misledxcracker Posted March 15, 2006 Share Posted March 15, 2006 This is a long one... hopefully I/you/we can figure all this out... I have a new problem with my '86 GL, 3at crappy auto, n/a.... I checked the timing, set it to 20 degrees BTDC. It still idles odd, in Park it idles high at times, and low at times. In Reverse or Drive, it idles lower than when in Park. Funny thing is, it seems to act a lot better when it's warm. It used to stall out when cold, but since adjusting the timing, it doesnt do that anymore. Thing is... also, the timing threw itself off already... twice. I'm getting the ECS light - Crank Angle Sensor code. Sometimes the ECS light just turns itself off while driving, sometimes stays on... It's weird. I used to have the EGR code but that eliminated itself... also another weird one. Also, it ticks, knocks, something like that, but it makes a noise that you cant hear above 3k rpm.. the lower the RPM's, the worse it sounds. I bought the car non-running for 2 years, and got it running, the oil was dirty, old, pretty bad. I changed it to 3 quarts 10-30 Castrol, and 1 quart MMO. Within 100 miles, the oil was dirty as the last oil was.. Well I then drained that, ran 4 quarts ATF and idled it for 45 minutes, and then drained that, and replaced filter and put 4 quarts of Mobil 10-40. It still makes that friggin noise... tick, knock, I have no idea. The local mechanic says it's a "flex plate" problem... yet how the heck does oil get so dirty within 100 miles of driving? I'm suspecting dirty lifters... but how can I tell a tick from a knock? Also... since I'm getting the CAS code... and my timing keeps getting thrown off... bad disty? And... could a bad disty possibly cause the engine to make that horrid noise? It does start, run, drive... but the noise, ahhh the noise! Can someone enlighten me here? I want to get it running primo so I can start buying the less significant things... like a CB radio, stereo system, window trim, and corner light housings... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subiemech85 Posted March 15, 2006 Share Posted March 15, 2006 you need better oil! go to the farm store and buy a gallon of mystic 15w50 and a purolator oil filter or go to advance auto and buy a gallon of castrol tection 15w40 and "purolator" oil filter or the AA3600, it's a purolator in disguise with red texture, a quakerstate is the same in white paint Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robaru Posted March 15, 2006 Share Posted March 15, 2006 Sounds like your do for a reseal of the oil pump or new oil pump. If you take the oil pump off and the mickey mouse seal is bad, do a reseal of the pump and see if that fixes it. If the seal looks fine then spring for a new oil pump. If your timing belt covers are still on, leave the outer ones off until you get this fixed, or leave them off permanently as many do. It will be tons easier to get back in there. This should fix your ticking. If it does'nt then your stuck with pulling the heads and checking the individual lifters though this is probably the least likely culprit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misledxcracker Posted March 15, 2006 Author Share Posted March 15, 2006 About the idling problem... In Park, it idles at about 900. In Drive or Reverse, it idles at about 500. The CAS code still comes up... but all I've seen on the forum are people that get the CAS code but the car doesnt start... well, mine does? And now I've noticed... at about 45-55 mph (3k rpm) it shudders somewhat like it wants to die... and it stalled out on me again out of nowhere! And I checked timing again this morning... after I had set it to 20 degrees before... it set itself forward again, by itself?? So I took the disty cap and rotor off (darn screw) and then shook the shaft... it turns a slight bit... like the rotor would, if that makes sense? Like, it turns a tiny tiny bit when i turn the shaft, is that the "free play" I should be replacing the disty for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misledxcracker Posted March 15, 2006 Author Share Posted March 15, 2006 update... been fiddling with the car. Now I'm only getting a code 62 - egr solenoid... never had that code before. first it was 35 and 16, then only 16, now only 62. the crank angle sensor code went away after i timed it again... but the idle still acts weird (900-1000 in park, 500-700 in gear)... Can having it timed wrong throw a CAS code?! the egr valve itself seems fine... the inner part pushes in and out, so it's not stuck... WTF is wrong with this thing? New day, new code... edit: oh yeah, and also, when car is started, and no gas is applied, no CEL. once i even touch the gas pedal, CEL comes on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subiemech85 Posted March 15, 2006 Share Posted March 15, 2006 you should have said SPI! truoble codes 16 crank angle sensor 35 air flow meter 62 egr control sys you may have to set the timing at "base timing" which may involve connecting a connector to make the computer stop adjusting timing the difference in rpm is acceptable, you did put a load on the engine, as would running the cooling fan, blower motor and ac compressor all at the same time the egr solenoid is supposed to control the egr valve, but "can" be disconnected the distributor wear that is the problem is if the rotor can move up and down, and may eventually grind away at the componets, backlash is necessary - only a problem if excessive you may also have to re-set the throttle position sensor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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