wondercow2

Be careful about the boots and bump stops. I bought Moog boots, and whatever the local big box parts store had for bump stops. The stops did NOT fit, but I was frustrated enough to ream out the holes so that they would fit. The Moog boots were also disappointing - they were OK in the front by the backs did not attach very neatly. If I were doing it again I'd reuse the boots, and pay for OEM or comparable bump stops. I would also keep the strut mounts - I replaced with KYB, but the old ones were OK after nearly 20 years and 180k miles.

perfect!! Ordered from ebay for about the price of a spring bolt kit and a gasket.

Thanks for the replies. I haven't pulled the resonator pipe off yet but might go with a straight pipe if it's too far gone. I think I'm going to try the flex joint - local suppliers don't seem to have bolt-on or weld-on donut flanges? Do they have another name I should be looking for? In any case by the time I add on the cost of a donut and the spring bolt kit, I'm already up to what a short flex joint costs.

I've finally had to order a new set of catalytic converters for my '98 Legacy after an un-patchable failure. The problem is, I chopped off the end of the resonator pipe to deal with a broken flange at the donut gasket many years ago. For my most recent patch job I joined the resonator pipe to what was left of the rear cat with a spiral-coil flex pipe, but I think this was too rigid and helped accelerate the failure of the cat pipe further up in the exhaust. I really don't want to replace the resonator pipe if I can avoid it (it's already got a patch at the failed flange to the muffler...). I'm not sure if I can find a donut gasket flange to weld or clamp on. Is it safe to join the resonator and rear cat with a higher-quality flex joint (the stainless braided type)? I've replaced so many parts I'm not sure what's supposed to be down there anymore. As far as I can tell the cats are held rigid only by the y-pipe and the rigid hanger on the rear cat, and do not have a flexible mount. The resonator pipe and muffler are all on rubber hangar. Is this right?

Google turned this up: http://teloshop.com/p/119990/m11x125-hole-headlamp-adjuster-nut-15-count.html I will look around, I think I still have some that I am never going to use - happy to mail them to you. Send me your address via private message.

The automatics do (or at least did) a 90/10 split, but the 5-speeds were 50/50. Obsessing over the numbers is not very productive for a car shopper. Whatever the mechanical details, the power distribution system & weight distribution of the Subaru makes for a much better AWD experience then many other SUVs and trucks. Edit: See this page for comparisons. http://www.awdwiki.com/en/subaru/ Apparently the autos are more like 80/20 after 1996 (?), and the newer CVT is 60/40 (we have one of these in a 2014 Impreza and have never had issues getting stuck in serious UP winters).

FYI, the 1998 Legacy (not outback) wagon does NOT seem to have a connector. 1997s do seem to have them. I ripped the entire rear interior out of my '98 looking for it, and thoroughly examined the wiring loom and cable harnesses on both sides. I wound up using vampire taps - not ideal, but trailer lights don't draw that much current.

I drilled out the old nipple and soldered in a piece of copper tubing. Seems to be airtight, but we'll see. Can't test, because I found a crack in the canister! (probably caused by me twisting it during a fight with rusty bolts). Waiting for sealant to dry overnight before re-installing.

I traced a P0440 code to a broken hose nipple in the evap mess near the charcoal canister on my 1998 Legacy L. I see the part I need on the Opposed Forces diagram (part #22), but there is no OEM part number given! I've looked at a couple of online dealers but they keep giving me the old-style evap diagram instead of the new-style. (http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_24/intake_and_supply_system_turbocharger/fuel_piping/illustration_6/) Is this part available? I am tempted to clean it up and just braze or epoxy a new nipple on.

+1 on the write-up. I did this last year and found that it was very difficult to translate what I read and saw in blurry pictures to what I saw under the car. It's a very awkward place to work, at least without a lift. I had to use a torch to get the old joint off.

How much CV and steering geometry trouble will the '04-'08 Forester strut-spring-tophat combo cause on a BK legacy without adding the subframe spacers? I am seeing all kinds of conflicting information about 1.5" effective lift on a 2nd gen legacy vs 3.5-4" lift. Is the higher number from the forester springs and tophats? I have a stock '98 Legacy L that needs new struts but at 185k miles the springs and tophats probably need to go too, and the Forester struts are available as a complete quick strut at a good price. I am willing to add the outback rear trailing arm brackets and maybe play with sway bar links, but adding the subframe spacers, a new steering coupler, etc. is just not worth it for me. I'd be happy with the 1-1.5" from OB struts but getting new OB springs is pricey; only the dealerships seem to stock them.

If you're referring to the plastic inserts that take the ball end of the adjusters, I did manage to find some online. http://www.pointe-products.com/cdcatalogprint.aspx?ItemClass=06W&SubCatId=424 Scroll down to 95-7396-CP M11X12.5 Hole Headlamp Adjuster Nut Toyota Camry '94/ - Headlamp Adjusting Nut. It's identical to the Subaru adjuster, although these made from a less durable clear-colored plastic. I have a few of these leftover if you don't want to buy a full bag. I have not found adjuster rods, but these could be whipped up with a long screw, a ball bearing, and a blast from a welder or some JB-Weld...

Belated update: Replaced inner and out tie rods on both sides AND the ball joints for good measure. STILL a vibration when braking, but it's not as bad as before. The good news is I have a new theory- upper strut mount. When the ball joint was out of the passenger side knuckle, there was a LOT of play in the entire strut/knuckle assembly. I didn't notice a similar play on the drivers' side, but I had such a bear of time getting out one ball joint that I wasn't really paying attention. The strut should be more or less rigid whether it's connected to the control arm or not, correct? I am under the impression that the strut mount allows the strut and knuckle to rotate, not move side to side and in and out.

Sorry to dredge up a dead thread, but I'm having some front-end problems too. I thought it was the brakes, for sure - I had put new rotors and pads on a year or two ago, but the calipers were getting very, very rusty (rough surface on caliper slides, not enough material to resurface without a machine shop). I put rotors, pads, and calipers on the front this weekend. Guess what? Still vibrates! The only thing I didn't replace was the caliper bracket - can this realistically get warped or out of shape? On the passenger side, the fit between the pad is really tight on one side between the pad and the bracket insert clip thingy. It was like this before, with old clips and pads, and remains the same with new clips and new pads. I know my back brakes are a wreck too, but I don't see how they could really contribute to steering wheel shimmy in addition to brake pedal feel. A ball joint or even a wheel bearing also be a culprit? The car has 160k on it.

Took me forever to find them, and they're not very good (broke several trying to use the adjusters, but my adjusting rods are slightly bent too and the headlight housing is a mess). http://www.amazon.com/M11X12-5-Hole-Headlamp-Adjuster-count/dp/B0013GJMP4/ref=wl_it_dp_o?ie=UTF8&coliid=I1FGVLWI2RAA5N&colid=3SRTRROQ7V1H If you only want a few, PM me, I could sell a couple of mine for much less than $10+$10 shipping.