bolt holding tensioner broke off

[ca95965]

I have a guy over working on my '87 GL. We thought that it needed a driver's side belt. He just found that the bolt holding the tensioner on had broken. We wonder if maybe that's why the belt had a problem in the first place (the belt's not broken, but is worn).

 

He's not a Suburu expert and is reluctant to continue. When I asked him if the end of the bolt could be drilled out he said that he's worried that it might strip the thread or that the bolt end might fall into the block.

 

It's a big deal that after many months I finally found someone to come up here and work on my car, but I don't want to proceed if it's dangerous to do so. We decided to ask you experts about this. My options are to find a way to proceed or leave the car sitting for an indefinite period of time. I really need the car but my remote location and finances prohibit me from calling a master mechanic in to do the job.

 

Should we proceed? If so, how can we do that safely?

 

Any help greatly appreciated.

 

Mary

[daeron]

okay, two possibilities

 

1: there is still some of the bolt protruding out of the hole

 

2: the bolt has sheared off flush with the block, or recessed inside it

 

 

Secnario 1: easiest way is to remove the radiator for better access (not an incredibly big deal, the hardest part is likely to be removing the hoses that are on the thing) Then your friend could use a pair of vise grips to remove the bolt. If needs be, take a dremel or grinder of some sort and grind two flat spots on it for the vise grips to hold onto better...

 

Scenario 2: also, remove the radiator for easier access, and get your friend to try drilling it out. do NOT let him use an easy-out, these things are BAD JUJU.. its just that these "easy-outs" frequently bind up, and snap off inside the bolt.. have him center punch the remains of the bolt as best he can, drill it with a small bit first, then gradually step up to larger bits. Worst case scenario in this situation, he cannot successfully get a hole cenetered, and winds up slightly stripping out the threads. In that case, he will need to go get something called a Heli-coil set, which is used to drill an oversized hole, tap it and thread a small insert in there that has thread on the inside of it for your new tensioner bolt.

 

This is a crummy situation, but these are the best ways to proceed in either scenario.

 

Hope this helps...

[ca95965]

Oh, thank you thank you SO much. It's a bit recessed. I wondered why we weren't removing the radiator in the first place, cuz it sure does seem to be in the way.

 

I am happy for the information you gave. I'll be very careful with the drilling.

 

Thanks again.

Mary

 

okay, two possibilities

 

1: there is still some of the bolt protruding out of the hole

 

2: the bolt has sheared off flush with the block, or recessed inside it

 

 

Secnario 1: easiest way is to remove the radiator for better access (not an incredibly big deal, the hardest part is likely to be removing the hoses that are on the thing) Then your friend could use a pair of vise grips to remove the bolt. If needs be, take a dremel or grinder of some sort and grind two flat spots on it for the vise grips to hold onto better...

 

Scenario 2: also, remove the radiator for easier access, and get your friend to try drilling it out. do NOT let him use an easy-out, these things are BAD JUJU.. its just that these "easy-outs" frequently bind up, and snap off inside the bolt.. have him center punch the remains of the bolt as best he can, drill it with a small bit first, then gradually step up to larger bits. Worst case scenario in this situation, he cannot successfully get a hole cenetered, and winds up slightly stripping out the threads. In that case, he will need to go get something called a Heli-coil set, which is used to drill an oversized hole, tap it and thread a small insert in there that has thread on the inside of it for your new tensioner bolt.

 

This is a crummy situation, but these are the best ways to proceed in either scenario.

 

Hope this helps...

[idosubaru]

first step - tatoo on your head "NO EZ OUTS!!" they suck, they break all the time and create far more problems than they ever solve. they should be illegal.

 

two easy ways to remove it. one is to weld another bolt or nut to it. but if you can't weld or have no access to the bolt then no dice.

 

another easy method is to cut a slot in the top of the remaining bolt so you can use a stout screwdriver on it. if it's recessed im not sure youll get a good slot cut in it.

 

if you attempt to drill it out, get a left handed drill bit. they will help back the bolt out while you're drilling. removing the radiator and all helps, hitting it straight on is your best bet and less risky. i have a right angle drill and drill attachment that allows you to do it from above, but even with that it's still harder to get it straight and see what yo'ure doing. but if you have radiators and A/C stuff in the way sometimes it's a good option. don't forget the left handed drill bit, that's the way to go on this one.

 

if the bolt is recessed alot, then is it possible to use a really short bolt in the threads that are still there? i think these tensioners have two bolts, so one won't be necessarily carrying any load if the other is holding the tensioner to the block. might be worth a shot. if there's enough room and depending which one it is, i might be tempted to stick a short bolt in there with some locktite (the non-permanent kind of course!).

 

if you get the bolt out and in the process of doing that you bunged up the threads, no worries. chase them with a die. and remember that these holes are longer than the bolts used in them. so if your threads are jacked up, get a longer than stock bolt, it will reach the brand new, never used threads at the bottom of the hole and hold just fine.

 

good luck and let us know how it goes.

[ca95965]

There must be some creative solution - we don't have a 21mm socket and don't have an impact wrench. We have tried open-ended wrenches, pipe wrenches, and even found a lug wrench that fit, but even with the radiator off there's just no room for turn or torque. None of the wrenches we have will fit down in there so that the tool is able to slide over the nut.

 

Is THIS something I should consider drilling out too? My friend thinks not, but we're many many miles from stores and if there's some oddball way to make it work I would love to hear of one.

Thanks in advance,

Mary

 

Oh, thank you thank you SO much. It's a bit recessed. I wondered why we weren't removing the radiator in the first place, cuz it sure does seem to be in the way.

 

I am happy for the information you gave. I'll be very careful with the drilling.

 

Thanks again.

Mary

[daeron]

without a socket, there is no creative solution. an auto parts store should stock the socket you need.... and you pretty much need it.

 

Once you have the socket, the "creative solution" is to jack the car as high as you can get it, support it on jackstands, fit a breaker bar onto the socket, and put the longest, heaviest pipe you can find/fit onto the end of the breaker bar. Then turn the engine over, smacking the pipe into the ground, and breaking loose the bolt. DO take precautions not to let the engine start, however... (spark plug wire pulled, or something....)

 

Ditto grossgary's comments on drilling things out.

[ca95965]

Thanks, you're obviously right. Hey, should I take the tensioner into town when I go tomorrow and ask an auto parts person if it should be replaced? Is there a way to tell by looking at it?

Mary

[idosubaru]

you're having trouble with what the crank pulley bolt? 21 or 22mm bolt i believe? put it in gear (manual) with the emergency brake on or someone holding the brake pedal down and loosen. or if it's an automatic then under the throttle body is an access hole with a rubber plug in it (or that could be missing). rotate the engine until you see a rectangular-ish hole in the flexplate of the trans and put a socket extension in there to hold it in place while you back the crank bolt off. these thing i just mentioned will keep the engine from turning over while you loosen the bolt.

 

if the problem is getting the bolt itself off, then use the starter method. shouldn't be done unless you're very careful and know what you're doing. but works every single time and takes literally less than a minute. install socket on bolt. knowing the way of rotation, have the socket resting against something very solid and hit the starter. do not start the car, just use the starter to turn the motor over. the socket will hold the bolt in place while the starter/engine cranks over and the bolt will loosen. on an XT6 it's super easy because it has a front engine mount to rest the socket against. an EA82 is a little trickier finding something to rest it against....a long pipe to reach the frame rails is ideal.

 

this works every time.

 

as far as the tensioner, you should be able to inspect it yourself. if the pulley spins without too much noise or resistance then it's likely fine. be advised though they are typically onisey by now as they don't have much grease in them.