87 Carbed 4Wd 3speed auto

 

Parked car no problemes

 

came out next AM and turn the key and it sounds like it wants to start but does not.

 

Took air filter top off and check to see if anything cloging th carb. Nothing appears to there. try starting it with air cleaner top off and got backfire through the carb.

 

 

Came home and checked out distributor, spark plugs, both seamed to be dry no condensation and solid connections.

 

Now when i try to start it, It just turns with out any hope of turning the engine over. I do get a small pop in the Carb if I pump the gas pedal.

 

Any further hints would be welcomed

Is the turnover speed faster than normal? Maybe the TBelt popped off or snapped.

Is the turnover speed faster than normal? Maybe the TBelt popped off or snapped.

 

Does not seem to spin faster

Does not seem to spin faster

 

Insert Stoopid question here. TBelt is located in front correct?

Have you checked for spark at the spark plugs?

 

If its not a hatchback, have you checked the timing belts?

 

Have you checked to see if fuel is coming through the carb? Maybe try starting it with some starter fluid?

Insert Stoopid question here. TBelt is located in front correct?

The timing belts are located underneath the black covers at the front of your motor. Look in the USRM for procedures regarding Timing Belts.

ok you need 3 things for a car to run - spark fuel and compression. Check to see if spark is coming from the coil, if not check if it is getting power... if it is distributor is suspect. Check your ignition timing. Check your compression, low compression may indicate tbelt slipped/broke. Check for fuel, sounds like you have fuel though. Backfiring through the carb would indicate that either something is up with valve or ignition timing.

 

I'm still a newb as far as engine tuning goes but those are the basics... others should be able to expand on that but that should give you a start.

 

Whats the metallic sound you are talking about in the thread title?

ok you need 3 things for a car to run - spark fuel and compression. Check to see if spark is coming from the coil, if not check if it is getting power... if it is distributor is suspect. Check your ignition timing. Check your compression, low compression may indicate tbelt slipped/broke. Check for fuel, sounds like you have fuel though. Backfiring through the carb would indicate that either something is up with valve or ignition timing.

 

I'm still a newb as far as engine tuning goes but those are the basics... others should be able to expand on that but that should give you a start.

 

Whats the metallic sound you are talking about in the thread title?

 

 

The metalic sound comes from flywheel housing. ( probally always made the sound but could not here over the engine)

Take off the two covers on the left and right of the engine!!! really you will only need to takeoff the left side (using Drivers side as left) if thats not off broken check the tension and see if its tight... i dont mean Super stiff but make sure that it wont flap around... while the cover is off have a buddy crank it for you and makesure that its moving! Do you hear your fuelpump??? tell your buddy to either crank it or cycle the key on and off while you lay under the car listening to the pump... if you cant hear it put your hand on it and try to feel it vibrate... and if you really want to test it.. take off a fuel line and cycle the key and see if it squirts out! PHEW im tired!

Take off the two covers on the left and right of the engine!!! really you will only need to takeoff the left side (using Drivers side as left) if thats not off broken check the tension and see if its tight... i dont mean Super stiff but make sure that it wont flap around... while the cover is off have a buddy crank it for you and makesure that its moving! Do you hear your fuelpump??? tell your buddy to either crank it or cycle the key on and off while you lay under the car listening to the pump... if you cant hear it put your hand on it and try to feel it vibrate... and if you really want to test it.. take off a fuel line and cycle the key and see if it squirts out! PHEW im tired!

 

 

The Tbelt covers can be removed to check breakage w/o dimantling the entire front of the car correct?

 

Looked at Prccedure in HTKYSA and they said removing or replacing took special tools right.

 

Are their indicators other than 180k on the engine that these items may break?

The Tbelt covers can be removed to check breakage w/o dimantling the entire front of the car correct?

 

Looked at Prccedure in HTKYSA and they said removing or replacing took special tools right.

 

Are their indicators other than 180k on the engine that these items may break?

