Check Engine light came on a while back, blink code told me O2 sensor OR purge control valve. replaced O2 sensor and installed a 33 ohht went ohm 5 watt resister in place of, light went out. for short time. Now back on and blink code has me puzzled. It goes as shown

 

3 long 3 fast = 33

3 long 4 fast = 34

3 long 5 fast = 35 then it repeats this sequence over and over

 

WAZ UP?

HMMMMMMM NO RESPONCES?

Firstly, you need an O2 sensor. The 33 ohm resistor is a fix for the EGR and purge solenoids, not the O2 sensor. a generic bosch single wire o2 sensor is all that's needed and they are only $20.

 

What was the Original code? It could not be O2 OR Purge solenoid. It's one or the other.

 

So one by one

 

32=o2 sensor

33= speed sensor

34= EGR solenoid

35= Purge solenoid

 

Hook the o2 sensor back up, and then come back with the codes

might I suggest this link: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49918

 

Found this in the USRM - link at the upper right...

oRIGINAL CODE(S) were for O2 and purge control valve. see http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=61840&page=3

 

Could have it gone bad within 2-3 years, the O2 sensor? I will get another one if you think so. I did the resister trick on the purge control valve when it gave me a 35 code. Stopped the "check engine" light for a short while, maybe something else went bad.

Well, I misinterpreted you're fisrt post. I thought you had the resistor in place of the o2. If you're not getting an O2 code now I wouldn't replace it.

 

Have you tested the resistancve of hte resistors you used? maybe they blew? Anyhow code 33 is speed sensor.

 

I'd clear the codes(hook up both green and white connectors, start engine, run for 45 seconds at over 2000 rpm, till the CEL blinks. You might have to even drive it forward then back a moment. Shut off and disconnect both connectors)

 

Then see what you are still getting.

Just noticed the nitwit in me listed my Subaru as a 90. IT'S A 1992 LOYALE

 

DID 2k rpm thing and blinking did NOT stop. Same sequence

Turn the key on, and test for voltage at the connectors for each solenoid. For both, the Black w/White stripe wire should have 12v when the key is on. if there is no voltage there, test at the body side of the main engine harnes plug(large round connector behind the battery) Note that on the body side of the connector, the wire is Red w/Blue stripe.

 

Just a thought since 12v for both are on the same wire, it could be an issue with that wire.