ok4450 posted a list of things he/she looks for when inspecting cars for dealers. Is there anything you would add to this list?

 

"I've done a lot of car inspections for dealers to aid in their decision as to whether to keep a car or run it off to the auction. It was a methodical process I was trained in and has worked very well. It goes like this.

1. Test drive car and pay special attention to the auto trans shifting or manual trans/clutch if equipped.

2. If ok, then a compression test and oil pressure test of the engine is done along with listening carefully for any abnormal noises.

3. If ok, then one puts the car on a rack where the underside can be inspected. The following areas are checked:

Any noticeable frame or body damage.

Brakes

Suspension components and tires

Exhaust

Check for any leaks of any sort; engine oil, trans fluid, coolant, etc.

Then all belts, hoses, etc. are inspected followed by operation of all lighting systems, horn, wipers, heater/A/C

operation, etc.

Body panel fit or any obvious body damage or damage to the strut towers, inspection of all glass/window operation, etc.

 

The process is a bit deeper than what I've listed but it's really not horribly time consuming. A couple of hours should get just about everything (and if everything is done it's really not that big a money maker for the mechanic).

Even with a thorough inspection there is no 100% guarantee that things won't go wrong. The basic building blocks are good but some of that little stuff could become a problem.

 

I performed an inspection for someone one time on an older model Ford T-Bird and this car was near immaculate. I could find no problems at all except a pair of half worn tires on the rear and even those were not too bad. The people purchased the car and about 6 months later went out one morning to start it, a gas line leaked,and the resulting fire burnt the car from the windshield forward.

The gas lines appeared fine during the inspection and it was never determined if the gas line split, blew off, or had been tampered with by Jr., who it appears had been given a little freedom to tinker under the hood.

 

Hope that helps."

....if the gas line split, blew off, or had been tampered with by Jr., who it appears had been given a little freedom to tinker under the hood.

 

i have a friend who comments everytime he sees a car fire on the side of the road, "i'll bet he just changed his fuel filter"!!!!

Anyone care to add to the list or know a thread covering this topic?

From a poster on Car Talk: "A good checklist. I have bought 8 used cars over the years, and always checked out the trunk as well. Water leaks can cause corrosion, and lifting up the trunk mat can reveal some real problems in the rust belt.

 

Also, any repainted areas are immediately suspect; accident or rust repairs."

Anyone care to add to the list or know a thread covering this topic?

 

Sharply bend hoses and belts to see if they are cracking. Check in hidden areas for water-staining, dried mud, weeds, mummified catfish or crawdads ... avoid Katrina Kars.

 

On Subarus check tire pressure for evenness. Do a torque-bind turn set, both forward and backwards in both directions on dry pavement.

 

Watch when you turn on the ignition and confirm that the check engine light comes on, then goes off. If no light, it may be disconnected to hide problems.

 

If you can't do a compression check hold a thin strip of newspaper so it hangs over the tailpipe, if it gets sucked in during idle - bad exhaust valve. Stick your finger in the coolant and see if it feels oily, sniff for compression gas smells.

Stick your finger in the coolant and see if it feels oily, sniff for compression gas smells.

 

 

... but keep in mind that coolant has a somewhat oily feel to it so, if you're going to do this, stick your finger in some good coolant so you have a comparison.

 

Also, I've been reading some of your posts and if there is a decent chance that you're going to be moving again soon and not keeping the car you might consider getting an older one that has been cared for instead of spending a bunch on an H6 with all the options that you may end up getting rid of.

 

I see from your posts that you're concerned with rust, but it appears from your posts that you are shopping for a car in California so I really wouldn't worry about rust as being an issue on any car built in the 90's.

 

Good Luck!

... but keep in mind that coolant has a somewhat oily feel to it so, if you're going to do this, stick your finger in some good coolant so you have a comparison.

 

Also, I've been reading some of your posts and if there is a decent chance that you're going to be moving again soon and not keeping the car you might consider getting an older one that has been cared for instead of spending a bunch on an H6 with all the options that you may end up getting rid of.

 

I see from your posts that you're concerned with rust, but it appears from your posts that you are shopping for a car in California so I really wouldn't worry about rust as being an issue on any car built in the 90's.

 

Good Luck!

 

Thanks for all the advice. LOL rust is not a big concern, but was only in mind because a friend in Carmel, California years ago complained of her car being eaten away by rust from the fog that rolls in every day at around 6PM and rolls out next day around 11AM.

 

Keeping it longer term is up in the air only because of an illness in the family where it might be better for us to be on the E Coast for a few months in the fall, long term we'd still be splitting time between W Coast and E Coast, so would likely be keeping the car.

 

Even if sold at some point in a few months, wouldn't buying a good older 01-03 H6 or H6 VDC be a smart move as the engines are better than the H4, the 6 cylinders seem to age better and hold their value longer, the 6 cylinder acceleration adds to safety and so does the VDC system?