Leg93 Posted May 1, 2007 Share Posted May 1, 2007 Hi all! It's been a while. That's a good testimonial to the reliability of my Subaru, and my lack of technical knowledge to contribute. I need a little help. I have a 98 Forester AWD, 2.2, 5 spd with 103K miles on it (anything else you need to know?). I've only owned it for about 5000 miles and the clutch has always been a little 'springy'. I have just attributed it to the fact I've been driving automatics for 5+ years. Today it felt like the bottom fell out, kind of all of a sudden. The clutch only engages with the pedal near the floor. I have to stand on it to get it to engage for 1st gear sometimes. It seems to shift fine when engaged, no sounds, roughness, slipping gears, or anything like that. I drove it about 75 miles today, holding 80MPH most of the time, and felt some hesitation...like hiccups...while just holding it steady on the freeway. It's probably time for a fuel filter and basic maintenance there. In town it's tough to shift smoothly because the pedal basically falls to the floor, engages lightly the last inch or two of travel, then springs back. So, that's my story. What do you think? New clutch required? Simple adjustment? I have never changed a clutch before and honestly don't know much about the mechanics of the clutch. I appreciate any help you can offer. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted May 1, 2007 Share Posted May 1, 2007 This is a hydraulic clutch, so nothing to adjust (technically). I wonder if something happened to your clutch fork. The springy part has me curious. I would check the clutch fluid and see if its all there, and what condition its in. Since it is there all the time, i dont think its a failing slave cylinder, but i wouldnt rule it out. The Throw Out Bearing is held on by two clips, I wonder if you lost one of those. Is that hiccup a hiccup or a clutch slip? nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leg93 Posted May 1, 2007 Author Share Posted May 1, 2007 Is that hiccup a hiccup or a clutch slip? nipper Good question. I would guess that with clutch slip the RPM's head north as though the clutch were engaged. I didn't notice that. Although, the hesitations were very brief and by the time I looked at the gauges it was over. I had the AC on and didn't notice a differnece with it off. I'll go out and check the fluid levels now. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leg93 Posted May 1, 2007 Author Share Posted May 1, 2007 Good question. I would guess that with clutch slip the RPM's head north as though the clutch were engaged. I didn't notice that. Although, the hesitations were very brief and by the time I looked at the gauges it was over. I had the AC on and didn't notice a differnece with it off. I'll go out and check the fluid levels now. Thanks. I tried attaching photos, but I can't get them under 50KB. The fluid is between min and max (reservoir near the firewall, towards the passenger side from the brake fluid res., correct?). The fluid looks dark. When I put my finger in it the fluid on my finger was clear with dirty fluid on my finger tip. So, dirty with a lot of sediment, not well mixed. Make sense? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leg93 Posted May 2, 2007 Author Share Posted May 2, 2007 When I started it up this morning everything seemed fine for a while. Then it seemed loose again, firmed back up. Kind of weird. I wonder if bleeding and changing the hydraulic fluid would make a difference. I tested it at at about 1/2 inch above the floor, shifting from 1st to R and back several times. It shifted smoothly. There is just so little resistance in the pedal. Weird. Any other suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted May 2, 2007 Share Posted May 2, 2007 Ok then im going for a bad slave (which is affected by heat) or master cylinder. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leg93 Posted May 2, 2007 Author Share Posted May 2, 2007 Thanks for the reply. So, is there something I can do to test without just replacing, or is replacing the test? I was looking at the diagram in the Haynes manual yesterday and it clearly identified the master cylinder...kind of, but I'm unclear on the slave. Any help here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted May 2, 2007 Share Posted May 2, 2007 Just use the hose Luke, use the hose..... It is on the transmission near the top of the bell housing about 2 oclock. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leg93 Posted May 2, 2007 Author Share Posted May 2, 2007 Last time I had a run in with a Jedi mechanic he waved his hand in front of my face and said, ''$90 an hour IS a good price...'' So, is there a test, or do I just change them? Has anybody used ''Dorman'' brand parts? I can get a Dorman Master Cylinder for $53 online. Most places are $90+. Thoughts on parts quality issues from anyone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted May 2, 2007 Share Posted May 2, 2007 Usually i replace both the master and the slave at the same time, since they both operate the same. If your shifting fine, no slipping no odd noises then usually its the Hyd clutch parts. Remember the Hyd clutch sees up to ten times more work the hyd brakes do. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leg93 Posted May 2, 2007 Author Share Posted May 2, 2007 Alright, sounds good. Thanks! Any thoughts on parts quality? Obviously dealer parts are usually the highest quality, but are there any brands you have learned to stay away from? Any thoughts on this $53 Dorman Master cylinder? I don't know the engineering behind the master cylinder so I don't know how many things they could do wrong. You know, using stainless steel or copper instead of brass in plumbing is low quality, what is it with a master cylinder? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted May 2, 2007 Share Posted May 2, 2007 There is nothing to it or the slave cylinder. Its still a peice of cast metal with a steel piston and some rubber parts. Just goog;r whoever you buy from to make sure its OK. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leg93 Posted May 2, 2007 Author Share Posted May 2, 2007 Thanks! I went out and looked at it at lunch time to identify the slave cylinder and noticed some dirty fluid where the reservoir meets the master cylinder. I'm not sure if this dripped from my experiments last night or if there is a leak. It sounds like if it was a leak it could explain my symptoms. I'll let you all know how it goes. Thanks for all your help, Master Nipper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leg93 Posted May 3, 2007 Author Share Posted May 3, 2007 Follow up: I sucked out the old dirty fluid from the reservoir with a turkey baster, cleaned the sludge out of the reservoir, refilled with clean brake fluid and bled it out. That was some nasty dirty fluid in there! Filled the reservoir, pumped the clutch a few times and it's back to normal. I don't know if maybe my fluid was low enough to allow some air to be sucked in to the lines, or if they were clogged with contaminants, or what. It looked more full than it was because of the dirt clinging to the inside of the reservoir. I'll keep an eye on it and see what happens. I cleaned the fluid off the reservoir and nothing is pooling up between the reservoir and Master Cylinder anymore. I'll post back up if this didn't fix it. Thanks again for all your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2X2KOB Posted May 3, 2007 Share Posted May 3, 2007 Terminology note: A clutch is "engaged" when your foot is off of it, and the engine is connected to the transmission. It is "disengaged" when your foot is pressed down on it, and the engine is disconnected from the transmission. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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