lyonsnet Posted January 10, 2007 Share Posted January 10, 2007 Hey all, I have a 1996 OBW, 2.5 Auto. About 1.5 months ago, the AT OIL TEMP light started to flash 16 times on start up. I also noticed the torque bind I've read so much about in this forum. So I ran to the Sub dealer, and after plugging the car into the computer, they quoted I needed to replace transfer clutch valve assembly, meaning transfer clutch plate set and re-seal transmission oil pan. Estimate $850+tax CDN I asked if I could still drive the car without damage, and they said yes, as long as I could live with the binding and increased gas consumption. They also had to order the parts which would take a week or less. Because of my limited budget, this I could live with. And, for the 2 weeks afterwards, the AT OIL TEMP light and TB was intermittent. I would go 2-3 days with no problem. I also found the many suggestions on this forum regarging TB, and have tried the following: - I added 1 bottle of limited slip diff to the transmission. The problem went away for at least a full tank (~500km) then came back. - I did the transmission drain and re-fill with dexron III 4 times. The TB is much better, but the light still flashes. - I mounted my winter tires, which are almost new, less than 10,000 km (the summer all-seasons I ran were pretty much worn and won't be going on again. The problem almost went away with the snows on. Now, 6 weeks after the problem began, the light flashes each time I start, and the TB is back. It's not as bad as at first, but it's enough that I am bothered by it and want to fix it and move on. So, should I bite the bullet and get Subaru to replace the clutch assembly (I have the funds now, )? Is there anything else I can try? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted January 10, 2007 Share Posted January 10, 2007 You could remove the Transfer clutch section of your tranny and replace the valve yourself. The intermnitentness of the flashing indicates to me that you've got a failed Duty solenoid C. Not neccesarilly the valve.(I don't know how a valve stuck could send info to the TCU to generate a code). There is no need to remove the transmission oil pan to get at it. And no reason to replace the tranfser clutch itself, except for the "while we're in there" philosophy. Valve and solenoid are in the tail section of the transmission. The transfer valve can be inspected and you could clean/deburr it to check for smoothness. How does it affect it when you insert the FWD fuse under the hood? If it doesn't change the TB at all then you probaly have a bad duty solenoid. If it alters the TB, but doesn't eleminate it then you're duty solenoid is working. Then the problem may well be the valve stuck open letting too much pressure through. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted January 10, 2007 Share Posted January 10, 2007 I have a 1996 OBW, 2.5 Auto. About 1.5 months ago, the AT OIL TEMP light started to flash 16 times on start up. I also noticed the torque bind I've read so much about in this forum.[...] Now, 6 weeks after the problem began, the light flashes each time I start, and the TB is back. It's not as bad as at first, but it's enough that I am bothered by it and want to fix it and move on. [...] Is there anything else I can try? The problem may be electrically related, specifically a defective "C duty solenoid". That can also damage the transfer clutch, but if the problem hasn't been ongoing for too long perhaps not. There's a procedure utilizing an under-dash diagnostic connector that you can do to retrieve the exact trouble code (the AT OIL TEMP LIGHT can do more than flash the 16-times warning). With that, it could become easier to suggest a proper approach to repair. I'll get back with info on doing the diagnostic procedure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted January 10, 2007 Share Posted January 10, 2007 [...]I'll get back with info on doing the diagnostic procedure. If you're comfortable doing electrical work, then the following should allow you to get the code(s): The diagnostic connector (B82) is a black six-terminal one. It's located under the dash, above the brake pedal, and might be taped up to an electrical harness along with two grounded probe terminals. The attachment in post http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=556658 explains how to use that connector for ABS diagnosis; if a grounded probe terminal is inserted into #5 (rather than #6) of B82, the AT diagnosis is selected instead of the ABS. With the engine off, insert one of the grounded terminals into B82 #5, turn the ignition ON, and count the long and short flashes. These have further info on AT trouble code retrieval: http://endwrench.com/pdf/feb2004pdf/4EAT.pdf pages 12 & 13 http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/4EAatPh2Win04.pdf page 24 http://www.endwrench.com/pdf/drivetrain/02Winter4EATDiagServ.pdf pages 20 & 21 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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