The newer subaru strut assemblies have a way to adjust camber. Is there a way to just bring the struts to the car, and not the rotors and hubs? Although the part that the strut bolts to, and the bearings are in will have to come with the strut.

 

thanks del

 

ps I like my current 4wheel disc brake set up with six lugs and 14" wheels. Would prefer to ware out my tires evenly, not to mention it handles better with the camber in order. I am planning a 4" lift in front.

 

1988 GL station wagon

non turbo 5sp dr

short version....no

 

in order to get the camber adjustment, you need the struts AND knuckles. and EA hubs and axles aren't compatible with EJ knuckles, baccaruda got his XT6 calipers to bolt to his legacy knuckles...but IIRC it took alot of fabrication.

 

 

the easier way, would be to modify the control arm (or the point where it bolts to the crossmember) to push the bottom of the knuckle out slightly. of course, then you'll run a slightly higher risk of over-extending the front axles....

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=69643

 

Read page 4 for the camber adjusters I made. These would work on EA82's as well.

thanks guys:cool:

 

guess it is time to modify my extra crossmember and build a lift. Having a parts car comes in handy.

 

del

guess it is time to modify my extra crossmember and build a lift.

Be warned. If you want to do the kinda camber kit I done, drilling a huge hole in the engine crossmember IS a nightmare.. Took my brother and I at least 30mins of drilling and about 2 hours for drinks and catching our breath while the drill cooled down to get all 4 holes.

It might be different if you can have the crossmember out and use a drill press...

Since the parts car this crossmember is in has no engine should be easy enough to take out and use the drill press, or could a torch take it out? It appears the arm is now not dependent on this for centering (the cam is now doing this job).

 

del

Since the parts this crossmember is in has no engine should be easy enough to take out and use the drill press, or could a torch take it out? It appears the arm is now not dependent on this for centering (the cam is now doing this job).

 

del

Hmm, I rought hole torched through may work. I haven't giving that any thought. The bits that are welded to the crossmember will take most of the impacts then. The drill bit didn't leave a nice sight, I had to do a bit of cleaning up with a file afterwards.