Keiji22

Good thing they make postal versions in LHD.

How about red with black outline? Reason being, it will make it look cleaner and flush on the gunmetal.

The Holden Commodore comes in various trim levels and platforms. The only ones I'm interested in are the Ute, SS, SSV, and SV6. The Ute is the truck platform, the SS/SSV model is just the performance edition with a choice of transmissions. While the SV6 is the sport 6-cyl version. (The SV6 is a more realistic goal for me.)

http://www.holden.com.au/www-holden/action/modeloverview?modelid=4006 Sexy. Better looking than the American Pontiac G8, and with more power to boot. I'm seriously considering buying a used one and having it shipped Stateside. Lots of options and accessories that come from the factory. I can get a damned decent used one for about $19,000US and have it shipped here for about $2,000US. (Even getting it through customs won't be too hard.) Anyone ever done any research on this car or the company? (They're owned by GM) What does USMB think?

Yes. I am 100% positive that the grommets and vcg are not leaking. It is leaking from in between the plastic cover and the rocker arm housing, dripping down the valve cover and onto the ground. It is definately the cam seal. Anyways; both belts were replaced less than 5k miles ago due to a mishap with an oil change that caused the belts to fray. (Long story, I do my own oil changes now.) So I see no need to replace them as of yet. So, I need to buy the cam seal and O-ring? They also make this special sleeve or something that would make the job easier? I really appreciate this. So again, thanks.

1989.5 Subaru RX Coupe JDM EA82T with AC 4EAT FT 4WD ------------- Hello USMB, Well after process of elimination, I (with the previous help of Turbone) have deduced that I have a cam seal leak on my drivers side. This is another one of those things I have never done on an engine before, and I was wondering how difficult it was, and the steps I need to take to replace it? I'm guessing I need to remove my timing belt, pulley and plastic cover... but what comes next? My Haynes manual offers no help, and I can't find a Chiltons around here. So I turn to you bunch for help! I greatly appreciate it since I absolutely hate having to go buy four quarts every other week. Edit: The leak is coming from the front of the engine by where the Valve Cover is and not the back.

I have a 4EAT FT 4WD and from what I understand, it's better than the 3EAT (Atleast, faster, more reliable, etc...) But the way to go would be the dual range 5-speed Manual Full Time 4WD. Much quicker than either of the automatics.

Alrighty! I did find that the PCV valve was bad. I replaced it with a new one. The oil pressure is fine now, but the driver side crank case cover is still leaking, which I will replace. Anyone know the exact torque specs for the cover bolts so I can avoid over-tightening?

1989.5 RX JDM EA82T 4EAT FT4WD ---------------- Hey everyone. I'm having all sorts of oil problems. First off... leaks. I JUST replaced the valve cover gaskets not but a few months ago. Now my valve covers gaskets are leaking, and bad. Also, my oil pressure is REALLY high. I'm running something like 60-80psi almost consistently, which pushes oil out of almost every orifice it seems like. I do have a slightly dented oil pan, but it's been like that since I got the car. Other than that... what in gods name is causing my oil pressure to be that high and how in the world to my gaskets wear down after only a couple thousand miles? Help?

Alright! Now I have 2 BRAND NEW (Refurbished) Axles, 8 brand new brake pads all around, new transmission fluid and topped all the other fluids off. Now if I could only get my rear window sprayer to unplug. Car drives great and it doesn't feel like it needs another alignment. I did have to fix the idle speed... I checked the spec's and it was only supposed to be idling at around 800rpm in Park. It was warm and idling at 2100rpm. So I adjusted the throttle and now it's idling back at 1400rpm, a little better I guess.

Just took out the old axle on the passengers side. It was worse than the driver side axle. It was limper than a flacid 90 year old man with 100/50 blood pressure who hadn't renewed his Viagra Rx (Lol, RX=Prescription, just caught that) in two decades. Also, I now am having fun with replacing these now that I know what I'm doing. Screw the "special tool" press. Block of wood+hammer+following directions makes things much easier. Replaced the brakes as well. Next up; 4 wheel alignment, TMIC install and hood scoop.

That's horse crap. But now, the driver will have to live with the thought that he killed an innocent person. I'd never let him live it down either. I'd send an anonymous letter to his house every month explaining your grief and loss. Also send a picture of your friend to him as well. It's not harassment, so it's perfectly legal.

It's almost always the unsuspecting victim of a drunk driving accident that dies... never the driver. Vehicular Homicide is plainly murder. I hope the drunk driver rots in hell.

That axle was the original axle that came on the car. I wouldn't be surprised if some discoloration has occurred after 20 years. Also, the axle REALLY was broken. I'm not kidding on this one. As soon as I took it out of the transmission, two ball bearings fell outta the boot.

But I'm actually looking forward to an E/T swap into my car. I intend on keeping it since it is a rare model. And that way, I'll have access to the more reliable EJ series engine and transmissions. ----------- @M45, If you have removed your spare tire and the mounting bracket+heat shield for your turbo, assuming you have the Turbo EA82; There should be a plastic label on the top of your transmission right behind your intake pipe. It has a barcode on it. ---------- Now for the update; I bought a new axle, the correct one and replaced it. I was right about the part number. Shucks, Autozone and the likes have wrong information from their manufacturers and will ALWAYS give you the backwards part, since they cannot correct the error. But tonight; I was going over a VERY mild speedbump and... my passenger side CV joint starts clicking. Lol. I just picked up another axle. So now I'll have two good, new axles with 1 year warranties. I also got new brake pads because I discovered that my rear pads were about 10% and the front pads were about 30% during the procedure.

The part number they're recommending is ??7008. I'm thinking the one for the auto transmission is ??7009.

Anyone here have a 4 Speed Auto with a Turbo and have had to replace their Axles? I'd looove to know where you got your axle.

Yeah. This really blows. All of their computers are wrong. Also, if anyone knows anyone... my transmission's code is EA82T-AZ4AG

Here's the length comparison. I took it back to Shucks since it was completely the wrong axle. Napa doesn't have one. Autozone doesn't have one. Here's a picture of their length comparison, they're exactly the same length:

Alright, this is screwed up... The part where the Axle goes into the transmission is 1 1/4 inch. The axle that shucks swears by for the Auto Tranny, is less than 1 inch. The new axle is the right length and spline count at 24, it just won't fit in the transmission as it isn't the right diameter. Pics to follow......... As you can see, this is totally wrong. I'm going to Autozone right now.

OH! Now the ********************* shows up as soon as I start jacking the car up. Wtf...

Thanks. Anyone know the best way to remove the axle from the spindle? How about removing the Pinch-pin in the DOJ? Anyone know if I could use a makeshift tool to do that? Again, this is the 4-speed Auto FT4WD.

I finally have time today to replace my Axle. My dads neighbor was going to help me out and let me use his Garage and tools... But he flaked out on me and left this morning when we were supposed to do it. Anyways, I'm gonna go mess with it now.

OP is extremely hard to read. I'll probably clean it up later because I'm going to be replacing my axle today and will finally know how to do this.

Bitter Cold has caused a Hit and Run, and a broken CV Joint on my Subaru. Also broke my brothers P71 Crown Vic's oil pump, causing it to seize up. Also!!!! My moms Ford Ranger's transfer case and front hubs don't work now, due to her getting stuck in the snow. Crapload of car issues the past week.