shortskoolbus Posted May 22, 2009 Share Posted May 22, 2009 just finished putting my 4EAT back in... for the second time.. changed the rear main (again) and resealed the oil separator plate since i can't say for sure what was leaking from the first time i did it.. put a thin coat of sealant around the outside of the rear main which will hopefully prevent any leaks in the event that i stupidly installed it wrong again... if that thing is still leaking, i'm letting the mechanic do it. pulling the transmission twice is more than i would like already... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted May 22, 2009 Share Posted May 22, 2009 Pulling the AT trans SUCKS! I definitely did not enjoy that job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted May 23, 2009 Share Posted May 23, 2009 I too have done it a few times, but I did it on a lift, it was much easier but that thing is still VERY heavy!! Good luck, hopefully you got it!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted May 23, 2009 Share Posted May 23, 2009 yeah i've done that job before as well with no help from equipment = rough. rear seals plain suck, there's a number of folks that have had problems getting them to reseal properly. was it leaking to begin with or why did you replace it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted May 23, 2009 Share Posted May 23, 2009 For the future, it would be easier to unbolt the engine mount, torque converter, and exhaust bolts. Remove the radiator. Then using a jack under the engine just lift and roll it forward in the engine bay. I would never choose to pull a 4EAT out the bottom unless it HAD to come out. 5speeds are easy, but 4EATs are too heavy for all that jazz. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortskoolbus Posted May 24, 2009 Author Share Posted May 24, 2009 For the future, it would be easier to unbolt the engine mount, torque converter, and exhaust bolts. Remove the radiator. Then using a jack under the engine just lift and roll it forward in the engine bay. I would never choose to pull a 4EAT out the bottom unless it HAD to come out. 5speeds are easy, but 4EATs are too heavy for all that jazz. everyone says its easier to pull the motor.. but there are so many more steps/connections! and what about the AC? You have to recharge it again after that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortskoolbus Posted May 24, 2009 Author Share Posted May 24, 2009 yeah i've done that job before as well with no help from equipment = rough. rear seals plain suck, there's a number of folks that have had problems getting them to reseal properly. was it leaking to begin with or why did you replace it? I replaced it because i was back there for the oil separator... lesson learned, never touch that rear main seal unless it is leaking. If that thing is still leaking this time, i'm not doing it again.. it's going into the mechanic. I did make one mistake though which i hope doesn't come back to haunt me... i only torqued the drive plate bolts down to 40 ft-lb instead of 52 ft-lb.. for some reason i remembered them as 40. I did use loctite though, so i figure it should be okay... or i hope i should say.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted May 25, 2009 Share Posted May 25, 2009 everyone says its easier to pull the motor.. but there are so many more steps/connections! and what about the AC? You have to recharge it again after that? All you do with the A/C is unbolt the pump and move the whole assembly to the side. No need to disconnect any of the fittings etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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