jmickelct Posted November 16, 2006 Share Posted November 16, 2006 OK, Seems like like a dumb question, but, since I dont know how, here it is: How do I measure my oil pressure? (96 OBW 2.5) My valve ticking has grown pretty loud (Marvel Mystery in last night, still waiting for a miracle), have to consider that the oil pump (that I *didnt* change when I did the timing belt) may be hosed... Before I tear into it, wanted to get some idea if its putting out (enough). -John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted November 16, 2006 Share Posted November 16, 2006 You can tee in an aftermarket oil pressure gauge into the same block port as the original pressure switch (located sort of underneath the alternator). The oil pressure switch port on Suby's is something like 1/8" british standard pipe taper thread (BSPT) which is close to national pipe taper thread (NPT) but off by a thread per inch and the thread angle is different, so what I"m trying to say is buy or get a set of adapters (Stewart Warner makes them) because the aftermarket unit will almost certainly be 1/8"npt. Then you just need a 1/8"npt tee and maybe a couple 1/8"npt street tees depending on how you do it. Autometer makes nice gauges and you can get them a summit for not much more than those sunpro's at the auto parts places. I like electrical gauge for oil pressure because if you have mechanical and that little vinyl tube breaks in the engine compartment, well let's just say that if you do have good oil pressure you'll definitely know it. The minimum oil pressure is listed in the repair manual; something like 14psig at 650rpm with oil at operating temperature (let's say 180 deg. F). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmickelct Posted November 16, 2006 Author Share Posted November 16, 2006 Hi, OK. So this isnt something that I can just drive into most shops and say "hook me up, and do the compression test too, while you're at it...: Any experience with oil pump failure (speed of failure?). As close as I can tell (from search the posts), if my current pump is heading south, the increasing clatter (started less than a week ago... first when cold, now pretty much all the time and getting louder... especially @ idle, seems from the passenger (right?) side valve assembly), could be being caused by not enough oil pressure getting lubricant "up there", while @ low RPMs.. Can an oil pump "go" quickly? (I did check, tighten and locktite the phillips screw on the back when in there... did not feeler gauge it...) Feeling less challenged by going back in (now that I've done a timing belt), though cant say I'm eager to spend the day(s)... That plus the fact that I'll be having a used trannie stuck in on Monday... You can tee in an aftermarket oil pressure gauge into the same block port as the original pressure switch (located sort of underneath the alternator). The oil pressure switch port on Suby's is something like 1/8" british standard pipe taper thread (BSPT) which is close to national pipe taper thread (NPT) but off by a thread per inch and the thread angle is different, so what I"m trying to say is buy or get a set of adapters (Stewart Warner makes them) because the aftermarket unit will almost certainly be 1/8"npt. Then you just need a 1/8"npt tee and maybe a couple 1/8"npt street tees depending on how you do it. Autometer makes nice gauges and you can get them a summit for not much more than those sunpro's at the auto parts places. I like electrical gauge for oil pressure because if you have mechanical and that little vinyl tube breaks in the engine compartment, well let's just say that if you do have good oil pressure you'll definitely know it. The minimum oil pressure is listed in the repair manual; something like 14psig at 650rpm with oil at operating temperature (let's say 180 deg. F). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted November 16, 2006 Share Posted November 16, 2006 If you think it's an oil pressure problem first I guess you'd have to see if the oil pressure is OK. If you just want to hook up an oil pressure gauge temporarily to check the pressure, then take the pressure switch out from under the alternator and screw in an oil pressure gauge. Most 'test' gauges probably include a bunch of adapters so one of them should be the 1/8" bspt. Then screw the factory pressure switch back in when you're done. Did you take the back cover off before loctiting the screws to see how the rotors looked? I mean if they were all chewed up that wouldn't be good, or if the vanes are excessively worn it could reduce it's pumping capacity. There's not a whole lot in there and it's driven right off the crank. Are you sure the oil pump o-ring was seated properly? When I replaced my oil pump the oil pump o-ring fell out of place during the install but fortunately I took it back off to see how the ultra grey looked so I caught it in time; otherwise I don't know what happens, maybe it could kind of short circuit some of the discharge flow back to the suction side. Also I guess if the bypass/pressure limiter were weak or leaking it be recirculating flow there too. Also in a previous post on here somewhere someone had maybe a similar issue and it turned out that a piece of the permatex ultra grey got stuck in an oil passage somewhere and they fished it out with a pipe cleaner or something like that. So maybe the anaerobic sealant is a better way to go is what I've heard others say? