1989.5 Subaru RX Coupe

JDM EA82T with AC

4EAT FT 4WD

 

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Hello USMB,

 

Well after process of elimination, I (with the previous help of Turbone) have deduced that I have a cam seal leak on my drivers side.

 

This is another one of those things I have never done on an engine before, and I was wondering how difficult it was, and the steps I need to take to replace it?

 

I'm guessing I need to remove my timing belt, pulley and plastic cover... but what comes next?

 

My Haynes manual offers no help, and I can't find a Chiltons around here. So I turn to you bunch for help!

 

I greatly appreciate it since I absolutely hate having to go buy four quarts every other week.

 

Edit: The leak is coming from the front of the engine by where the Valve Cover is and not the back.

Edited March 25, 200917 yr by Keiji22

the valve cover and grommets are prone to leak and easy to replace. have you checked to make sure that's not what is easy. should be able to tell - valve covers on the side, cam seal is up front, but they're both by that front corner and oil tends to blow back the same way so it can be a little confusing.

 

the cam seals arent' that hard once the timing belt is off. remove the 3 10mm bolts holding the cam sprocket on. then remove the rear timing cover behind that (3 more 10mm bolts), then remove the cam cap - which is 2 or 3 bolts. so you're talking 8 or 9 bolts and 10-15 minutes more than a timing belt job.

 

make sure you replace the ORING as well as the seal. the cam cap has an oring behind it and they are in horrible shape by now.

 

best bet, and what most of us here do, is to reseal the front of the engine as much as possible and be done with it for a long time. any seal that is wet or leaking should be replaced. both cam seals (and their respective orings), oil pump, and crank seal should be inspected.

 

after that, the timing belt pulleys (ebay kits are only $70), oil pump reseal, and water pump are a good idea. very few timing pulleys are in good shape by now, they usually spin to freely and are noisy.

+1 on grossgary's advice. it only takes a few more minutes with the covers apart,there are lots of threads on this subject. i would do the idler bearings and belts too. they have to come off any way, ive done it the wrong way and was back in there 10 thousand miles later..

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/85-94-SUBARU-LOYALE-1800-GL-RX-XT-TIMING-BELT-KIT-EA82_W0QQitemZ400025164089QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item400025164089&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A1205%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/85-94-SUBARU-LOYALE-XT-RX-GL-1-8L-FULL-GASKET-SET-EA82_W0QQitemZ350180098286QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item350180098286&_trksid=p3911.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1171%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

Edited March 25, 200917 yr by ivantruckman

Yes. I am 100% positive that the grommets and vcg are not leaking. It is leaking from in between the plastic cover and the rocker arm housing, dripping down the valve cover and onto the ground.

 

It is definately the cam seal.

 

Anyways; both belts were replaced less than 5k miles ago due to a mishap with an oil change that caused the belts to fray. (Long story, I do my own oil changes now.) So I see no need to replace them as of yet.

 

So, I need to buy the cam seal and O-ring? They also make this special sleeve or something that would make the job easier?

 

I really appreciate this. So again, thanks.

Thanks for this thread. I just finished rebuilding both heads on my EA82 and guess what was the only seals I didn't replace? The Cam seal and o-ring on both sides. Guess where oil is leaking from now? You guessed it. Now I get to pull the timing belts off and replace the cam seals. I plan to do the oil pump o-rings too while I already have timing belts off.