been thinking about swapping a lower mileage motor into the touring wagon I just got. Well been thinking about a lot of things with that wagon. But mainly the motor.

 

It's got 230k+ miles on the rig. I know nothing about the motor and not that I don't think it could be a good motor I just happen to have one that has about a 100k less miles on it. And I know that one died because of a broken timing belt.

 

But I figure if I have everything out why not just reseal the motor. Head gaskets, rear seals and more.

 

After I did some searching I found this for a list of gaskets to use.

 

Head Gasket: Fel-Pro permatorque is what i think they are called.

Intake gasket: subaru

Head to block O-ring: subaru

oil pan: ?

exhaust: ?

Valve cover: ?

 

then I would do rear seals, maybe cam seals, timing belt and other little stuff that I run across.

 

Any one have other little things that I should do while it is out?

 

Other little gaskets that are a pain to get to when the motor is in the car?

 

Any input on my small little list that I have. Maybe some input about the ones with question marks.

oil pump replace or re seal would be the one big "other thing" to do for a comprehensive engine "tune-up" or semi rebuild. You sound like (heck, you all but said it outright) you want to do everything possible to give you another 100,000 miles or more of reliable service out of the motor going into the car. Check the hydraulic lifters while you are at it, and if necessary replace any that might not be holding pressure that well.

 

Outside of what you covered, most of the engine problems on these cars in a long term sense are minor FI or ignition system sensor or wiring errors; easy enough to diagnose or at least isolate. Otherwise you have a formula for getting most of the reliability and longevity possible out of a used longblock.

I think the head to block O-ring you're talking about is actually the cam-tower to head O-ring. about the size of a dime.

I think the head to block O-ring you're talking about is actually the cam-tower to head O-ring. about the size of a dime.

 

 

oh ok i have never done a head gasket on a ea82 so i just knew it was in the head area and was important.

oh ok i have never done a head gasket on a ea82 so i just knew it was in the head area and was important.

The came resides in a case that is sandwiched in between the essentially flat valve covers, and the cylinder head. The cylinder head has all the valvetrain in it, and also is where the hydraulic lifters stay. (BTW, careful that you do not drop the lifters when you pull the came case off.) The O-ring in question goes in between the cylinder head, and the cam case; once you get it apart you cannot miss it. However, UNTIL you get it apart; without having looked at a better diagram than I had access to, it IS easy to "miss" it. I hope my description helps.

the oil pan gasket is nice to do out of the car. it's a real PITA to do in the car. it looks easy, but is not, requires all sorts of engine lifting and blah blah blah to clear the sump and baffles in the oil pan. i'm not going to mislead you though, the oil pan gasket is annoying because the gasket sticks bad to the pan and it's hard to clean off. they are also prone to not sealing/seating very well when reinstalled. make sure the pan is in good shape and use a Subaru gasket, many even use RTV on the gasket as well.

 

yes - permatorque Fel pro head gsakets so you don't have to retorque them.

Subaru intake manifold gaskets

you'll need the cam carrier reinforced o-ring between the cam carrier and heads. thepartsbin.com is the only aftermarket source i know of, and of course Subaru the prices are about the same either way. youll need two.

Subaru exhaust manifold gaskets are much better too, but the aftermarkets, while scrawny looking don't typically leak either.

definitely replace the valve cover gaskets while the motor is out. they are cheap.

get the cam seal "kits" (as seen at thepartsbin.com), they have the cam seal and the oring behind the cam cap. replace both, not just the seal.

 

you'll want a new separator gasket as well, or at RTV on it. it's located between the engine and trans.

 

the rear main seal is debatable. if they show no signs of seapage or wetness i do not replace them. subaru's rarely leak from the rear main seal and i've seen a number of guys have issues with brand new ones leaking shortly after install....more encouragement for me just to leave them.

 

if it's an automatic i'd replace the torque converter seal and have a transission shaft "ring seal", as Subaru calls it, at least on hand if you need it as well. it's annoying to need one and not have it.

you'll want a new separator gasket as well, or at RTV on it. it's located between the engine and trans.

There is no seperator plate on SPFI blocks so unless you have an MPFI engine disregard that. I personally would replace the rear main but Gary is right they don't often leak.

 

if it's an automatic i'd replace the torque converter seal and have a transission shaft "ring seal", as Subaru calls it, at least on hand if you need it as well. it's annoying to need one and not have it.

 

If this car is automatic, it is surely a 3spd PT box. In that case there is no "ring seal"(the wierd split ring thing)like on the 4EAT. But there is a TC seal and it is easy to install. I would replace that.

If this car is automatic, it is surely a 3spd PT box.

is it only the turbo wagons that have the 4EAT?

is it only the turbo wagons that have the 4EAT?

 

Yeah only Turbo Wgn/sdn/coupes had the 4EAT. And that is only 87 and after. And of course XTs. All the SPFI GLs and Loyales use the PT 3AT