I read through the threads in the USRM concerning the LSD swap and it looks fairly simple. Are any special tools required to remove the LSD?

Anyone know how much just the LSD weighs?

You'll need a deep 1/4" E10 to get the diff stubs off, otherwise no special tools. Haven't ever shipped one but guessing about 25-30lbs or so (only had to lift mine from one diff to another on my work bench so little hard to judge weight).

They weigh a bit with the carrier, just the limited slip part not too bad. I shipped a couple just the internals, and it was only 8-9$. The only specific part needed as mentioned above is the e-10 torx socket. I have a deep one, I don't know if a short one works, and it wa kinda spendy from snapon tools.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?item_ID=14957&group_ID=2358

I read on a Datsun site that an 8mm deep well "may" work in a pinch, I'll try it and see how well it feels before I wrench on it.

http://kmhafer.datsun510.com/Subaru.htm

 

Thanks for the replies.

"in a pinch" i would chase down the snap-on truck before using a socket that would probably round off the bolt, which means that you would have to cut off the axle stub to get under the bead of the bolt. They're easy to round off even with the proper socket. Get the torx.

Advice well taken, thanks.

you're welcome and good luck!

Now, when replacing the torx bolt back into the carrier, would it be possible to use something OTHER than the torx socket, so as to make it easier for the replacement in the future? So maybe using a different bolt instead of the torx one?

I've used an 8mm deep, 6 point, its worked great for me in the past, that said, i got a specific E-10 bit off the matco truck, for the next time i do it.

Hm.. I'd ask a driveline shop, I have no idea why Subaru went out of their way to put a torx in there. Maybe the head's a lower profile than a standard bolt or something... but it sounds worthwhile. good luck

 

 

Now, when replacing the torx bolt back into the carrier, would it be possible to use something OTHER than the torx socket, so as to make it easier for the replacement in the future? So maybe using a different bolt instead of the torx one?

I've used an 8mm deep, 6 point, its worked great for me in the past,

 

I used the same, 1/4" drive. I had to kick down on the ratchet to break the taper bolt free, and it didn't strip. (Had a friend hold the diff while I kicked the ratchet)

 

I so rarely take those bolts out, it doesn't seem worth it to buy the right socket.

Hm.. I'd ask a driveline shop, I have no idea why Subaru went out of their way to put a torx in there. Maybe the head's a lower profile than a standard bolt or something... but it sounds worthwhile. good luck

 

Probably the same reason other auto makers invent new and odd fasteners, to keep the backyard guys form working on it! But why only the rear diff? Wait a minute, the rear diff wasn't made by subaru was it?