gritle Posted January 5, 2008 Share Posted January 5, 2008 Hello UMSB. I've received good advice here in the past so I'm trying here first. I own a 98 Subaru legacy which is very soon becoming a huge money sucker. About a month ago I had the engine replaced due to a blown head gasket. The engine has roughly 81-82K miles on it. I drove it to and from work with no problems yesterday. This is about 25 miles round trip. I drove it around neighborhoods atopping it and starting it often as I ran errands. Now I go out this morning, turn the key and nothing. Simply nothing. There is a slight electric buzz and the stereo and lights work but not a spark and nothing close to even a crank or turn. I have absolutely no idea how this would happen. Sure it was kind of cold here last night but I have not had any problem starting this car in the past. I may try to jump it but I don't think that will do anything since there seems to be no firing. What do you all think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted January 5, 2008 Share Posted January 5, 2008 I think 1) Clean all battery cable connections 2) Have the alt output checked 3) Have the battery condition checked Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted January 5, 2008 Share Posted January 5, 2008 On the "jump" routine folow #1 above. Then A) Connect cables safely. Allow jumper to run at an elevated idle for a couple minutes C) prior to attempting to start. D) Remove cables safely follow #,2,3 in above post Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gritle Posted January 5, 2008 Author Share Posted January 5, 2008 Yeah I guess I may just need a jump after all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gritle Posted January 5, 2008 Author Share Posted January 5, 2008 how would I have the alt output checked and what should it be at? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted January 5, 2008 Share Posted January 5, 2008 Most name brand auto parts will do it for free e.g. Auto Zone, Advanced Auto you should call first to be sure. If you want a quick check get a multimeter and measure the battery voltage. With the lights and heater fan on, high idle (1500 RPM or so) you should see about 14 volts anything under 12 is trouble. Hope this helps. DO NOT disconnect the battery as a check. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gritle Posted January 5, 2008 Author Share Posted January 5, 2008 It is not turning over at all. Might it be the starter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted January 5, 2008 Share Posted January 5, 2008 I missed if this is an auto or manual? Try it in nuetral if it's an auto. It maybe starter solenoid contacts it may be ignition switch contacts in may be a nuetral start inhibitor switch Try the jump or another battery with cleaning the connections. Then tell us the results. No need throwing parts at it at this stage without further investigation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gritle Posted January 5, 2008 Author Share Posted January 5, 2008 I missed if this is an auto or manual?Try it in nuetral if it's an auto. It maybe starter solenoid contacts it may be ignition switch contacts in may be a nuetral start inhibitor switch Try the jump or another battery with cleaning the connections. Then tell us the results. No need throwing parts at it at this stage without further investigation. So i jumped with no problem. Drove about 8-10 blocks. Then I went to switch keys so I could leave it idle for a bit but I had no success. It is dead again. I think I can go get a battery and throw it in easily enough if I can get it started again. A battery is no big deal to put in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted January 5, 2008 Share Posted January 5, 2008 Do things like the headlights and radio and power windows all work when it won't start??? Do all the warning lights come on with the key to "run" before actaully turning it to start? Do they stay on when you turn it to "start"? Are you hearing a slight click, when you turn the key to "start"? If the answer to all is yes, (and you've done what skip said you may have a corroded or connection to the starter solenoid. to test, connect a 2 foot wire with a female spade onto the starter solenoid terminal. Turn the ignition to "run". With car in park or neutral. Now touch the wire to 12v + at the battery. If the car cranks and starts you're starter is good. Either you're connection or you're switch are bad. First check the spade connector for the solenoid in the harness. Clean it or even replace it(solder for sure), then possibly the connection of the ignition switch harness. You can buy a new ignition switch, a used switch, or.... a pushbutton or relay setup may be used to bypass or assist the original ignition switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gritle Posted January 6, 2008 Author Share Posted January 6, 2008 Where are these things located. I am planning on getting a new battery tomorrow. I really hope this is the only problem. I don't know a whole lot about where parts are in a car. Those things seem to work but Ihaven't tcleaned the connections yet. There has not been a click until the fifth or so attempt to start it. How much would it cost to have that sh*t done? Do things like the headlights and radio and power windows all work when it won't start??? Do all the warning lights come on with the key to "run" before actaully turning it to start? Do they stay on when you turn it to "start"? Are you hearing a slight click, when you turn the key to "start"? If the answer to all is yes, (and you've done what skip said you may have a corroded or connection to the starter solenoid. to test, connect a 2 foot wire with a female spade onto the starter solenoid terminal. Turn the ignition to "run". With car in park or neutral. Now touch the wire to 12v + at the battery. If the car cranks and starts you're starter is good. Either you're connection or you're switch are bad. First check the spade connector for the solenoid in the harness. Clean it or even replace it(solder for sure), then possibly the connection of the ignition switch harness. You can buy a new ignition switch, a used switch, or.... a pushbutton or relay setup may be used to bypass or assist the original ignition switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted January 6, 2008 Share Posted January 6, 2008 To find the starter,Look at the Battery, and follow the main Positve (+) battery cable back towards the center of the car. The end of the cable is bolted to the starter. ****That cable has power all the time, unfused, so don't touch it with any metal tools unless you unhook the Negative(-)cable form the battery first**** You may want to wiggle it to see if it's loose, and look for corrosion at that connection. Really though, it's just a way to help you find the starter. Now near that cable connection, is another wire attached to a small tab on the starter. That is the "start" signal wire to the solenoid. If you put 12v(jumper wire from battery) to the solenoid, it should activate the starter. Check that small connection for corrosion and see if it helps if you clean and crimp it. If that doesn't help, it's probably the ignition switch. You should get it replaced. or get someone handy with wiring to install a pushbutton. It shouldn't cost too much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msmithmmx Posted January 6, 2008 Share Posted January 6, 2008 You said you had the engine replaced; did they use your alternator for the swap? Or did they provide their own? Maybe they gave you a busted alternator. But it sounds like your battery is dead if your starter is able to work with a jump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.