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I recently replaced the blown 2.5 with a JDM 2.2 on my son's outback. The engine works excellent but there wasn't any EGR bung in the left head. Apparently the engine was a pre 95, my OB is a 98. I found the correct Intake with everything on it and I'm trying to figure out what to do about the missing EGR hole in the head. I found a correct left head in a junk yard, mileage unknown. The outside was clean but through the port holes, it looked rust colored because someone had already pulled the injectors and left the hood open.

 

Is it possible to drill and tap the hole or is it more prudent to get the head and have it serviced at a machine shop?

 

I have the jdm Intake on it now and it works great, but Inspection is coming in Sept. and the EGR light/ message will cause a fail.

 

Any ideas?

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I recently replaced the blown 2.5 with a JDM 2.2 on my son's outback. The engine works excellent but there wasn't any EGR bung in the left head. Apparently the engine was a pre 95, my OB is a 98.

I have the jdm Intake on it now and it works great, but Inspection is coming in Sept. and the EGR light/ message will cause a fail.

 

Any ideas?

 

I had (sort of) the same problem. The only heads which will work are those from a '95 ej22 with an auto trans. (post '95 ej22s had single exhaust ports on each head and will not fit the ej25 exhaust. Also, for whatever reason, manual trans '95 2.2s did not have egr.) I have heard that drilling and tapping the earlier non EGR heads does not work due to the proximity of a water passage, but I don't personally know that to be a fact.

Anyway, when I was dealing with the same issue (in the end I just bought a complete '95 motor with EGR) and brain stormed a few ways of dealing with it- the question is "how does the ECM know that EGR is functioning?" I _believe_ it checks for two things: the presence of continuity in the EGR control solenoid, and it also looks for a change in the mixture via the 02 sensor when the EGR control solenoid is engaged to verify actual gas flow through the EGR valve. So, it's going to be pretty hard to fake out. You might be able to (and I know this is goofy) install the USDM intake manifold, all the EGR hardware and run a tube from the left side of the Y exhaust pipe (weld in a threaded bung) up to the EGR valve. The only reason that this might not work is if the back pressure is wrong...let us know if you try it and if it works.

 

cheers,

Nathan

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I've been Bung Hunting, heard all the jokes. Tried NAPA, Haredware, Tractor/Farm supply and Home Depot. No Bungs......

 

Any idaes where I might find the Bung for the exhaust manifold?

 

 

The only place I've seen weld-in bungs sold is with aftermarket air/fuel ratio meters-- if you're installing an AFM in a car which originally did not come with an 02 sensor (say, a older carburated car) - they sell an o2 sensor and a bung to weld into the manifold for you to thread the 02 sensor into. The threaded hole will likely be too large for your EGR application, but you could use a combination of threaded reducers or something. I think if you look around at air fuel ratio meters, you will probably find a place to buy a bung. Perhaps some of the suby tuners would have something you could use? Also, the same bung type setup is used for add on EGT (exhaust gas temp sensors) in turbo applications... bet you can find something there from the WRX boys.

 

Alternately, you might be able to take a large nut, grind the corners smooth, grind a curve into it to match the profile of your exhaust and weld that on...

 

Good luck- let us know how (if!) this EGR kludge ends up working out for you!

nathan

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Thanks for the come back. I'll try local tuner shops (didn't think of that). I was thinking about just getting a block of aluminum about the same size as the exhaust gasket, about 1/2-3/4 " thick, machine it to match the gasket, make two, then drill and tap a hole in the left one, mount them between the exhaust and head with an extra gasket.

 

Maybe tommorrow.............

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