'99 Forester, 145K miles

 

I just discovered that I have a leaky low side valve -- could hear it hissing when I unscrewed the cap.

 

Rather than investing in one of those nifty tool kits that allows you to replace the valve core without losing any refrigerant, I plan to have the system evacuated and then doing the remainder of the job myself. I have a vacuum pump and a manifold gauge set.

 

I'll replace the high side valve core, too, while I'm at it. My only question is whether I should go ahead and replace all the o-rings (I counted 8 total) or only those that tend to fail.

 

If the latter, then which ones should I replace?

It might just be loose. Will a regular valve-core tool fit?

 

A quick tap on the end of the valve to let a small bit of gas out might clear the valve, if it's a bit of crud holding it open.

 

Dave

I have only a tool for tire valve cores. I need to get one with longer reach for AC systems to see if I can tighten it.

 

I had already tried clearing the valve as you suggested but still heard the hissing. At this point, the cap is the only thing slowing down the leak.

Get a section of small tubing and cut a notch in the end of it. Instant valve core tool. I've had several of those that were just loose, a little twist and the leak stopped.

Yeah the valve core stem has an oring at the base. Since those areas are clean and free of debris/water/etc, just snug it up a tad and you likely won't have a leak anymore.

 

If you end up doing the whole gig, the ones at the compressor are the most likely to leak in my experience.

Thanks for the good advice guys. I had just purchased the vacuum pump and manifold gauge set to do a conversion on my old Jeep and was perhaps too anxious use them on the Subaru as well. At least I can use the gauge set to recharge the system

 

Get a section of small tubing and cut a notch in the end of it. Instant valve core tool. I've had several of those that were just loose, a little twist and the leak stopped.

 

That's brilliant. I was thinking about fashioning a tool but didn't think I had anything that would work. Thanks to you, I just made my own with an old ball point pen.

 

My wife is out of town with the Subaru at the moment, but I'll tighten up the valve core this weekend. I'll let you know how things turn out.

Edited July 15, 200916 yr by hohieu
clarity

Update:

 

I tried loosening and tightening the valve core and also clearing out the valve several times, but I still have a leaky hiss.

 

I guess this means I'll have to replace the valve core. Now the question is: what kind of valve cores do I need? The ones that will work on my jeep are the same as tire valve cores, except with teflon seals.

 

I haven't yet removed it, but the ones on my 99 Forester are different. They seem to have a smaller body and a longer top part (the part that's used to tighten the valve core).

 

Do I need to get different ones for the Subaru and where might be a good source?

i've always just removed them and taken them in to match them up but i have extra parts and cars which makes it easy. the local auto parts stores typically have better help and parts selection over the "national" places, but almost anywhere probably has valve core stems.

wonder what an internet search would give or if Subaru carries this stuff/info on it? might want to give them a ring and see?

Alright, thanks Gary. I'll check out the local Napa.

it's been awhile but i think one time the high and low pressure side valve core stems may have been different, so be aware of that possibility too.

Update:

Now the question is: what kind of valve cores do I need? The ones that will work on my jeep are the same as tire valve cores, except with teflon seals.

The valve cores are JRE ("Japan Refrigeration Engineers" ?) type. A place like NAPA or Carquest should have them.

Thanks, fellas. From the topside view, the high side and low side valve cores appear to be the same on my car. After I have the original fill recovered, I'll also replace all the o-rings while I have the system open.

 

I'll check back in after it's all finished.

Sorry, it's "JRA", not "JRE".

My punishment will be driving a Camero.

The parts counter guy at my local Napa said he didn't have them. They list a whole seal & cap kit with all the o-rings, but I already have the o-rings. I wound getting 4 of them on ebay for around $11 shipped.

 

When they arrive, I'll have the old stuff captured and then reseal, evacuate, and recharge the system. I'll check back after I'm finished.

Just a quick update. The new JRA valves I purchased are brass whereas the OEM ones are steel. In any case, I hope they hold up.

 

I considered replacing all the o-rings but stopped after doing the two at the compressor. After just having finished flushing and replacing all the o-rings for the A/C retrofit on my '91 Cherokee, I didn't feel like busting out the torch again for the discharge hose connection at the condenser.

 

Thanks for all your help.