Help! Engine-to-bellhousing bolts- where are they?

[wondercow2]

I'm mid-clutch job, and hoped to have this done by tonight but I can't seperate the engine and trans. I have removed the two nuts on the bottom of the transmission, a long bolt holding on a bracket on the passenger side top, the long starter bolt (other starter stud is still in- does it need to come out? the nut is already off). I'm taken off some other smaller bolts from the topside that go in vertically, but they look like they just hold in brackets. Am I missing one? I read in several places that there were 6, but by my count I've only got 5?? :-\

[gbrand]

On my 91 Legacy, did the clutch mid-Nov 2006 (Again), and the 4 bolts/nuts you mentioned are all that held the E and T together. As I recall same was true on my old 80 EA71 also. They can be a beeach to seperate, try to make sure you supporting the E and T to aviod uneven loading and possibly bening the input shaft. BTW, I have done my Legacy both ways-first by dropping transmission, then this lastest time by pulling engine forward and up.

 

make sure you have anything that could contrain the move movent of engine and or trans-exhaust, including where bolts near transmission rear, pitching stopper, etc. If it doesnt hinder you getting it seperated it may prevent you from sliding them back together.

 

Also be careful not to lose/break the TO bearing to fork clips-dealer only item, but my LUK clutch kit came with a set, thankfully as I was working on the weekend after the dealers were closed and one of mine had gone AWOL

 

Let us know how you do.

[wondercow2]

Thanks for the tips. I've got new clips on order at the dealer already along with a separator plate and main seal.

 

I'm attempting the move-engine-forward route, but if it's not working I've got all week to drop the transmission. It was pretty easy getting everything off up front, and there's a ton of room to slide the engine forward. Just need to break the bloody transmission off now (off to spray more PB Blaster).

 

Are there any particular places where I can give either the transmission or engine a good whack? Any special tricks? I was thinking about reinstalling the pitch stopper and using that to pin the transmission down while I genlty jack on the oil pan to try and get some pressure on the mating surface, but I'm worried it might easily snap a pin or something.,

[gbrand]

I am assuming you have double checked to make sure exhaust pipes are clear of manifold studs and engine is jacked up(or hoisted up) far enough for motor mount studs to be out and above crossmember. Jacking up engine may relieve stress to allow you to break it loose or you may see a gap open up-again a lot depends on how you have the E and T supported. If you are this far on the "engine move" plan no sense changing to pulling the trans., hard to seperate is hard to seperate no matter which approach you take. I personally took the engine out approach on mine as more work could be done from above the car, and dissassy/reassy of the shifter bushings was a PIA under the car. Also was given an engine hoist a couple years ago, makes life a lttle easier when you need one...

 

Let us know.

[wondercow2]

Update: used some gentle prying to separate the two pieces, but now I need an engine hoist. The oil pan is too lumpy to balance a jack on (even with a block of wood), so it's impossible to keep it level and move it back toward the radiator at the same time.

 

I got it jacked up far enough and held far enough back with a come-along to get the clutch and flywheel off, but there's no way I can put the engine back in this way. Off to the machine shop and tool rental place tomorrow...