If coolant has been sitting in the cylinders from the bad HG, the engine is no good.

 

quote is from the for sale section post here:

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=94591

How long does this take and how can you tell if the cylinder walls are no good (I assume thats what would go bad)? I just took the heads off my Rx, it had sat for about 3 mos with a LOT of water in #3 (hydrolocked till i took out the plug). Both the #3 and #1 had water in them and look like crap, with rusty junk on the cylinder walls that mostly wiped off but not totally. #2 and #4 walls looked great. The head gasket sure looked crappy like a piece of toilet paper near those cylinders, it has probably been leaking a while.

 

 

originally posted in the wrong section.

Its kind of a hard thing to diagnose since we don't quite know the severity of the rust in the cylinders. If its pitted bad, then yes, it'll get blow by and burn oil and be no good. Now if you can take a Scotch Brite pad and rub it so its not there or very very very close to not being there, then you should be fine.

I thought the engine were aluminum......cast iron liner? or are the older ones cast iron?

I thought the engine were aluminum......cast iron liner? or are the older ones cast iron?

 

The pistons ride in a steel sleeve which makes up the bore of the cylinder.

Well I am a little wary of using scotchbrite, I have heard it will damage bearings. In this case it's OK because it should not get into the oil?

 

I am looking for some advice, here is the story. In Sept. last year the head gasket went. The car sat until early Dec when I started the car and drove it into the garage (Mistake?). Then it sat from Dec until mid Jan when I pulled the head and saw the rust (pics here):

 

 

http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2012143010101042395UWzkye

http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2148649460101042395JreJlG

 

 

I have not tried to clean the cylinder walls because I fear making things worse. I think splitting the case is beyond my skill level. I am considering a JDM engine I can have delivered for $700. Any other options? I dont want to spend the time/money to put it back together just to have a smoking wreck.

 

Thx.

Edited January 19, 200917 yr by Major Lazy
pics not showing

So I took Caboobaroo's advice and scotchbrited the cylinder walls. I scrubbed it pretty good and there is still big time pitting. sigh live and learn. so I searched the forums and in another totally unrelated post Gloyale said basically at this point I would need to split the case to hone the cylinders, and if its that far may as well do the mains and at that point may as well call CCR and order a motor. While I would love to I just cant lay that kinda green down. So I have one more question: is splitting the case and honing the cylinders a home garage job or is there somewhere that would do this work?

 

 

look for LSD and silver enkies in the for sale section if not

Lazy, that looks pretty bad. Maybe find a shortblock from someone off the board? What about carfreak's EA82T he has for sale?

 

I'm always weary about getting a used engine unless its a JDM one. I've had issues running used engines in the past and well, I don't think I'd really go that route myself. I've seen the JDM engines got for way cheaper on ebay so maybe look there? Only way I'd buy a used engine is if it was in a car running or I knew it was runnin just prior to be buying it.

 

There is this guy on CL right now for $500

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/995836759.html

Just a thought.... I'd get that and reseal it and throw it in there with your heads and intake:)

Thanks for the input, I am leaning towards getting a JDM (800 delivered) because it should be much fewer miles and I already have the seals and t-belts. The wagon looks like a great option too, and studs as a bonus! Would you replace the HG on a JDM or just seal it and go?

 

Thx again.

I'm thinking that looks mostly like surface rust.

 

It's obviously not ideal, but I would wager it would be fine. I've seen newly machined blocks, that didn't get oiled well enough, end up nearly the same. A light wipedown and they were fine.

 

I'd soakit with WD-40, then wipe clean with a shop towel or soft cloth.

 

If there are still areas with rust after that, then a very light scrubing with the back side of a dish sponge should do the trick.

 

Once you've got it mostly clean, rotate the crank and drop each piston down as far as it will go and wipe it all out again. Repeat for other cylinder.

I'm thinking that looks mostly like surface rust.

 

It's obviously not ideal, but I would wager it would be fine. I've seen newly machined blocks, that didn't get oiled well enough, end up nearly the same. A light wipedown and they were fine.

 

I'd soakit with WD-40, then wipe clean with a shop towel or soft cloth.

 

If there are still areas with rust after that, then a very light scrubing with the back side of a dish sponge should do the trick.

 

Once you've got it mostly clean, rotate the crank and drop each piston down as far as it will go and wipe it all out again. Repeat for other cylinder.

 

The only prob with that Gloyale is that he stated that the cylinder is pitted, it would need to be honed.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1987-SUBARU-XT-TURBO-ENGINE-USED-1-8L-P170J_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33615QQihZ010QQitemZ200301234565QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW