plarsen111 Posted July 1, 2006 Share Posted July 1, 2006 I was wondering if someone could help me out with a rear wheel bearing problem. 1. Guy says it needs to be put on with a press. True? Then this means I can't do it at home? 2. If I get the tapered bearing instead of a ball bearing, then it should last a while (like all the other Subaru's I've owned)? 3. Should I use the dealer, or any shop (assuming they have a press)? 4. If you have any other info that may be helpful, like brand of bearing or whatever, then I will be very greatful. Thanks, Plarsen111 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerFahrer Posted July 2, 2006 Share Posted July 2, 2006 Yeah, the old one has to be pressed out, and the new one has to be pressed in. I would only put the same type of bearing in. Advance should have aftermarket bearings for your car that will be cheaper. I think the ones from Advance are Federal Mogul. Any shop can do it, doesn't have to be a dealer. Make sure the new bearing is sealed properly upon installation. Many wheel bearings fail because they run out of grease. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88HatchMonster Posted July 2, 2006 Share Posted July 2, 2006 Are we talking rear bearings? If so then... Get OEM bearings. They will be tapered as the ball type are obsolete. Aftermarket bearings are likely to be ball type and will not last as long. If the outer CV cup is rusted, then it should be replaced along with the bearing and all THREE seals, as it will compromise the seal and you will likely ruin the new bearing in short order. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subie Gal Posted July 2, 2006 Share Posted July 2, 2006 Are we talking rear bearings? If so then... Get OEM bearings. They will be tapered as the ball type are obsolete. ditto. dont mess around with aftermarket bearings or in a few months, you'll probably be swapping them out yet again. perhaps this discussion will help... http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=787070&highlight=wheel+bearing lots of advice and photos therein good luck Jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plarsen111 Posted July 2, 2006 Author Share Posted July 2, 2006 First of all, I want to really thank everyone who responded. Very cool. I did hear one person say to put in the same type of bearing (ball bearing) rather than tapered rolling bearing. Should I really do this? For the most part, I am reading that I need to put in the tapered rolling bearing. Thanks again, Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plarsen111 Posted July 2, 2006 Author Share Posted July 2, 2006 Jamie, thank you. That is an amazing tutorial. Question for you or anybody. The tutorial outlined the process for replacing front wheel bearings, and mine are rear wheel bearings. I have drum brakes. Is the process pretty much the same, and is it easy to remove drum brakes to get to the bearing? Thanks, Phil ditto.dont mess around with aftermarket bearings or in a few months, you'll probably be swapping them out yet again. perhaps this discussion will help... http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=787070&highlight=wheel+bearing lots of advice and photos therein good luck Jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcspeer Posted July 2, 2006 Share Posted July 2, 2006 If you want to start doing this yourself I would buy a Haynes manuel and it will show you how to remove the rear knuckle hub assembly, then I would replace it with one from the wrecking yard. Then you can get a shop press for around 200.00 dollars from Harbor Freight and you can then take the old one apart and put it back together as many times as you need untill you get it down. This is what I done on my front bearing and it is so easy it makes no sense to pay anyone else to do this. I have not had to do the rear yet but it dont look like it will be to much different then the front. Jamie, thank you. That is an amazing tutorial. Question for you or anybody. The tutorial outlined the process for replacing front wheel bearings, and mine are rear wheel bearings. I have drum brakes. Is the process pretty much the same, and is it easy to remove drum brakes to get to the bearing? Thanks, Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plarsen111 Posted July 2, 2006 Author Share Posted July 2, 2006 I am seeing quotes on the internet for a shop to do the job--roughly $350-$450. Is this both sides, or just one? Thanks, plarsen111 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcspeer Posted July 2, 2006 Share Posted July 2, 2006 That is most likely for one side, I think I paid 250.00 labor and the cost of bearing which came to around 300.00 dollars, if you dont want to fool with a press, replacing the hub spindle assy.with one from wrecking yard is around 50.00 dollars. I am seeing quotes on the internet for a shop to do the job--roughly $350-$450. Is this both sides, or just one? Thanks, plarsen111 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dxrflyboy Posted July 2, 2006 Share Posted July 2, 2006 If you want to start doing this yourself I would buy a Haynes manuel and it will show you how to remove the rear knuckle hub assembly, then I would replace it with one from the wrecking yard. Then you can get a shop press for around 200.00 dollars from