StructEngineer

2010 X Forester with about 215,000 miles. My torque converter lock up clutch is disengaging and throwing a 0741 code only on long uphill grades on the interstate. AT fluid has regularly been changed with Subaru fluid, and I know its not overfilled. I did a drain/fill to inspect the fluid and it didn't look charred or anything. I changed the ATF oil pan about 40,000 mi ago due to excessive corrosion and I didn't note any wiring issues at that time. The fact that it's only failing on uphill grades suggests to me that either: 1. The duty B solenoid is getting weak and not supplying enough pressure to the lock up clutch. I see an aussie youtube video about this 2. Lock up clutch is bleeding off pressure somewherd. Is there anything else you think I can check for? I think i may try living with it for awhile, but want to prepare if this is gonna need a rebuild.

Right, but I was asking about the water pump. The service manual is showing that the rear cover and bracket need to come off, but I'm not really sure why and most writeups for older models dont show this.

1. 30 seconds? Dont I need a cam holder tool to remove the rear cover? 2. I think I'll do the turn of nut method instead of guessing at it..... if this bolt lets loose the crank is done for....

I have a few questions regarding an upcoming t-belt change on a 2010 forester (non turbo). 1. To replace the water pump, does the rear timing cover and the tensioner bracket have to be removed? Manual seems to indicate this but I'm seeing one or two threads skipping these items. Just asking because having to remove the cam sprocket requires an additional tool. 2. To torque the crank pulley, the manual indicates a turn of the nut method of approximately 60 degrees past 37 ft-lb. Do people actually do this? I guess I can go buy a torque angle gage, but itd be nice to just use the torque wrench I already have..... I'm seeing torque numbers being thrown out from 90 lb-ft to 135 lb-ft.

Usually when something is locked up with the brakes either the slide pin boots leaked and caused the pins to seize or the caliper piston seized in the bore. Both problems are entirely preventable if a few simple steps are taken when the pads are changed. Usually they'll just entirely replace the caliper and/or bracket and charge you an arm and a leg.....this is why they never do those simple steps.

PB blaster never worked for me on O2 sensors no matter how long I soaked them. Especially if you're removing one in the winter, heat is the only way that worked. I could pound on it for five minutes with the impact and it wouldn't come off until a little heat was applied. My Bosch sensor hasnt given me problems. A NTK sensor died within a year.

Tire Rack's written reviews give you some indication if you look at ones from people who have driven more than 5000 miles on the tires. Anyone writing a review with 500 miles on the tires you should just ignore. Tire Rack's (and any other websites) numerical rating system is completely misleading. How can anyone distinguish between a 6/10 and a 7/10 in any category? You cant. Tire Rack's track testing is even more misleading. It's marketing, nothing more. If you sit down and think about what tires they're testing against each other you see they're just pushing certain tires. For example, they'll test an allseason tire against a winter tire on an ice skating rink, but never on dry plowed pavement.....god forbid they show that an allseason does better than a snow tire. The best thing would be for USMB to integrate a review section into the tire/wheel forum.

Just a thought. Could you just buy a new hub, housing, and bearing online and assemble/press at your leisure? Then just bolt it on? Ebay the old housing if you want.

Actually tirerack does shave tires for this exact reason. I dont know the specs offhand, but it sounds like too big of a difference in circumference. This is the price you pay for AWD. Didn't the car dealer salesman tell you that when you bought it? haha

If your pins are starting to seize it probably means the boots are no longer sealing correctly because they're old (drying out) OR the last guy to grease them used a petroleum based grease instead of silicone (brake boots swell when petroleum grease is used, which ruins their seal, which then let moisture in and causes the pin to seize in the bore) Just get the subaru caliper seal kit online. Dont mess with anything else or aftermarket greases. It comes with new boots and the proper lube you know is compatible with the rubber. If you can still move the bottom pin a little bit, you have some time but it will probably be seized by spring. Once seized, then its a PITA to get them out. I would try to do it on a "warm" winter day if I were you instead of waiting. It will take 10 minutes max. To clean it you need to take out the pins. They're only held in by the boots which fit into a lip on the bore. Twist to break the boot free, then pull them out. Once you get the pins out, clean out the bore and pin thoroughly with brake cleaner. Install the boots on the pins, apply the correct grease on the pins and boot sealing surface and they should just pop back into the bores. Dont overgrease and dont trap air in the boot. For reference, my 2002 uses this kit http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partlistbymod.php?subcat=Brakes%2C+Front++Calip+Seal+kit+&model=Forester You can also buy the pins separately if you need to. As for your rusted lower bolt, this is normal.

Unfair? I would be pissed whether or not you (in your 90 nissan pickup or a new Lexus) hit me because you couldn't properly see out of your windshield.

I guarantee you the DOT's are not sophisticated enough to coordinate an economic stimulus plan.

I know, I would have thought the four years of head gasket horror would have turned more people away, but there's always a good supply of people who dont do research. I think the tribeca is one of the few models in decline. Maybe because it looks so odd.

I'm not sure that many are being turned away...yet. SIA Lafayette, IN continues to have month after month of record breaking production.

When I ran the envigors at the pressures on the door they made the noise but it was practically unnoticeable. My biggest issue at stock pressure was that they were squirmy. I couldn't stand driving them on the interstate because they needed constant correction. 1000 mi into my roadtrip I had to bump up the pressures. I feel like we have two threads going here, geesh.