I know, I just can't stop asking questions about this.....

 

Now I need to know what the bracket on the side of a diff locker box looks like. I have made up something using a S/R lever and vacuum thingy, but it doesn't seem to work. I really can't see how one of these vacuum things can pull and push 50Nm.... But I know they are what is used, and this is what I have come up with. Both pics are in the unlocked position. The lever goes to the left of the picture when in the locked position.

 

Now, whats it suppose to look like!!?

While hardly an "expert", I have found over the years you get your best cable/lever action when you try to get your stuff working at "right angles" (90 degrees). If you follow a line described by your cable (try laying a ruler along it) the lever should drop off the line at 90 degrees to it's pivot point. In your situation too, because of the short unsupported cable run (because when the action of the lever takes place it operates in an arc) it is also helpful to allow the cable mount to pivot a bit, maintaining that magic 90 degrees, allowing full mechanical advantage.

 

If I found myself in a similar situation (and I will be shortly) I am going to use a PTO control type of cable, instead of a morse type, because the situation does not require a fully supported cable (or such rigid "positive" action) requiring the use of a pivoting mount. Without a pivoting mount in this situation you are fighting the cable more than you are making the shift.

I have a ft4wd tranny in the shed and will take some picture after I get the hub-pin (or whatever you may call it) out of the hub...

 

 

 

 

there you go, hope this clears things up a bit

While hardly an "expert", I have found over the years you get your best cable/lever action when you try to get your stuff working at "right angles" (90 degrees). If you follow a line described by your cable (try laying a ruler along it) the lever should drop off the line at 90 degrees to it's pivot point. In your situation too, because of the short unsupported cable run (because when the action of the lever takes place it operates in an arc) it is also helpful to allow the cable mount to pivot a bit, maintaining that magic 90 degrees, allowing full mechanical advantage.

Agreed 100%. But as you can see there really isn't enough adjustment in the cable to do that without making a bracket out of steel and doing what the original looks like in the photo's now shown. I have mounted mine where the bolts are on the case.

 

It looks like the lever is ment to be bigger, hmm. I was told the push button 4WD trans lever would work by a guy who owns a Subaru repair and modification show (who I got the trans off of, as they are import only items here in Australia.)

 

So by the look of it, I need a lever with a longer arm, and to bring the mount up from where the cable sits atm.

 

I guess I am going to have to make a new arm, as it's going to be as hard as finding a needle in a hay stack getting the original.

joostvdw, thanks mate.

 

Heres what I have in mind. Drill out the holes in my bracket so it points the cable in a more level line along the gearbox. Shorten the adjuster part on the cable to get the shortest setup so the lever is closer to 90degrees. And figure out some thing to get the lever longer... Hopefully that will work.

Alright.. I should really update this thread now...

 

Here is the final creation that worked.. But here is why the others didn't!

 

When I was putting the gearbox back together I missed out the dowel pins that hold the rear casing exactly right with the front two halves. This ment it was off by about 0.5mm and wouldn't engage. After loosing the bolts and putting the pins in I could ************ the diff locker with a screw driver the the shaft and my hand. !

 

Some more pictures, just because.

 

The lever is a modified S/R push button 4WD lever.. Sorry, I don't have pictures of it before I cut it up. And as you can see there are a few holes that seem unneeded, thats me going through to many creations of the setup.

 

I also have to cut the threads down on the vacuum solenoids cable to make up for the extra distance the original bracket had.