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmickelct Posted November 17, 2006 Author Share Posted November 17, 2006 Hi, Yeah, have considered all of that.... If the MMO doesnt work, just picked up some SeaFoam.... if that dont work will dive in and take a look at the pump.. And yes, first time trying to mount the pump I had the same o-ring slip, tried to be careful, but who knows.... Would really like to get a read before yanking though (I've had pretty bad local-shop karma and dont have a guy who I use regularly and trust...). Stopped into a local guy today who wanted $85 for a combo oil and compression test.... seemed steep, but if they gotta fiddle with yanking and fitting a bunch of stuff, maybe it'd be worth it (but thats what the pump itself costs... so am tempted... An even more pressing event developed earlier today on the tranny... In addition to the trans slip and the valve clunk, the whole car has been starting to run a bit rough (esp. @ idle... ), so, honestly cant say what made me do it, but just for the hell of it I pulled the battery cable over lunch and let it sit until I was heading home. It was like driving a new car!!!!!! No slip, couldnt make it slip, *lots* of power, shifted (up and down) smooth and strong.... *NOW* my head is really twisted, because, on my way home, I picked up a rental car, to drive to PA on Sat. to pick up a used tranny!... Will be posting this on a whole new thread, because I gotta make a call on this tonight, (in 2 conferences tomorrow and have already paid (CC) for the tranny... More in a new post... Thanks again, John If you think it's an oil pressure problem first I guess you'd have to see if the oil pressure is OK. If you just want to hook up an oil pressure gauge temporarily to check the pressure, then take the pressure switch out from under the alternator and screw in an oil pressure gauge. Most 'test' gauges probably include a bunch of adapters so one of them should be the 1/8" bspt. Then screw the factory pressure switch back in when you're done. Did you take the back cover off before loctiting the screws to see how the rotors looked? I mean if they were all chewed up that wouldn't be good, or if the vanes are excessively worn it could reduce it's pumping capacity. There's not a whole lot in there and it's driven right off the crank. Are you sure the oil pump o-ring was seated properly? When I replaced my oil pump the oil pump o-ring fell out of place during the install but fortunately I took it back off to see how the ultra grey looked so I caught it in time; otherwise I don't know what happens, maybe it could kind of short circuit some of the discharge flow back to the suction side. Also I guess if the bypass/pressure limiter were weak or leaking it be recirculating flow there too. Also in a previous post on here somewhere someone had maybe a similar issue and it turned out that a piece of the permatex ultra grey got stuck in an oil passage somewhere and they fished it out with a pipe cleaner or something like that. So maybe the anaerobic sealant is a better way to go is what I've heard others say? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmickelct Posted November 17, 2006 Author Share Posted November 17, 2006 Hi, Actually did not disassemble the whoe (back of) oil pump (some of the screws were on pretty tight, so I just left well enough alone (or so I thought...). Man, just took it out to test the tranny again... the car is driving like a *bear* but the valve tap is even louder... may end up trying a new unit over turkey-weekend (and will see if I can fish down some of the channels to see if I might also have gummed up the works...). Will definately try the SeaFoam thing first... Cheers, John If you think it's an oil pressure problem first I guess you'd have to see if the oil pressure is OK. If you just want to hook up an oil pressure gauge temporarily to check the pressure, then take the pressure switch out from under the alternator and screw in an oil pressure gauge. Most 'test' gauges probably include a bunch of adapters so one of them should be the 1/8" bspt. Then screw the factory pressure switch back in when you're done. Did you take the back cover off before loctiting the screws to see how the rotors looked? I mean if they were all chewed up that wouldn't be good, or if the vanes are excessively worn it could reduce it's pumping capacity. There's not a whole lot in there and it's driven right off the crank. Are you sure the oil pump o-ring was seated properly? When I replaced my oil pump the oil pump o-ring fell out of place during the install but fortunately I took it back off to see how the ultra grey looked so I caught it in time; otherwise I don't know what happens, maybe it could kind of short circuit some of the discharge flow back to the suction side. Also I guess if the bypass/pressure limiter were weak or leaking it be recirculating flow there too. Also in a previous post on here somewhere someone had maybe a similar issue and it turned out that a piece of the permatex ultra grey got stuck in an oil passage somewhere and they fished it out with a pipe cleaner or something like that. So maybe the anaerobic sealant is a better way to go is what I've heard others say? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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