I'd order a haynes manual, but the 3 auto stores I checked didn't have them for our model and to have it ordered would take longer than the time I have off to get this project done. But it is on order, because it's always good to have. I just won't count on having it during this project.

 

I've been searching for a transmission removal thread (always quicker/easier to find a thread already started than start my own and wait for answers). But my searches have yielded no good results. Does anyone have a direct link to the write ups?

got the CV separated from the transmission.

 

I know there was mentioning of the top strut bolt affecting the alignment, but If i don't remove the entire wheel and CV joint, do I have to worry about that?

Did you remove the top strut mount bolt without removing the wheel?

 

Anyway - yes the top bolt is a cambered bolt - did you look at it? It's OVAL, it doesn't matter what you do with the hub, wheels, CV, axle.....if that bolt comes out then your alignment is off.

 

I mentioned earlier to mark the head of the bolt so you can reinstall it like it was, did you not do that? You keep asking for a "write-up", a more important tool is to follow the directions given. The best directions in the world don't help if they aren't followed.

 

There's a way to reset it yourself, you'll have to search for that thread on how to do that.

Did you remove the top strut mount bolt without removing the wheel?

 

Anyway - yes the top bolt is a cambered bolt - did you look at it? It's OVAL, it doesn't matter what you do with the hub, wheels, CV, axle.....if that bolt comes out then your alignment is off.

 

I mentioned earlier to mark the head of the bolt so you can reinstall it like it was, did you not do that? You keep asking for a "write-up", a more important tool is to follow the directions given. The best directions in the world don't help if they aren't followed.

 

There's a way to reset it yourself, you'll have to search for that thread on how to do that.

 

I marked it. Definitely did that. So I should be fine, I'm just a bit paranoid that I didnt mark it well enough or the mark will wear away..

Okay, gotcha. Yeah I'm always worried about that too. I usually hit them with a chisel/hammer right quick where they meet the strut mount so it marks both at the same time because of that issue too. Particularly considering most I work on are dirty.

 

From some of the more knowledgeable folks on here, that's a very forgiving "setting" anyway, so don't get a headache trying to tell if it's a degree off or not, it won't matter.

Okay, gotcha. Yeah I'm always worried about that too. I usually hit them with a chisel/hammer right quick where they meet the strut mount so it marks both at the same time because of that issue too. Particularly considering most I work on are dirty.

 

From some of the more knowledgeable folks on here, that's a very forgiving "setting" anyway, so don't get a headache trying to tell if it's a degree off or not, it won't matter.

 

That's exactly what I did. I used a screwdriver, though. Just made a mark in place.

 

I'm working on the driver side CV. These bolts are hard to get off. The passenger side was bad, but this is worse. Been working on just the driver's side for 2 hours. On and off I've been hitting it with a propane torch and PB blaster and liquid wrench. Trying a combo of the 3 to get them loose.

 

I'm gonna have to go to the zoo in a bit to pick up a gorilla. Maybe he can get it off. Any tips for getting them off? We have an air compressor and a chisel for it. Will that work for wedging my way under the bolts?

Nah, can't wedge under the bolts.

 

Are you talking about the strut mount bolts? Those usually aren't that bad, i removed 4 today in about 5 minutes on an old rusty parts car that's been sitting about 2 or 3 years even.

 

You just need length to break it free - use the wrench on a wrench trick, i have no idea how to explaiin that in words, but that's what i did today - two wrenches "interlocked" to double the length.

 

or use a pipe over your socket handle. that's one of the greatest tools i have is my 3 foot pipe to put over my socket handle. you would have each bolt loose in 8 seconds each with one of those.

 

or use good air tools. let it hammer them for a minute or two.

 

if you're having this much trouble with those bolts you should forget you even have axle nuts unless you get better tools - it is 10 times harder (maybe more) than the strut mount bolts. i had a 3 foot pipe over a socket and was JUMPING up and down on the end of it the other day and it wouldn't come off. had to have a huge 780 ft-lb impact wrench to get it. and you have the added problem of it being under so much torque the wheel wants to spin...even with the breaks on and the wheel on the ground - the wheel will actually turn.

Im not going to remove the giant nut on the end of the CV. I'm just getting the suspension down so I can free the CV from the transmission. THe passenger side was fine, but the drivers side is giving me hell. I'm going to wait until I'm not alone, that way if I slip and bust my teeth out and become unconscious, I'll have someone to drive me to the hospital.

 

I've also been trying to pipes and cheater bars. Been trying everything, really. Theyare stuck and may have to be cut off.

you didn't disconnect the top strut mount bolts did you - the nuts in the engine bay? if you disconnect those the strut will have too much give to it and "bounce" rather than actually transfer the load to the bolt you're trying to remove.

 

That's really bizarre they're that tight, i've had some rusted out northeastern crap baskets and i've never had a problem with those.

I can almost gaurantee my tools would get those off, might be a good time to invest in a better tool?

I can almost gaurantee my tools would get those off, might be a good time to invest in a better tool?

 

If I bought new tools, they would be the same quality as these. These are great tools. They've done many headgaskets and clutch replacements, and an engine rebuilt.

Sorry, I wasn't saying you had low quality tools, just not the right ones. You're not getting enough leverage to knock those bolts loose. The right tool will get them off or shear the bolt, then you just knock it out and put a new one in! Much simpler than grinding/cutting it off.

 

I'm assuming you know that you have to hold one side in place while loosening the bolts otherwise they'll juts turn in place and never come loose?

 

I'm assuming you know that you have to hold one side in place while loosening the bolts otherwise they'll juts turn in place and never come loose?

 

Yes. Right now my goal is to break it free so it can spin. Once that's accomplished, I usually hold the nut with an open ended wrench and then use a socket for the other side.

 

I had to take a break. I'm getting a migraine and getting really fatigued. These bolts are draining my energy.

2 thoughts,

 

soak it, soak it, soak it, soak it, soak it, soak it, with pb blaster.

 

make sure you are going in the right direction, if you were pushing down on the first side you have to lift up on the second side, or vice versa.