I have torque bind and the TCU has code 24 stored. I cleared it and it came right back. Cleaned all the plugs no help. The code is - shorted/open C-Duts S.

 

I'm Looking for the correct pins/wire colors at the engine compartment trans plugs so I can test it with out pulling the transfer housing. Thanks for the Info!

 

I pulled the rear half of the rear drive shaft, but don't like the idea of driving that way. Has anyone driven in that condition for any length of time? What were the results?

The code is - shorted/open C-Duts S.

 

imdew i don't have an FSM or the technical info you want, but that's the Duty Solenoid C. you can replace just that solenoid. should see some wires around the rear extension housing. one would be the rear speed sensor, the other the duty solenoid C, unless the wiring is enitrely internal which i can't imagine it is. duty solenoid C is replaceable though, that may fix your problems. be interesting to see how it tests out, definitely post your results.

 

I'm Looking for the correct pins/wire colors at the engine compartment trans plugs so I can test it with out pulling the transfer housing.

copied from another thread:

"The connector is just under the hood over the torque converter housing. There are two found in this area -its the one closest to the driver side. It is a 16 contact connector in a 4X4 configuration. To test solenoid C (AWD) electrically, place an ohmmeter between pins 4 and 11 on the connector half going to the transmission. Looking at the contact side of the connector and the locking tab facing up, the pin numbering will start 1 on the upper right corner going left and down. So 4 will be on the upper left corner and 11 will be the third row, second from the left. This should show 9-17 ohms if solenoid windings haven't burned or wire connection hasn't been severed. "

 

I pulled the rear half of the rear drive shaft, but don't like the idea of driving that way. Has anyone driven in that condition for any length of time? What were the results?

you will not experience any problems. i've driven that way on more than a couple subaru's in automatic and manual form. that being said....pretty sure your Duty Solenoid C is stuck because i don't think the car is driveable with the rear driveshaft disconnected unless:

 

in a manual - the center differential is locked

in an automatic - the rear transfer clutches are "locked" via Duty solenoid C

 

this thread has some information about torque bind... if you can sift through all the tangents or just do a search for "torque bind" you'll get a ton of info on it.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=48865&page=9&highlight=duty+solenoid+modification

the wiring is all internal with the exception of at the harness at the top of the trans. if you already have the rear shaft out why dont you just replace the solenoid, its already a quarter of the job. i just did mine yesterday and it took me an hour and 45 mins to do. just drop the rear cat and the trans crossmember, pull the rear housing bolts and pull the tail section off. when you pull the section down be carefull not to tear the wire. i just used the whole rear section with the clutches and everything from one of my parts cars, i just put the car back together and i didnt want to take a chance on the old clutches. any questions pm me.