 

I dont know a whole lot about ea82... but the special tools mentioned I'm sure can be "improvised" with something you may have readily available to you. I also dont think timing belts usually last 180k. Another thing that came to mind is possibly a sticking valve which could cause backfiring through the carb. I just went through that ordeal on a nissan l20b. When you crank it over is it trying to run and then backfiring and dying or it just wont try to run at all. Aside from checking the fuel pump check the fuel filters and float level in the carb to make sure enough gas is getting to the carb.

Typically the t-belts last 50k - 60k.

 

No special tools needed. There has been talk of "tensioning" the belts but all evidence points to that not really being needed. As long as they are tight they all seem to go about 60k and that's it. You are likely on the third set by now, and 180 is perfect for #4.

 

GD

Take off the two covers on the left and right of the engine!!! really you will only need to takeoff the left side (using Drivers side as left) if thats not off broken check the tension and see if its tight... i dont mean Super stiff but make sure that it wont flap around...

You should take off both covers. While the left side tends to break more often, there have been reports of people breaking the right side first.

 

I'd hate to go through all the other testing just to find out the problem was the right t-belt and I didn't take the cover off.

 

Removing the covers are easy:

Have a 10mm ratchet/wrench

Have a screwdriver ready

Pull the bolts out of the left and right covers. If a bolt turns in place and isn't coming out, take that screwdriver and pry it off.

 

If you need to remove the center cover (IE: the belts are broken), you'll need to pull the crank pulley off. Put your car in 5th (yes, 5th), and then take a breaker bar with 22mm on the end, and crank that bad bolt off.

You should take off both covers. While the left side tends to break more often, there have been reports of people breaking the right side first.

 

I'd hate to go through all the other testing just to find out the problem was the right t-belt and I didn't take the cover off.

 

Removing the covers are easy:

Have a 10mm ratchet/wrench

Have a screwdriver ready

Pull the bolts out of the left and right covers. If a bolt turns in place and isn't coming out, take that screwdriver and pry it off.

 

If you need to remove the center cover (IE: the belts are broken), you'll need to pull the crank pulley off. Put your car in 5th (yes, 5th), and then take a breaker bar with 22mm on the end, and crank that bad bolt off.

I know but if the left side breaks... the car wont run.. if the right side breaks the car will limp home on 2 cylinders.... ha and you guys think your cars slow now...

Got Spark

Got Gas

 

Damn TBelts Will take covers off in better NW Weather.

 

So is hesitation at speed a indicator that they are going? ( kinda lurching )

 

So is this easy enough for a Short bus mechanic ( me) or beter served having a shop doing? how much typically?

 

Feel like the picture in the photo section that the mechanic had written poor sucker on the inside of the cover.

 

Guess i should feel grateful i do not have ant A/C to Deal with

Got Spark

Got Gas

 

Damn TBelts Will take covers off in better NW Weather.

 

So is hesitation at speed a indicator that they are going? ( kinda lurching )

 

So is this easy enough for a Short bus mechanic ( me) or beter served having a shop doing? how much typically?

 

Feel like the picture in the photo section that the mechanic had written poor sucker on the inside of the cover.

 

Guess i should feel grateful i do not have ant A/C to Deal with

OH YEAH feel really grateful!! My AC bracket has like 9 freaking bolts holding it in AHH ITS SO ANNOYINg... yess if you have mechanical skill... even tapeing somthing on... you can figure this out... take out the bolts on the left and right covers and the center one will stay on... (gotta remove the pully for that one)

I dont think hesitation will be any indication that there going... there kinda a silent killer! My car about 2 mo ago... died at a stoplight... the light turned green... i put it in gear let out the clutch and i wasnt moving... i though i must of stalled it... crankitycrank WONT START.... you get the idea AND NO DONT LET A SHOP WORK ON YOUR SUBIE!!!! Waste of money for somthing like this... if the belts are the issue! then once youve got the parts (may want to replace tensioners evin if they didnt fail, i did.) it shouldnt take more than a weekend if your lazy then itl take 2! Good luck happy hunting!