gbrand

OK thanks, went out and retried again, I could hear solenoid clicking and after 10 or so quick actuations it opened! I put some grease and spray lube on the latch mechanism once open, and operated repeatedly-so far so good, seemed to be easier than before. will keep everyone posted if it craps again and what has to be done to fix. USMB is a great BBS

2012 NA forester. unlock using door button and fob. rear hatch will unlatch one "click" and open a crack but not fully release. No button on dash, this latch appears to be all electric No mechanical mechanism. did not see anything in this forum, other info on net was many others had problem, but no definitive solution. there was a post to a reset procedure but the link didn't work. Have not changed battery in car for over a year and worked fine after that up til last week. Any help appreciated, thanks

yes, you are on the right to track to get to the To bearing-drop exhaust, pull radiator, you may need to jack up engine slightly. Be careful with the clips that attach the TO bearing to fork, they fly off and are only available from dealer IIRC good luck

if battery is OE would get it tested-my 12 forester had some slow cranks and then died stone dead 2 weekends ago-would not even take a jump-was 400 miles from home but had a friend take me to buy a new battery and got on the road-you may want to jump with another battry to see if the problem improves-or replace with another battery if you have one to swap.

if it is not a TO bearing I'll buy you a beer-it will get worse-been there did that on my 91 leg..and 80 SW.. can pull engine forward and up a little to access....if you do with the mileage you have would highly recommend replacing clutch fork too-mine on Leg had the ball "socket" in the fork crater and split out requiring replacement, had to get part from dealer, take your VIN to order. had to separate engine and trans again wish I had replaced as part of clutch job

my 2012 2.5 na Forester does use oil-have been racking, just got done with 800 mile trip and used 1/2 Q. seems to be about average rate that seems excessive, but does vary-will post my detail and I need to type up and at least make a record of a complaint to SUBARU. got 2 yr ago at 58K now has about 76K

OK we bought 2012 2.5 NA Forester in jan 15-salesman told us they would include GOLD 100K/7 year from orig delivery in Nov 11 with vehicle, reviewed in detail the coverage brochure - at closing the wanted to charge us $1xxx-told them no deal, called in salesman and we reviewed the brochure and the detail of what he told us-he clearly FU'd and they called in sales mgr and after an hour and a half behind closed doors they emerged to tell the closing clerks they would honor the commitment to zero charge but there was an odor of roasted flesh throughout the dealership. probably didn't hurt it was Saturday the last day of the month. Used once so far, independent shop found front struts were leaking during tire rotation, offered to replace for 500 some dollars....took back to selling dealer and replaced for 100 deductible and 100 for an alignment. So has paid for itself for my cost The other thing to consider is you must keep maintained up to factory schedule to keep warranty in effect-for us the 7500 mi interval for cabin air filer seems ludicrous, the filters are almost pristine when I change them. Also the fuel filter at 60K that 2 dealership says don't exist, we replaced the sock on the intake of the fuel pump assyas it was the only possible thing we could find before calling the dealerships

Searched but didn't see anything 2012 2.5 NA Forester-alt working fine, I have voltmeter on my dash. Sun am 400 mi from home battery stone dead no warnong, will not take a jump. My jumper cables and toolbox were ABOVE the rear cargo cover, but had some other tools and stuff below. Car had been locked, unlocked drivers door with key, and used unlock buttons on other doors to open. Read hatch would open one click but but all the way-so if my stuff was below I would have been up a creek. se a small panel on the inside of the hatch, not sure of a way to unlock-has anyone had to do? Of course no key for back.... Buddy gave me ride to parts store and new battery worked like a champ Thanks in advance

OK been off the board for a bit-got the 91 leg 2.2 FWD 5spd at 110K -did normal maint TB WP VC gaskets etc. went thru a couple clutch's, once got flywheel turned they dint seem to g bad any more. brakes and of course a few CV boots. at 310K was a little rough but still ran OK, air idle valve a little squirrely but engine and trans strong. AC was out, and started screeching like a banshee and was timing belt pulley bearing- - sold on CL to a guy that wanted donor car to fix up his wife's car-after he and his buddy looked said they would switch to his wife's car to be the donor car.......

Spousal unit took to dealer today for brake line corrosion recall fix, asked about procedure. They told her, oh yeah you have to check the lubricant or the bearings could fail. She called Bull excrement, and said they are sealed bearings and press fit in so HTF do you inspect the lubricant "level"? They admitted that unless they were loose or noisy there is no indication there is a problem-what we all knew to begin with. Thanks to all for input, will check as I perform all of the other legit 60K items. glad to be back active on the board again , and to have a Sube in the fleet again

thanks, if you look at the maintenance schedule in the OEM manual, this is included at 60K and 120K-the warranty is Subaru Warranty to 7 years or 100K, states all required maintenance be performed per schedule to keep in effect. Let me know if anyone has any other bright ideas, has to go back to dealer this week to fix brake line recall, may get spousal unit to see if she can ask get more information.........

getting ready to do 60K service, required to keep extended warranty in force, most steps look straight forward but this step called out for is a little bit baffling-are these bearings different than the old style press fits that I don't see a way to inspect without disassembly-and would think you might as well replace. Every 60K seems a bit often. I searched and found much information on diagnosis and replacement, but nothing to address this topic. Thanks

IIRC, disconnect exhaust at each head and drop Y pipe, motor mounts, maybe pull radiator and fans, and any hoses/wires that would be stretched would allow engine to move forward. I ONCE changed my clutch by pulling the trans, even being a FWD was a pain after that the engine was moved/pulled for any clutch work. Let us know what you find

On my 91 Legacy the release pivoted on ball stud and finally cracked/wollowed out so wouldn't pivot any more-new lever fixed fine-be careful there are two little clps that I think hold the Throw out bearing to the release lever-can get lost VERY easily. I was able to separate engine and trans moving engine forward to get enough room to do

OK was looking at a new travel car, picked up a 2012 forester w/57K today, base model. Seems to run drive stop fine, drive home was in rain but no hint of slip or skidding....as expected.......glad to be back in the Sube world again, will be watching the board closer now........