June 19, 200619 yr I had a pinging problem that turned out to be a bad coil. I threw a junkyard coil on there about 1000 miles ago. My engine has been running great until a few weeks ago. Now somtimes when I try to acc I experance a major loss of power. But dyno says I'm loosing about 40 hp. I give it about 1/4 throttle and I feel the boost building about 2 seconds after getting on the throttle I loose the power and the exhaust note changes. If I stay into it my acceleration is still pretty smooth but I'm down on power. and then all of a sudden it's like somthing snaps and I'm running perfectly again. The snap back to normal is not rpm related, and dosn't seem to be throttle related although if I back off to zero throttle then accelerate again it's usually all good. 93 2.2 stock turbo/psi, aftermarket bp/bo valve, 3" dp/exhaust New - KS -ect sender -plugs/wires -TPS voltages withen spec and smooth -I have the junkyard coil on there now and a brand new OEM coil, but I wanted to know if Subi igniters tend to go bad and fry coils, or how to check my Igniter before I stick the new coil on. My Subi manual says to check igniter input harness, but can I check it's output? Also beyond ignition would you suspect? Wastgate solinoid? MAF? MAP? TPS? Whatever bo/bp valve I have? (blue and silver adjustable) Thanks Brice
June 19, 200619 yr I had a pinging problem that turned out to be a bad coil. I threw a junkyard coil on there about 1000 miles ago. My engine has been running great until a few weeks ago. Now somtimes when I try to acc I experance a major loss of power. But dyno says I'm loosing about 40 hp. I give it about 1/4 throttle and I feel the boost building about 2 seconds after getting on the throttle I loose the power and the exhaust note changes. If I stay into it my acceleration is still pretty smooth but I'm down on power. and then all of a sudden it's like somthing snaps and I'm running perfectly again. The snap back to normal is not rpm related, and dosn't seem to be throttle related although if I back off to zero throttle then accelerate again it's usually all good. 93 2.2 stock turbo/psi, aftermarket bp/bo valve, 3" dp/exhaust New - KS -ect sender -plugs/wires -TPS voltages withen spec and smooth -I have the junkyard coil on there now and a brand new OEM coil, but I wanted to know if Subi igniters tend to go bad and fry coils, or how to check my Igniter before I stick the new coil on. My Subi manual says to check igniter input harness, but can I check it's output? Also beyond ignition would you suspect? Wastgate solinoid? MAF? MAP? TPS? Whatever bo/bp valve I have? (blue and silver adjustable) Thanks Brice Ignitor wont do this. Knock sensor can do this. You can fry an ingitor by leaving the car "on" and not running for a long time. The ignitor will make the car buck and kick stall or not run, it would be like running on 2 cylinders. This sounds more like your timing is changing. nipper
June 20, 200619 yr Author Yah it feels like a timing problem. My KS is new and reads 560kohms so its withen spec. Need to check map, put a boost gague on to see if I have a boost leak, and maybe swap my other maf on there. My question still remaines though. I know on my Mazda that igniters go bad, start overloading the coil and eventully fry the coil. So before I put my brand new coil on there I want to check the igniter outbut. Like I said the subi shop manual scan I have dosn't tell me how to test the igniters output. Anyone know how to check it? Thanks Brice
June 20, 200619 yr Yah it feels like a timing problem. My KS is new and reads 560kohms so its withen spec. Need to check map, put a boost gague on to see if I have a boost leak, and maybe swap my other maf on there. My question still remaines though. I know on my Mazda that igniters go bad, start overloading the coil and eventully fry the coil. So before I put my brand new coil on there I want to check the igniter outbut. Like I said the subi shop manual scan I have dosn't tell me how to test the igniters output. Anyone know how to check it? Thanks Brice er um where are you getting this spec? The knock sensor should read open to ground (per haynes and subaru). that is telling me you need a knock sensor. nipper
June 20, 200619 yr Author er um where are you getting this spec? The knock sensor should read open to ground (per haynes and subaru). that is telling me you need a knock sensor. nipper From the 1992 service manual section 2 scan. Adobe Page 486 that I downloaded from this site "1 Disconnect connector from knock sensor 2 measure resistance between knock sensor terminal and body specified resistance Aprox 560 kohm" thanks Brice
June 20, 200619 yr From the 1992 service manual section 2 scan. Adobe Page 486 that I downloaded from this site "1 Disconnect connector from knock sensor 2 measure resistance between knock sensor terminal and body specified resistance Aprox 560 kohm" thanks Brice hrmmm Hayns manual says zero. Also the way that the sensor opertaes tells me that it should be zero. Its a piezo quartz sensor that generates an ac signal that is sent to the ECU. The strength of this signal depends on how bad the knock. Any path to ground the ac signal would immedialty go to ground and never get to the ecu. im going to have to look at that manual, you have a link? nipper
June 21, 200619 yr Author well it was actually legacycentral.org It was one of these links, not sure which one. I can email you the zip if you want. http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=14485 Anyways the KS is new my brother installed it about 3 months ago. So what about the igniter? I don't want my new coil to go bad, but I don't want to spend $200 on a new igniter if I don't have to. Anyone else? Brice
June 21, 200619 yr well it was actually legacycentral.org It was one of these links, not sure which one. I can email you the zip if you want. http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=14485 Anyways the KS is new my brother installed it about 3 months ago. So what about the igniter? I don't want my new coil to go bad, but I don't want to spend $200 on a new igniter if I don't have to. Anyone else? Brice get an ignitor from a scrap yard, preferable a car that was totaled. i think bad ignitors amy be the reason some older cars get junked. Take the coil pack too, sometimes the coil will cure it. These are really hard to diagnose over the net nipper email me the zip i want to see it lthrpup@optonline.net
June 21, 200619 yr say read this about the blow off valve http://www.gofastbits.com.au/index.php?parentid=tech_info&option=tech_info
June 21, 200619 yr Author Thanks I'll emil that to you. Whats the recomended way that you all check the knock sensor?
June 21, 200619 yr haynes just say no damage to the body, and no continiutiy between the terminal and ground. nipper
June 21, 200619 yr Author Edit: http://www.putfile.com/boostbird The 2 pages dealing with the KS are here. ^^^ I just noticed that the link below is to PQ Canada, Maybe that makes a diffrence? Sorry don't have a email client big enough to send the file 31mb. So here is the link http://www.driftquebec.com/legacy/1992_legacy.pdf Brice
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