I have a 95 Legacy LS with 80+K miles. When making a left turn and accelerating, I hear a rattle noise. I did a few 360 turns both left and right and no rattle. I have 4 new tires. Help please.

I have a 95 Legacy LS with 80+K miles. When making a left turn and accelerating, I hear a rattle noise. I did a few 360 turns both left and right and no rattle. I have 4 new tires. Help please.

 

It sounds like the axle on the front left:-\ Check to see if the boot is torn on the left side. The axle is easy to replace, about an hour. After market replacement axle around $100. Some people say to replace your axles in pairs, I'm not one of them:headbang:

You might check your heat shields on the exhaust system to make sure they have not come loose.

Good luck,

feathesjr

It sounds like the axle on the front left:-\ Check to see if the boot is torn on the left side. The axle is easy to replace, about an hour. After market replacement axle around $100. Some people say to replace your axles in pairs, I'm not one of them:headbang:

You might check your heat shields on the exhaust system to make sure they have not come loose.

Good luck,

feathesjr

 

All

 

I confirmed that the boot is broken on the left side. Beside the rattle is is dangerous driving with it? Does it need to be replaced immediately?

 

Thanks

All

 

I confirmed that the boot is broken on the left side. Beside the rattle is is dangerous driving with it? Does it need to be replaced immediately?

 

Thanks

CVs can go a surprising distance even when contaminated after a boot splits. I think I drove almost 10K miles on mine. With the bad weather going on, this distance becomes much shorter. If you overdo it, it will require a wheel bearing change if a bad outer CV overheats the bearing.

 

Check another boot - the one from the steering rack to the hub. This was the source of my rattle/clunk.

CVs can go a surprising distance even when contaminated after a boot splits. I think I drove almost 10K miles on mine. With the bad weather going on, this distance becomes much shorter. If you overdo it, it will require a wheel bearing change if a bad outer CV overheats the bearing.

 

Check another boot - the one from the steering rack to the hub. This was the source of my rattle/clunk.

 

Thanks the info JPX

CVs can go a surprising distance even when contaminated after a boot splits. I think I drove almost 10K miles on mine. With the bad weather going on, this distance becomes much shorter. If you overdo it, it will require a wheel bearing change if a bad outer CV overheats the bearing.

 

Check another boot - the one from the steering rack to the hub. This was the source of my rattle/clunk.

 

Two more questions.

1- Should I replace them both, the other is still good

2- Do I need a wheel alignment after replacement

 

 

Thanks,

I think the answer to both questions is no. If you follow the directions in the Haynes manual for removing and replacing the axle, you wont need a wheel alignment.

Two more questions.

1- Should I replace them both, the other is still good

2- Do I need a wheel alignment after replacement

 

 

Thanks,

I just did mine last week. It was my first time. It was amazingly smooth via the hayne's manual. Here is my list of tools used:

 

Jack

Jack stand

Small chisel (or screw driver) to unstake axle nut

32mm socket for axle nut

24" breaker bar for axle nut

14mm (i think) socket for ball joint pinch bolt

Small prybar (big screwdriver) to pop the ball joint out of position

Pin punch from sears (really important to get right size, I'm not at home right now or i'd look)

 

Small hammer to drive pin

Set of spouse hands covered in gloves to pull on strut gently while I guide axle out of tranny

 

Enjoy, rd