I can't really tell for sure where the leak is, should it be really obvious? The valves in one cylinder did look damp, like I would imagine it would if it had some coolant on it. The others looked dry.

 

And when I was removing the cams, some of the bolts had a little bit of water under pressure under them. When I first untorqued them I got a little pffft and some drops of water. 3-4 bolts under the valve cover did this and 1-2 of the bolts holding the seals did it too. What's up with that?

 

I'm not totally sure, but I think a couple head bolts came out wet too, not sure what to think there either.

 

Thanks,

Monte

:-\

Replaced the head gaskets on my 97 OBW 40,000 Km ago and so far everything is fine.

 

I too was wondering the same thing as I stared at the parts in front of me. I had exhaust gases visible in my coolant overflow bottle but the original head gasket appeared fine.

 

Once I started peeling the layers of the gasket apart, I could see obvious places where the exhaust gases were getting into the cooling system.

 

This made me feel a little better about doing the whole job...

 

 

 

Regards;

Ken

Its not always obvious. Be absolutely sure the head and block surfaces are PERFECTLY flat before reassembly.

Its not always obvious. Be absolutely sure the head and block surfaces are PERFECTLY flat before reassembly.

 

Can I do that myself? I can easily take the heads in, but the block? I've seen pictures of checking the heads with a straight edge and feeler guage, but where do I get a good straight edge?

 

Monte

Replaced the head gaskets on my 97 OBW 40,000 Km ago and so far everything is fine.

 

I too was wondering the same thing as I stared at the parts in front of me. I had exhaust gases visible in my coolant overflow bottle but the original head gasket appeared fine.

 

Once I started peeling the layers of the gasket apart, I could see obvious places where the exhaust gases were getting into the cooling system.

 

This made me feel a little better about doing the whole job...

 

 

 

Regards;

Ken

 

Yeah, it'd be nice to see the leak. I'll look closer at the gasket.

 

Monte

If you need a reference point, here is a photo from Skip's head gasket changeout page:

So, do you think that where the black stuff is gone is where it's been leaking? If that's the case, there's no doubt mine were leaking. I'll post some pictures later to show.

 

Thanks,

Monte

 

If you need a reference point, here is a photo from Skip's head gasket changeout page:

Can I do that myself? I can easily take the heads in, but the block? I've seen pictures of checking the heads with a straight edge and feeler guage, but where do I get a good straight edge?

 

Monte

The heads are almost always distorted a bit. Any automotive machine shop can mill them flat again. It's not very expensive.

Can I do that myself? I can easily take the heads in, but the block? I've seen pictures of checking the heads with a straight edge and feeler guage, but where do I get a good straight edge?

 

Monte

a steel ruler is the standard straight edge. Just dont by a cheap one.

 

nipper

a steel ruler is the standard straight edge. Just dont by a cheap one.

 

nipper

 

What's a "not cheap" steel ruler? I'm a carpenter, I've got "steel rulers" all over the place. None were cheap to me, but I'm not sure if I'd trust them to check my heads and/or block.

 

Monte

What's a "not cheap" steel ruler? I'm a carpenter, I've got "steel rulers" all over the place. None were cheap to me, but I'm not sure if I'd trust them to check my heads and/or block.

 

Monte

 

Thats all you really nees, is a steel ruler or a machinest ruller. As long as they are solid steel they will have a perfect straight edge on them. You check the heads in the x, y, and diagnol directions.

 

nipper

A steel ruler isnt going to be precise enough in this case.

 

The tollerance is very low. Snap-On sells a straight edge that would be way overkill for a do it yourselfer but its obviously good enough. I have a feeling that if you put your shortblock in the trunk of a car and took it with you to the place that you have your heads surfaced at they might check the block for you for a few bucks.

A steel ruler isnt going to be precise enough in this case.

 

The tollerance is very low. Snap-On sells a straight edge that would be way overkill for a do it yourselfer but its obviously good enough. I have a feeling that if you put your shortblock in the trunk of a car and took it with you to the place that you have your heads surfaced at they might check the block for you for a few bucks.

 

Steel rule is good enough for a flatness check, as he isnt going to be taking dimensions off it. Now if he was going to do dimensions thats an entirely differnt ball game.

 

nipper