Harbor Freight and you can then take the old one apart and put it back together as many times as you need untill you get it down. This is what I done on my front bearing and it is so easy it makes no sense to pay anyone else to do this. I have not had to do the rear yet but it dont look like it will be to much different then the front. The back bearings can be replaced without removing the knuckle using a Hub Tamer or similar tool. The long bolt that attaches the radius arms to the knuckle has to be removed (this can be a problem if the bushing sleeves are rusted to the bolt) to disengage the hub from the axle stub. Remove the hub flange with a slide hammer, take out all the seals and snap rings, and "press" the bearing out using the Hub Tamer/similar tool. This tool is a threaded rod with the proper cups/plates/etc. to force the bearing in and out of the knuckle. If you're the creative type, you may be able to fabricate such a tool on your own. Otherwise, the Hub Tamer will pay for itself if you do both back bearings. It will also replace the front bearings without removing the knuckle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcspeer Posted July 2, 2006 Share Posted July 2, 2006 I had given thought to buying the hub tammer, but with my Subaru being used for mail del. I have other things wear out like the sleaves or bushing, in the control arms that also need replacing, I think for most people the hub tammer may be right but for me I think the press was most useful. The back bearings can be replaced without removing the knuckle using a Hub Tamer or similar tool. The long bolt that attaches the radius arms to the knuckle has to be removed (this can be a problem if the bushing sleeves are rusted to the bolt) to disengage the hub from the axle stub. Remove the hub flange with a slide hammer, take out all the seals and snap rings, and "press" the bearing out using the Hub Tamer/similar tool. This tool is a threaded rod with the proper cups/plates/etc. to force the bearing in and out of the knuckle. If you're the creative type, you may be able to fabricate such a tool on your own. Otherwise, the Hub Tamer will pay for itself if you do both back bearings. It will also replace the front bearings without removing the knuckle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerFahrer Posted July 2, 2006 Share Posted July 2, 2006 While I'm not a fan of aftermarket parts, the OEM bearings are garbage anyway, so I figure the aftermarkets can't be that much worse. I've done over 10k on the 4 aftermarket bearings in my red Legacy, and don't have any problems so far... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dxrflyboy Posted July 3, 2006 Share Posted July 3, 2006 While I'm not a fan of aftermarket parts, the OEM bearings are garbage anyway, so I figure the aftermarkets can't be that much worse. The biggest problem with the Subaru bearings is the "shipping" grease they are packed with. This stuff is mostly wax. It gels and the bearing is no longer lubricated. Subaru says to remove all the "shipping" grease and pack the bearing with bearing grease before installing it. But apparently, that doesn't happen at the factory!:-\ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88HatchMonster Posted July 3, 2006 Share Posted July 3, 2006 The biggest problem with the Subaru bearings is the "shipping" grease they are packed with. This stuff is mostly wax. It gels and the bearing is no longer lubricated. Subaru says to remove all the "shipping" grease and pack the bearing with bearing grease before installing it. But apparently, that doesn't happen at the factory!:-\ This topic is definitely up for debate, as subaru's endwrench article from 2003 says the new tapered bearings are ready to install out of the box, and should not be repacked. In my experience, the rear bearings fail because the inner seal becomes compromised and water, salt and grime are let in. This is usually due to a rusty outer CV cup tearing up that inner seal. This happens a lot in the North East and a good shop that's dealt with the problem before won't install a new bearing without installing a new axle as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferret Posted July 3, 2006 Share Posted July 3, 2006 Unless you are buying NOS (New Old Stock) Subaru bearings, just use them out of the box. Somewhere in 2002 (IIRC), they changed the way the pack and ship the rear bearings. They were 'coated' with a low temp grease based protectent and the service guide would tell you to clean and repack them. Then later in 2002, they came already packed in the proper grease. No p/n change so unless you saw the older clear/amber protectent, you might not know it was changed. 2 things, if you are unsure, repack them with the proper grease OR ask the Subaru parts counter guy, they usually know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dxrflyboy Posted July 3, 2006 Share Posted July 3, 2006 No p/n change so unless you saw the older clear/amber protectent, you might not know it was changed. The last time I installed a Subaru wheel bearing was a few months ago. It was packed with the light amber stuff. I packed it with wheel bearing grease before installation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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