My Subie is carbureted and I think the carb is going bad. It ran good until the timing belt broke. I replaced that and did the complete tune up and it was running fine. Then I cleaned the carb with some seafoam and since then it runs rough at high speeds, idles anywhere between 750 and 2200 Rpm until a tap on the pedal lowers the rpm even when hot. And after sitting for a while is hard to start? I think the float is sticking. This is my commuter car so gas mileage is important. I think I have 3 options besides doing a SPFI conversion. Buy a rebuilt hitachi, convert to a weber, or going to a cheaper holley-weber carb. Will the Holley-Weber get rid of emissions stuff?? I do not have emissions testing so that is ok. How about gas mileage? I am not worried too much about power. 0 to 60 in 6 miles is ok with me. I just want this car to last 3 more years. Just asking for opinions. Thanks.

check vacuum lines and also see if choke is sticking

Have checked them, haven't replaced them though. And choke appears to function ok. Thanks

Sticking floats do happen with these - you could get a rebuild kit and remedy most anything that is wrong with the Hitachi you have. Cost about $30 for the kit. The Napa ones seem to be alright. The rebuild is not that difficult, but these are of fair complexity as carbs go.

 

Depending on where you buy it, a rebuilt Hitachi would probably be the next cheapest solution - I think CCR still does them and the price is pretty fair.

 

The official Redline Weber kit is around $400 depending on where you get it. If you find a weber off ebay, buy a rebuild kit, and the proper jets for a subaru, plus the adaptor plate you can come in just under $200 if you are careful - this is the cheapest solution for the weber, but takes some legwork or ebay to locate a sub-$100 DGV Weber. The DGV is simple as carbs go, and is easy to rebuild and change the jets on.

 

The SPFI swap is also nice, but unless you have a donor car or buy one for cheap all the parts needed can cost as much as a weber kit if you get it all from a yard. It's also the most complex and least documented option - involving wireing some relays, splitting the FI harness from the donor car's body harness, and swapping the distributor and coil.

 

GD