I have a 2000 Outback wagon, 2.5L standard engine.

 

It's time to replace the water pump.

 

Can anyone direct me to the procedures that are specific to this generation of engine?

 

Any tips/tricks/advice would be appreciated.

 

Since I'm in there I'll do the timing chain too.

 

Thanks

Well, I just did the one on my '96 2.5L Outback. I don't know if there are any differences in the two - I suspect not. First, if you've never done the timing belt on one of these before, then check out this site for loads of good info and pictures: http:///endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.5Timing.pdf

 

If anything they are a little overcautious, but the article is still worth the time spent reading it. BTW - You don't need the special cam holding tools that they recommend. The left side tool (the only side that you really need to worry about holding fixed because the cams are under valve spring tension when the crank is positioned such that the pistons are in a "safe" position - so they won't clash with valves) will set you back over $100 -- unless you happen to have two spare 17mm sockets and a piece of 1/8" steel bar stock around 6 inches long and 1 inch wide. Then with a drill, some bolts, lockwashers and nuts you can make your own for next to nothing. Alternatively you might find it handy to have an extra pair of hands to keep those cam pulleys from turning when you install the new belt.

 

The water pump is pretty simple, once you've disassembled everything down to removing the timing belt sprocket that is bolted to the pump housing and disconnected the hoses from the bottom, of course. Just remove the 6 bolts that hold it in place and give it a tap or two with a hammer/wood block and it'll pop right off. Check the unit for gaskets - there's a Z shaped one on the left side of the pump that'll probably have to be transferred to your new pump. Take care to keep the gasket on the new one carefully aligned when you install it. Unlike what the Haynes manual advises, you should not have to remove cam pulleys or the rear timing cover. Approximate time to do the complete job - 8 hrs if you've never done one before - 7-1/2 hrs messing with the crank pulley, the timing belt, etc... and 30 minutes to actually swap out the pump!

Well, I just did the one on my '96 2.5L Outback. I don't know if there are any differences in the two - I suspect not. First, if you've never done the timing belt on one of these before, then check out this site for loads of good info and pictures: http:///endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.5Timing.pdf

 

If anything they are a little overcautious, but the article is still worth the time spent reading it. BTW - You don't need the special cam holding tools that they recommend. The left side tool (the only side that you really need to worry about holding fixed because the cams are under valve spring tension when the crank is positioned such that the pistons are in a "safe" position - so they won't clash with valves) will set you back over $100 -- unless you happen to have two spare 17mm sockets and a piece of 1/8" steel bar stock around 6 inches long and 1 inch wide. Then with a drill, some bolts, lockwashers and nuts you can make your own for next to nothing. Alternatively you might find it handy to have an extra pair of hands to keep those cam pulleys from turning when you install the new belt.

 

The water pump is pretty simple, once you've disassembled everything down to removing the timing belt sprocket that is bolted to the pump housing and disconnected the hoses from the bottom, of course. Just remove the 6 bolts that hold it in place and give it a tap or two with a hammer/wood block and it'll pop right off. Check the unit for gaskets - there's a Z shaped one on the left side of the pump that'll probably have to be transferred to your new pump. Take care to keep the gasket on the new one carefully aligned when you install it. Unlike what the Haynes manual advises, you should not have to remove cam pulleys or the rear timing cover. Approximate time to do the complete job - 8 hrs if you've never done one before - 7-1/2 hrs messing with the crank pulley, the timing belt, etc... and 30 minutes to actually swap out the pump!

 

Thanks for the great info; can you check that link to the PDF? I can't get it to appear.

The link works.

However, you have SOHV not the DOHV.

Endwrench.com should have a newer procedure for the SOHV. Do a search.