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My Soob died- Have some questions about towing


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Well, my Soob popped on me today. Started it up to leave work, before I could put it in reverse the engine shuddered, continued to idle like it were on 3 cylinders and white smoke began to pour out the exhaust.

 

Work is 30+ miles from home (mostly freeway). I'm going to have to tow it this weekend but I need to know if there's anything I should know?

 

85 GL wagon ea82 push-button 4WD automatic.

 

Can you use an axle dolly on these or do I have to disconnect the driveshaft? If so I'll just get a flatbed for an extra $25

 

Thanks,

 

BTW, I got a subaru for sale! :Flame:

 

Just thought I'd mention, I did happen to read the post a few threads down about towing but it seems rather inconclusive whether or not the driveshaft needs to be disconnected. Plus mines an automatic. Normally FWD if that means anything.

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I had a friend push my dead 3AT with his truck ~15 miles, no ill effects. No highways:) Don't try this at home. You have to expect the brakes and steering to be heavy & sluggish.

 

If you are going to hire a tow, for $25, I'd just do the flatbed.

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I had a friend push my dead 3AT with his truck ~15 miles, no ill effects. No highways:) Don't try this at home. You have to expect the brakes and steering to be heavy & sluggish.

 

If you are going to hire a tow, for $25, I'd just do the flatbed.

 

Unfortunately, I HAVE to take the freeway for 90% of my trip and the State Patrol would be all over me if I pushed or rope-towed it.

 

I was going to rent a car dolly from Uhaul for $40 and tow it with my truck. Its $50 for a flatbed but I'm having a hard time locating one. So I need to know if the dolly is an option (with out dropping the driveshaft).

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You can tow an auto short distances BUT should not exceed about 20 mph.

Unbolt the driveshaft at the rear diff (4 bolts) then move it sideways and just strap /rope it to the exhaust or other body part. Then use the tow dolly. Good luck. r/ PK

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Ah, it becomes more clear now...

 

Since the transmission is not pumping oil, things aren't lubricated as they should be. Even on level ground, the ATF will pour out of the tail of the trnsmission if you pull the driveshaft - with the front up on a dolly, more oil will be back there. At some slow speed, I doubt much would be hurt. At some high speed, maybe bad things could happen. From looking at the drawings in the FSM, I don't see anything more than a bearing and one side of the transfer clutch connected to the driveshaft. Turning in oil, how bad can it be? Maybe someone else has tried it, I haven't. I think we hit 40MPH max a few times.

 

Dropping the driveshaft is 8) 12mm nuts & bolts on the rear piece - behind the center bearing to the diff. Those bolts can be a pain, because one side is hard to get a wrench onto.

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The problem is that the automatics should not be towed without the engine running, unless the front wheels are off the ground and the driveshaft disconnected. Damage to the transfer clutch will ensue quickly without the engine to pump the oil and keep it lubricated. This is different from a manual transmission.

 

Safest bet with an automatic, disconnect the rear driveshaft, or put it on a flat bed.

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Only the rear portion of the shaft needs to be removed. With the front wheels up, and with it in 2wd obviously the rear drivshaft will not be turned by the tranny so just unbolting the rear flange and wiring the driveshaft to the body off to the side. As far as getting to the nuts, do 2, roll car forward a foot, do the other 2. The whole rear section can be removed at both ends if you like. The front portion and carrier bearing stay in place and keep the rear of tranny sealed.

 

I had to drive my 85 gl with D/R like this for quite a while when it got stuck in 4 low. 2wd LO!:headbang:

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