Phillip Posted April 8, 2006 Share Posted April 8, 2006 It's time to replace the timing belt on my '99 Outback Wagon. I've changed dozens of timing belts in my career, but never one on this type engine. How important are the cam holding tools? If essential, can a suitable tool be fabricated? How about the crank holding tool? Can the engine be held by the flywheel thorough the ignition timing visability port at the rear of the engine? I've got the factory manual, but any tips would sure be appreciated. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DWM650 Posted April 8, 2006 Share Posted April 8, 2006 Looking at Drivers side, Cams are loaded (spring pressure) THEY WILL ROTATE as you release the belt. I used a buddy to hold with wrenches and slowly release spring pressure. they will go in opposite directions about 1/4 to 1/3 of a turn. Just allow them to move SLOWLY:eek:. Check out this article It fully explains this. One last Item Are ya replacing the Tensioner ? Because its a hydo piston that if you try to RECOPPRESS it most likely will Bend the rod. No tension on the belt, Belt jumps time, Wipes out evey Vavle in the engine:slobber:. Might as well do Water pump and Check Oil pump bolts while your in there!!! DaveMac:brow: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phillip Posted April 8, 2006 Author Share Posted April 8, 2006 If I understand correctly, assuming I have the engine at TDC with the crank timing mark lined up, only the left side (drivers side) cams will rotate? In addition to being no stranger to OHC engines, with years of experience changing timing belts, I've got the factory manual and the End Wrench article. Both describe a procedure for recompressing the tensioner using a press and not exceeding 66psi to compress the piston. Did you bend the rod in your tensioner using this procedure? I appreciate you taking the time to explain this process I'd hate to pull the heads to replace valves (or worse!) Thanks again. Looking at Drivers side, Cams are loaded (spring pressure) THEY WILL ROTATE as you release the belt. I used a buddy to hold with wrenches and slowly release spring pressure. they will go in opposite directions about 1/4 to 1/3 of a turn. Just allow them to move SLOWLY:eek:. Check out this article It fully explains this. One last Item Are ya replacing the Tensioner ? Because its a hydo piston that if you try to RECOPPRESS it most likely will Bend the rod. No tension on the belt, Belt jumps time, Wipes out evey Vavle in the engine:slobber:. Might as well do Water pump and Check Oil pump bolts while your in there!!! DaveMac:brow: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a97obw Posted April 8, 2006 Share Posted April 8, 2006 Ok, here is what the passenger side of the 4 cam 2.5 liter engine looks like when the heads are removed and the crankshaft is lined up with the timing mark. The drivers side looks just the same. Should the cam, any one of them, rotate with the crank in the correct position, you aint gonna hit the top of the pistons with the valves. So what you do before you remove the old belt, is turn the engine clockwise so the marks for the crank and the cams line up to their respective spots. Then remove the belt via the tensioner and also remove the lower left (looking at the front of the engine) idler. If the tensioner is one of the types that are positioned nearly horizontal such as the 97 and earlier 2.5/2.2 tensioners, then you just put it in a vise and S L O W L Y tighten the vise, like an 8th of a turn each time over a duration of about 10 minutes and it will be ok. Put it in the center of the vise so you don't get it in an uneven clamping position. When it is finally compressed, stick a small allen wrench or nail or the sorts through the holes that you lined up before you started to compress the tensioner and you are good to go. If you have your hand resting on the upper right side (drivers side intake) cam when the belt is off....look out! It WILL take the hide off of your hand when it spins abruptly! But it is generally the only one that will spin. The other 3 are pretty benign because they aren't compressing the valve train. Just turn it back to where it is supposed to be just before you install the belt as described next. The dotted line on the new belt goes over the crankshaft at the mark on the tab on the back of the sprocket.....NOT the arrow! The arrow points to 3 o'clock when it is right. Get the belt on the crank first--if it is an OEM Subaru belt you should be able to read the printing on the belt as you are looking at the front of the engine for the tooth count to be correct, but verify that as well---, then under the tensioner and over to the top right cam (intake drivers side), then over the bottom right cam (exhaust drivers side) around the sprocket idler over the water pump and then over the left side lower cam and finally the upper left cam. THEN you reinstall the lower left idler by using it to lift up on the belt and then start and tighten the bolt. Have everything torqued to specs and then pull the pin on the tensioner. So in long, I've never used any tool to hold the cams. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DWM650 Posted April 8, 2006 Share Posted April 8, 2006 Yea I compressed mine for kicks, but i had already bought a new one. Just because it came highly recomended by a Subie Mechanic that does this for a local deaership. He said its not worth the risk, What to say after 100k of use that it won't fail after disturbing it.:-\ The damage would cost more than the piece of mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Top Posted April 9, 2006 Share Posted April 9, 2006 I use a mini bar clamp with the rubber pads and just snug it up horizontally between the two pulleys. It holds the cams perfectly. Just make sure the bars point to the middle of the engine or they will be in the way. The picture was taken with a Palm so its not real clear but you can get the idea. http://www.gpcom.net/minderman/CAMHOLDER.JPG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted April 10, 2006 Share Posted April 10, 2006 if you're reusing the tensioner due to failure possibilites then you're also looking at replacing all the timing pulleys for the same reasons. they have bearings that can fail and do the same thing - ruin the belts and valve/pistons. with 100,000 mile change intervals it's a good thing to replace anything as that's a long time to hope it lasts on an interference engine. the good thing is that you can at least inspect the timing pulleys by rolling them. if they feel good and tight and don't spin freely then the grease and bearings inside are good and you can keep it. if the pulley spins freely, noisey or is not tight then it needs replaced as there is no grease left inside. you can also repack the grease yourself or replace just the bearings. that requies some resourcefulness, but i've done it. the pulleys can be upwards of $100 each. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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