

Your probably having the same problem I am. I tested for spark at the coil, wires and plug. Not a problem (amount and timing I'm unsure about, but it seemed legit. I poked myself three times doing this - felt healthy :grin: ) . . . now for the news

99 legacy GT 2.5 5 speed. Reversed twice in the past three days (second time was this morning) and thought I'd hit something but there was nothing behind my car = something in my drivetrain is binding up. Results in horrific whining from transaxle and rear diff (hard to distinguish?) in forward gears that's speed dependent (not rpm!). I feel like I have hours to decide what to do or completely waste my transmission. Does anyone know a good trans shop in SE Michigan? There's only one dealership I haven't yet gone to and I'm seriously reluctant. I feel like they're accustomed to 'burbanites and could give a rip about my car. Also, I may be willing to fix this myself, but my time is limited and the cost of renting a car or buying a beater in the interim would add up my costs quickly. Help! I'd like a diagnosis that's not gonna cost a week and $400.

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Does your car shake consistently at idle? Does it "spool up" uncharacteristically when starting (example, is the rhythm of the starter interrupted with an audible "miss" when it sounds like the starter is not grabbing and spinning faster?)? This is my telltale low compression - the lack of compression in my one cylinder fails to resist my starter and causes this over-spinning. I also smell unburnt fuel from my exhaust.

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  • 3 weeks later...
Does your car shake consistently at idle? Does it "spool up" uncharacteristically when starting (example, is the rhythm of the starter interrupted with an audible "miss" when it sounds like the starter is not grabbing and spinning faster?)? This is my telltale low compression - the lack of compression in my one cylinder fails to resist my starter and causes this over-spinning. I also smell unburnt fuel from my exhaust.

 

I don't think I've noticed an audible "miss." When it starts, it turns over a number of times - more than my old '92 Maxima!

 

Can you describe this a little more clear?

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