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Ball Joint Replacement

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98 OBW 190K, I am replacing from driver side wheel bearing and figured I would do the ball joint while I am there. I am using a aftermarket ball joint and there is no grease in the rubber grommet. What grease shoud I use and how much?

To be honest, a dry place under the rubber boot is "normal".

 

Grease that you see on "old" ball joints that get normal lubrication (thru the zerk) is a result of the grease flowing out of the interface between the ball and the housing. It's just "excess".

 

IF you put on some lube, it will just displace the water that might get under the boot, because the REAL LUBE is in between the ball and the housing.

 

IF you want to put in some, use some wheel bearing grease since you will likely have it when you replace the bearings.

 

It really doesn't "do" anything, though except make a mess (when used on permanently sealed joints)

Be very careful when loosening the ball joint pinch bolt. It is not uncommon for those to snap off when working on an older soob esp one driven in this rust belt area. If it hasn't been removed before, the bolt will likely be pretty well siezed in there.

speaking of that porc. that happened to me when i was putting my clutch back in the first time i did it.....i accidently tightened the bolt to tight and snap.....i ended up just drilling out the old bolt and putting a longer pinch bolt in with a nut on the end...works just as good......

98 OBW 190K, I am replacing from driver side wheel bearing and figured I would do the ball joint while I am there. I am using a aftermarket ball joint and there is no grease in the rubber grommet. What grease shoud I use and how much?

 

Save the trouble and get an OEM one.

 

First, you shouldn't be able to see under the boot. Good ones(OEM) the boot will be clipped down and sealed.

 

And I assure you you will be hearing clicking and clacking from that balljoint within 10k miles. OEM balljoints are about $40. Double the cost of aftermarket, but it'll last 10x longer.

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