Plugs and wires help

[tomson1355]

Is there a particular wire puller that anybody uses that makes it easy to pull the wires on these 2.5s? The one I have is angled and is useless. Also, what setup is recommended for getting the plugs out. I use a 3/8 drive plug socket with a 3" extension and it's a bear. Arthritis doesn't help, either. I'd be grateful for any tips or suggestions. I've got three of these cars and I'd like to make the job easier.

 

Sorry, no time to search. Maybe later.

[uniberp]

I have found these plugs are frighteningly stiff to remove. I did it with no trouble, but nightmare of stripped plug holes haunt me. I think I even cracked them loose, sprayed penetrant, then waited overnight, and they still felt like they needed 35 foot lbs to twist loose.

 

I guess that's the design, aluminum heads and all.

 

I know old BMW motorcycles have soft heads and frequently havenearly stripped plug holes because of casual mechanics.

 

 

 

 

Is there a particular wire puller that anybody uses that makes it easy to pull the wires on these 2.5s? The one I have is angled and is useless. Also, what setup is recommended for getting the plugs out. I use a 3/8 drive plug socket with a 3" extension and it's a bear. Arthritis doesn't help, either. I'd be grateful for any tips or suggestions. I've got three of these cars and I'd like to make the job easier.

 

Sorry, no time to search. Maybe later.

[Setright]

It can be easier to assemble the tools inside the plug tunnels.

 

If you want to ease access, you'll need loosen the engine mounts and lift the engine up with a jack from below. Gives about an inch before the exhaust won't allow more height. That inch can make a big difference!

 

Put a thin layer of ceramic grease on the plug threads, that'll keep them from sticking when time comes to pull them out again. I used to use copper grease, but when left for a long time (more than 1 year) it tends to dry out and the plugs need quite some effort to get out.

[tomson1355]

Thanks for the replies. I've been looking at various plug wire pullers and some double swivel plug sockets that look like they might help.

 

I've thought of jacking the engine for better access, but it always seemed like an extreme measure to change plugs and wires. I'll give it a try. You probably could drop the exhaust manifolds and get a couple more inches and make the job really easy.

 

Maybe other folks don't find it such a PITA as I do.

 

Thanks, Tom.

[frag]

And you might install longer lasting plugs, platinum or irridium.

[StructEngineer]

I just changed mine out on a 2.5. Plugs had 50,000 mi on them. Consider removing the air intake on the passenger side, and the battery/washer resevoir on the drivers. It really wasn't all that difficult to do, just time consuming. Once I had adequate clearance, I was able to get a better grip on the wires and with a twisting motion they came out fairly easily without the need of a wire puller. Just grasp the entire wire cap assembly, dont tug on just the wire itself.

 

From there just used a standard extension and plug socket to remove and install w/ torque wrench. Use anti seize. If you're not sure if your existing plugs have anti seize on them and they've been in there for a long time 60,000 mi+, I personally would just have a shop do it because I dont have much experience dealing with fouled threads.