Okay, i need to know if i'm doing this right.

 

On the camshaft support, there is castle like thing and then flanges where it bolts up to the head.

 

The o-ring goes on and around this, correct? As in it's meant to be installed onto the support and it sits up against the flanges that are supposed to sit flush to the head?

 

I can see there's a chamfer on the head side, where it looks like the o-ring is suposed to compress into. The old o-rings were stuck in that chamfer and had formed into a triangular.

 

The problem i have is that once i put the new o-rings on, the thing wont sit flush anymore. And as a matter of fact on the LH side it looks like the o-ring actually got squished out so instead of compressing into the little gap for the chamfer, it's compressing between the head and flanges.

 

Am i doing something wrong?

Don't know if you're doing anything wrong - but I'm not understanding you.

 

First off - Suby Orings? They are very thin as opposed to the Orings out of an assortment box.

 

The old hard ones are always triangular any typically break when trying to remove them.

 

Personally I refer to drivers and passengers side when discussing cams and Orings. I've heard all kinds of things (almost like stage left instread of Right, etc.) when folks are discussing these things.

 

On the LF (drivers) side the Oring is on the front(right by the cam sensor).

 

On the Right (passenger) side at the rear of the head is the other Oring that has a simple plate with 2 bolts that holds it in there. Very tight fit - I always use assembly lube and a rubber mallett.

Yes, they are OEM o-rings. I can take a photo when i get back home later, but basically the support piece wont sit flush anymore with the head

 

the o-ring is suppose to compress into the chamfer if i'm not mistaken, but it's not, it's just compressing between the head and the support, not allowing the two metal surfaces to sit flush.

 

I'm aware of where both of them are sounds like i just need to press it in harder?

 

on the drivers side, i can actually see the o-ring squished out almost looks like a silicon sealant squishing out. These didn't seem that thin though..

Perhaps someone else can chime in. I've never run into this. The one at the rear of the head on the passenger side is a bugger - very tight fit.

 

The drivers side front has more stuff going on but usually is actually easier to seat.

which part is a tight fit? the support going into the bore? or do you mean with the o-ring?

There's a very precise clearance against the camshaft, and also a tight fit into the bore. It helps to turn the support as you move it along the shaft.

yeah i guess its just an issue of getting that o-ring to compress into the chamfer on the head side.. it just kind of squishes inbetween the flat sections on the flange/head

Well, i'm doing it right..

 

 

if that's a picture of the new o-ring installed, my o-ring looks fatter than that when installed on the support for some reason.

well I gave my o-rings acai berry for a couple weeks before installing them. just kidding. I can't remember if that is the old o-ring or the new o-ring on there. Does your o-ring size match up?

the o-ring seems to be the correct size, other than the thickness of it.

 

on the drivers side i can literally see the o-ring squish out between the two surfaces. I removed it yesterday and it was all chewed up.

 

That's probably the 7th time i've taken the timing belt off to try to do this...

i went to a different dealer, ordered the same part, instantly i could tell the o-ring was different..

 

no issues with the new oring.

 

voila.

Excellent.

 

They are very skinny.

 

They are the only Orings that I know of that come 2 to a pack and near that size for a Suby. WOnder what you got the first time?

WOnder what you got the first time?

Yes that is a good question.......I wouldn't put it past some dealers out there to just sell the closest size o-ring from a harbor freight bulk pack.

Item #4 is what i got.. part numbers are not even the same...

 

 

Also, while i was at the dealership i picked up another oil pump o-ring because the one in your photo didn't look like the one i had... and indeed, the one this dealership gave me isn't even the same.

 

I'm gonna have to redo the oil pump again, damn it.

This will be the 8th time i've taken off the timing belt since Friday.

What year and model soob do you have? That pic is for the dohc.

I'm guessing that's why he got the wrong part. I've never needed to replace those Orings shown on that DOHC.

 

But sure have done plenty on the 2.2 as the OP was trying to do.

 

Wonder what he got for the oil pump Oring - they all seem to be the same?

 

I do have issues from time to time with my local dealer's parts counter. But nothing like this.

There are two part numbers for the oil pump O-ring, changing in 1998 if memory serves.

I assumed they changed the diameter of the bore it sits in, because what else can be different.

Edited May 20, 200916 yr by avk

My car is an SOHC, i know that o-ring doesnt even belong on my engine at all...

 

For the oil pump o-ring, the one i was given was just a regular o-ring. It appeared to be a little small for the recess but i figured it would expand when compressed so i used it anyway. It was really loose and barely balanced within the recess, i even had to use lots of grease to get it to stick in there. Strangely it looked a lot like the one i removed from the pump, it even had a bit of blue hue to it just like the new one i got. it was definately suspect at the time, but i put the oil pump back on anyway.... thank god i saw the photo that porcupine posted that made me ask for the oil pump o-ring while i was at the dealer just incase...

 

The correct o-ring that i just got looks like the one in porcupines other post where he showed that oil pump in a photo, it's an o-ring with a small ridge on it. I re-did the oil pump last night, the new o-ring is a really snug and perfect fit inside the recess on the block.

 

phew...