From below for me too.

Inserting the pin punch into a socket on an extension bar works both from above and from below. For example, on Imprezas with cruise control, and of course all turbo models, both sides would be easier to reach from the bottom. It helps to choose a socket that will hold the punch snugly. A 3/16" punch that most people end up with usually has a 5/16" hexagon. By the way, there's a proper tool they sell on eBay, a very long 6 mm punch. I'll get one some day.

One more question: how can I tell (either before the axle is removed, or after) whether it is OK to relube and reboot a front axle (inner boots have split, spinning the grease out) or must be replaced?

there's really no way to verify whether the joint will last or not. it might last the life of the vehicle, might start making noise in 1 month, 1 year, 5 years...no way to tell. most suggest replacing it once the boot has been broken. if it was just leaking at the bands, then maybe you can reason that nothing significant got inside the joint to damage it.

 

if it's not an original Subaru axle, that's another good reason to replace it. if it were my vehicle i'd replace the axle with an MWE axle. aftermarket axles for subaru's suck, except MWE.

I'd say if there's still a good amount of grease inside the joint housing -- the round metal part, not the boot -- then it can be safely re-packed.

This is a brief account I posted in a similar thread,

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=356687&postcount=10

These instructions can also be found in Haynes and elsewhere.

If you have any questions, please let me know.

I am confused. My driver's side cv inner boot is torn and have never done a boot or half-shaft change.

Is it really possible to remove the half-shaft from the transmission without separating the shaft from the wheel and replacing the cv boot without removing the half-shaft from the car?

I am confused. My driver's side cv inner boot is torn and have never done a boot or half-shaft change.

Is it really possible to remove the half-shaft from the transmission without separating the shaft from the wheel and replacing the cv boot without removing the half-shaft from the car?

Worked like a charm. Followed the description emailed to me from AVK to replace the inner boot without removing the axle entirely:

Punch out the pin. Unbolt sway bar link from control arm, and control arm from crossmember at the forward mount. Then there's enough play in the aftmount to swing the wheel out from the bottom and knuckle with halfshaft far enough for the joint housing to slide off the stub shaft. Pick out the large c-clip inside the "can" with a screwdiver or even your fingernail and then you really do need a c-clip remover to get the small c-clip off the shaft end and then the three balls are right there to clean, clean old grease out of the can add grease and reverse order to get her back together. When you put it back together, tighten the control arm and sway bar link bolts with wheels on the ground, or at least on ramps, otherwise the bushings will be twisted.

Other boots seemed fine so I decided to just do this one AND I had access to a lift. MWE, Subaru axle rebuilders with good prices and great help, suggested that inner torn boots were more forgiving than outer and worth a try and seconded AVK's approach.