Major Lazy

http://foreignengines.com/ You can buy one here. I did and all you need to do is swap the intake because the harness comes off the passengers side not the drivers side.

not sure if its just me but that link wont work.

if Daewoo and subaru got married and had a child they sent to ivy league college.

I replaced the used MAF with another used one from the same place. one day so far no probs. If you dont see any more posts here then I had the rare experience of having the MAF go bad then buying a bad used one. Just want everyone to know that just cuz its rare doesn't mean you should not consider it!

Holy cow So with no fsm I threw my hands up and took it to the shop. They tested the MAF output and said it was intermittently bad. As far as I am concerned that was $100 well spent if its true. Tomorrow I will take back the used MAF, install the replacement and post the results if for no other reason than that there is a chance that some poor guy 3 years from now has the same problem and realize that yes indeed the MAF can go bad...and the one you get to replace it can be bad also, but not show itself to be bad until 3 days of happy driving have passed.

looked but could not find that ref. Anyone have a no cost 97 fsm? Actually I could go to the library huh. Oh and i threw out the old maf, after replacing it I was so sure it was fixed and the old was bad.

I know this is an old post and I am sorry if this is not kosher but... I am having EXACTLY this problem and would pay a crisp clean $20 bill to hear what the solution was.... and obw99's mailbox is full.

My 97 does fantastic in the snow but it can still kick the rear around if i gun it just right (or wrong) Did you drive this car last year in the snow? I only had 2 probs in snow: 1 dragging the bottom pan it will only go a few inches then it needs chains 2 snow packs up under the rear wheel well and causes some pretty serious handling problems because there is about 1" of travel.

I use cheapo fram filters, this one is pretty dang good. I always have issues putting the filter on though because the rubber has to be pushed in good before putting the lid on. yea, I have checked the filter box and it is as good as it ever was. Also I do not suspect that because i changed the filter about 10k ago and this is the first hint of a problem since then. I have done that several times. The first time right after the problem manifested itself and since then I have cleaned them again with a little piece of emery cloth then cleaned them with carb cleaner and blew them out with some air. They look uniform and clean. I have done that but its tough to hear any difference when I am wiggling because the car either runs great or won't run at all for long. Do you think it would short out INSIDE the connector? behind the connector the wires are visible and well insulated. Thx for the help. as an aside, I keep wondering how the airbox improperly sealed could cause a MAF error. The entire volume of intake air is still flowing past the sensor, it seems there would be no difference to the sensor what was in front of the intake duct. But thats just me thinkin'. Perhaps the MAF is tuned to exactly the flow patterns with the box installed so that with a leaking or mis aligned air box it cannot read correctly?

Help! I'm stumped and my wife wants to buy a new car and I do not need a payment! So, the car ran just fine for 3 days on the used MAF with no problems at all. THEN CEL lit and ran rough for a few secs then cleared up & ran fine, with the CEL still lit. Code read: P0102 Mass air flow sensor circuit low input Car ran fine at this point so i cleared the code and after a day of driving CEL lit again and would not idle at all. Code read: P0103 Mass air flow sensor circuit high input Now it (usually) starts fine and runs for a few secs then dies. If i let is sit a while sometimes it will start and run fine but i do not want to drive it anywhere to see for how long. Grossgary, I did not read the trans code (not sure yet how), it went away with the problem and now it has reappeared. Does anyone have any idea what else might be causing this? Thanks in advance

Woot! Used MAF at Campbell Nelson in Arlington for $60 (yea its more than 25 but I have it NOW) solved the problem, no light and runs like it ever did. Thanks for the help.

Grossary, The CEL came on with no warning, one minute no CEL, then CEL came on at hwy speed, but the car ran fine (I thought it was a loose gas cap which is the only other time the CEL has come on in this car). Then when I stopped the car it idled badly. Then it stopped running. I think ill try to get a MAF, if I can find one for $25 ill be happy, Autozone quoted me $275. Shoot I already spent $7 on cleaner. The car runs just fine, makes no odd noises but dies after a few secs. Is there any chance of some other issue causing this code? I'll work on a new MAF and let you know if it fixes it.

After the car was towed. I sprayed the sensor with the little straw on per the directions on the can (CRC cleaner) which says to spray it 10-15 times w/ the straw on. I sprayed right onto the little wafer thing pretty good but was at least 6" from it. I never came close to touching the sensor, i never actually took it out from the 2 connector ducts so there would be less chance of damaging it. I also took the connector off (after disconnecting the battery) and cleaned it with the same cleaner. Also the AT oil temp light is flashing which is obviously trying to tell me something.

97 imp 2.2 auto 170k with about 10k on new plugs, wires and fuel filter. With no warning the CEL came on and she was idling rough. We stopped because we were at Chuck E. Cheese, our destination (not as bad as it sounds) and so i just shut it down for a couple of hours. I came out and started it and it started and ran fine with CEL on so I drove it home (except it did die at idle 2 times at lights). While moving it ran just fine except that little light was still on. So I stopped at Autozone to get the code read: P0103 1-Large vacuum leak 2-Air duct hose damaged 3-engine mechanical condition 4-Faulty MAF/VAF sensor After the code was done being read I talked to the guy for a while, and when I went to leave the car would not start. So I had it towed home (yay AAA) and here I just cleaned the MAF and looked for vacuum leaks and broken intake stuff but it has the same condition. It starts and runs fine for about 3 sec then idles down and dies. Can I safely say it is time to buy a MAF?

I am getting 24 and happy because its a new jdm and before the swap i got 21. OH yea its an 87 RX

Car? No probs the Rx went down I-5 in a hurry from upper 90s in mt vernon to over 100 in everett and idled through traffic there no prob. The driver: probs. No AC in heat/traffic/pavement. OMFG that was hot but at least the AC was not pushing the engine even more.

Well, I cannot help myself...How did it run before you pulled the engine?

I am pretty sure the covers will need to come off to get to that one bolt. This is why some people leave the covers off, there is a big long thread about that very issue active now

sure its one time use (although I bet you could get someone to refill it), and it blows Co2 which smothers fire, no chemicals

not sure if this is what you mean but it worked for me in both an ea81 and ea82 just fine http://www.installer.com/item/display_item.php?it=99-8900 EA82 and 81 had 2 post, this allows a single din install i think you could cut for 1.5 din. I have pics of the adapter if you want.

lol why do you sound surprised? This is a guy who has bedliner on the roof! I am jealous

I just keep pumping them up :cool: No i really do not look cool because i don't have a compressor so I use my bicycle pump. And yes they are silver like the gold ones in your avatar. However I do not want to sell them unless you want to take the RX too.

Here is the kit I have used for both a EA81 and an eA 82, you just have to run new wires, this will help you fit the radio in the dash. http://www.installer.com/item/display_item.php?it=99-8900 If you can find the slanted console, it it much better but they are hard to find. just fit some small round speakers in the door.

You are in for a treat. I am not sure about the XT but on my RX the passenger head was kind of a pain. see this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=93453&highlight=turbo+head+gasket Other than the turbo side getting them off was fairly straight forward, but then again I never got mine back together because the cylinder walls had rusted pretty badly so I spent $750 on a JDM engine. If I was doing them again I would take the engine out and spend some scratch on a used hoist and stand. Others will disagree but I have little experience and no power tools.

They did use the goop, they said they put bead sealant on them but it was still borderline. For now i guess ill just check them more often and get a second opinion. I usually have very good info from Les Schwab, I don't think they were trying to sell me rims. I highly doubt they could even get 4x140 rims.